STANDARD 

PAPER-BAG 

COOKERY 


EMMA 
PADDOCK. 
TELFORD 


STANDARD 
PAPER-BAG  COOKERY 

By  EMMA  PADDOCK  TELFORD 
ADAPTED  TO  THE  NEEDS  OF  AMERICAN  HOUSEWIVES 

Now  good  digestion  wait  on  appetite,  and  health  on  both, 

Macbeth  III,  4. 


STANDARD 

PAPER-BAG 

COOKERY 


BY 

EMMA  PADDOCK  TELFORD 

Household  Editor  of 
The  Delineator,  New  Ideas,  and  The  Designer 


NEW  YORK 
CUPPLES  &  LEON  COMPANY 


COPYRIGHT,  1912,  BY 
CUPPLES  &  LEON  COMPANY 


':"£       "•/::.'?  J 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  FOREWORD  AND  INTRODUCTION    ...  7 

II.  WHAT  Is  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY    ....  9 

III.  GENERAL    DIRECTIONS     .....  12 

IV.  TIME  TABLE ,;  16 

V.  APPETIZERS  AND  RELISHES     ....  18 

VI.  SOUP  ACCESSORIES 23 

VII.  SHELL  FISH 25 

VIII.  FISH SI 

IX.  FISH  SAUCE 42 

X.  POULTRY  AND  GAME  .      .      .      .      „      .  47 

XI.  BEEF 61 

XII.  LAMB  AND  MUTTON 67 

XIII.  PORK  IN  VARIED  FORMS 70 

XIV.  VEAL 74 

XV.  SAUCES  AND  GRAVIES 78 

XVI.  RECOOKED   DISHES 83 

XVII.  CHEESE  AND  EGG  DISHES       ....  87 

XVIII.  VEGETABLES  90 


405365 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XIX.  WARM  BREADS,  BISCUITS,  MUFFINS,  ETC.  101 

XX.  CAKES     . >     .     .  104 

XXI.  FRUITS    >, 112 

XXII.  PASTRY  w     .........  116 

XXIII.  SHORT  CAKES 123 

XXIV.  PAPER  BAG  MENUS       ....      .     .  133 

XXV.  A  FEW  OF  THE  EASIEST  DISHES  FOR  BE-.  . . . 

GINNERS .  145 

INDEX 147 


FOREWORD 


IN  giving  this  little  book  to  the  public,  there  has  been 
in  mind  one  thing — practicability. 

The  endeavor  has  been  to  make  the  directions  for 
"  Paper-bag  Cookery  "  so  clear  and  concise  that  even 
the  inexperienced  housekeeper  may  not  be  deterred  from 
trying  this  new-old  way  of  cooking  foods  delicately, 
digestibly,  economically. 

No  one  is  advised  to  try  dishes — as  for  instance  soups, 
omelettes,  macaroni  and  kin, — and  many  desserts  that 
may  better  be  done  by  other  methods. 

Neither  has  the  author  called  for  strange  and  divers 
seasonings  and  materials  that  are  only  to  be  found  in 
the  kitchens  of  the  mighty  and  their  attendant  chefs. 

For  the  very  large  family  or  boarding  house,  pots  and 
pans  need  still  be  called  upon  ;  but  for  the  small  family, 
for  the  woman  who  does  her  own  work  and  wishes  to 
minimize  labor,  or  for  the  epicurean  but  frugal  housewife 
who  looks  personally  after  the  details  of  her  own  little 
establishment,  this  paper-bag  cookery  is  commended.  If 
this  little  volume  points  the  easiest  way  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  nice  dishes  with  a  modicum  of  labor  and  a  saving 
of  time  and  money,  it  is  all  that  its  author  and  compiler 
asks. 


CHAPTER  I. 
WHAT  IS  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY? 

THE  principles  contained  in  Paper-bag  Cookery  are 
not  new.  Woodsmen  and  hunters  have  known  for  ages 
that  if  they  wanted  fish  or  game  done  to  a  turn,  a  jacket 
of  clay  outside  the  meat  which  was  protected  from  soil 
by  leaves  or  corn  husks,  gave,  on  removing  the  clay  case, 
the  very  quintessence  of  delicate,  savory  cookery. 

Now  within  the  last  two  years,  a  series  of  experiments 
has  resulted  in  the  perfecting  of  a  system  of  Paper-bag 
Cookery  that  revolutionizes  the  old  time  kitchen  drudg- 
ery with  its  unending  round  of  greasy  pots  and  pans  to 
be  taken  into  account. 

The  advantages  of  this  method  of  cooking  are  mani- 
fold. They  may  be  epitomized  thus : 

I.  It  makes  food  more  savory  and  nutritious. 

II.  It  is  sanitary.    No  dust  can  reach  the  article  be- 
ing cooked  and,  the  cooking  accomplished,  the  bag  can 
be  thrown  into  the  stove  or  kitchen  scrap  basket  with  no 
temptation  for  a  lazy  maid  to  tuck  away  a  greasy  pan  in 
the   dish   closet   for   the   delectation   of     "  germs "    or 
roaches. 

III.  It  is  economical.    Not  only  does  it  save  the  time 
and  strength  of  the  housewife  with  no    aftermath    of 
dirty  cooking  dishes  to  be  washed,  but  it  prevents  the 
shrinkage  of  meats   as    caused    by    ordinary    cookery. 
Nothing  is  lost,  because  there  is  no  evaporation;  careful 
experiments  prove  that  the  weight    of   the  cooked  food 
tallies  almost  exactly  with  the  weight  of  the  raw.    There 


10 


BAG  COOKERY 

$l,  some  claiming  as  high  as  40 
per  cent.,  owing  to'  the  less  time  required  in  Paper-bag 
Cookery.  While  this  may  be  a  generous  estimate  it  is 
certain  that  Paper-bag  Cookery  takes  on  the  average, 
one-third  less  time  than  other  cooking. 

IV.  With  ordinary  care  there  is  no  danger  of  food 
burning,  and  no  deterioration  in  flavor  if  left  in  the  bag 
some  little  time  before  serving. 

V.  It  is  odorless;  a  great   thing,    this,  for  the  flat- 
dweller  who  has  to  cook  in  restricted  quarters,    taking 
care  always  that  cooking  odors  do    not    permeate    the 
house. 

VI.  Its  price  is  not  prohibitive.     Indeed,  it  is  most 
reasonable. 

Paper-bag  Cookery  calls  for  no  big  outlay  of  money, 
no  patent  stove  oven,  no  complex  apparatus  or  appli- 
ances. All  that  is  necessary  is  an  oven  of  any  sort  —  • 
coal,  gas,  electric,  wood  or  oil  —  a  broiler,  a  paper  bag 
specially  and  sanitarily  prepared,  —  grease  proof  and 
waterproof,  —  a  wood  cookery  dish  if  the  food  contains 
liquid  or  a  number  of  separate  ingredients,  and  some- 
thing to  cook  therein.  Another  convenience  are  the  wire 
clips  for  fastening  the  mouth  and  corners  of  the  bag, 
which  can  be  purchased  wherever  the  bags  are  sold. 

THE   KIND    OF   PAPER   BAG   TO   USE. 

While  a  sheet  of  heavy  foolscap  paper  made  into  a 
bag  serves  for  the  cooking  of  a  single  chop  —  it  is  self- 
evident  that  for  larger  proportions,  larger  bags  and 
bags  from  strong,  absolutely  sanitary  paper  must  be 
used.  While  there  are  bags  and  bags  now  upon  the 
market,  not  all  fulfill  these  essential  conditions.  After 
much  experimenting,  the  Continental  Paper  Bag  Co,  of 
Rumford,  Maine,  and  New  York  City,  has  succeeded  in 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   11 

producing  the  ideal  bag  which  may  now  be  found  in 
varying  sizes,  at  all  the  large  house-furnishing  stores, 
grocers,  butchers,  etc.,  or  the  bags  may  be  ordered  direct 
from  headquarters.  These  bags  are  put  up  in  bulk  in 
bundle  lots,  or  in  sealed  packages  of  assorted  sizes. 
Each  of  the  sealed  packages  contains  thirty  bags  of  as- 
sorted sizes  with  the  necessary  clips  and  a  small  book  of 
recipes  with  full  directions.  Retail  price  25  cents  a 
package — fifty  packages  to  a  shipping  bundle. 

In  order  to  make  paper  bag  cookery  of  the  greatest 
value  to  housewives,  both  as  regards  cleanliness  and 
ease  of  operation,  to  say  nothing  of  the  many  cases 
where  the  flavor  of  the  food  is  actually  improved,  the 
author  heartily  recommends  the  use  of  specially  pre- 
pared wood  cookery  dishes.  These  dishes  are  most  in- 
expensive, varying  in  price  from  about  thirty  for  ten 
cents  to  six  for  ten  cents,  depending  upon  size.  They 
can  be  purchased  wherever  the  paper  bags  are  sold, — 
department  stores,  house  furnishing  stores,  grocery 
stores,  etc.,  etc.,  or  may  be  obtained  direct  from  the 
Oval  Wood  Dish  Company,  Delta,  Ohio.  The  food  is 
placed  in  the  wood  cookery  dish  and  the  dish  is  put 
into  the  bag.  The  advantage  lies  in  the  fact  that 
should  the  bag  break,  the  food  and  juices  are  saved 
in  the  dish  and  the  oven  will  not  be  soiled  by  leakage. 
Then  again,  the  food  can  be  removed  from  the  bag  when 
finished  with  greater  ease  than  when  the  dish  is  not 
used.  The  dishes  are  so  cheap  that  they  can  be  thrown 
away  with  the  bag  after  the  food  is  prepared. 


CHAPTER  II. 
GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  USING  THE  BAG. 

I.  SELECT  a  bag  that  fits   the   food  to  be   cooked. 
When  a  liquid  is  used  or  a  number  of  ingredients  are 
to  be  cooked  together,  use  a  wood  cookery  dish  which 
holds  the  food  stuffs  together  and  permits  their  ready; 
removal  from  the  bag. 

II.  Brush  over  the  outside  of  the  bag   with   a   little 
water  to  make  it  pliable.     Grease  the  inside    except   in 
the  case  of  vegetables  or  when  water  is  added,  using  for 
this  another  little  flat  brush  (kept  for  this  purpose)  and 
pure  vegetable  oil,  melted  butter  or  drippings.     Apply 
the  brush  with  a  rotary  motion  greasing  the  bottom  first 
and  working  toward  the  top  ;  or  lay  the  bag  flat  on  a 
table,  reach  inside  and  grease  the  lower  side  of  the  bag, 
then  press  the  other  side  against  it  until  both  surfaces 
are  evenly  greased.     The  up-to-date  housewife    who  is 
adopting  the  paper-bag  culinary  cult  has  also  discovered 
that  for  greasing  the  bags,  a  necessary    step,    there  is 
nothing  that  can  take  the  place  of  the  high  grade  vege- 
table oils.    They  are  easily  applied  and  absolutely  taste- 
less and  odorless,  a  great  point,  this,    when    the  bags 
themselves  have  sometimes  been  condemned  as  imparting 
a  foreign  odor  to  foods  cooked  in  them,  when  in  reality  it 
was  the  fault  of  the  special  fat  with  which    they  were 
greased.       Now    place    the    bag    flat    on    the    table, 
seam  side  up  and  lift  the  uppermost  side  while  you  in- 
sert the  article  to  be  cooked.     Press  the  air  out  of  the 
bag,  fold  over  the  corners  and  make  two  folds  of  the 

U 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   13 

mouth  of  the  bag,  fastening  firmly  with  three  or  four 
clips,  or  even  pins.  No  harm  is  done  if  the  two  lower 
corners  of  the  bag  are  folded  and  also  fastened  with  one 
clip  each. 

III.  Now  be  sure  the  oven  heat  is  right.  If  you  are 
using  gas  for  the  cooking,  light  for  five  minutes  before 
the  bag  goes  into  the  oven.  The  average  oven  heat  should 
be  not  less  than  200  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  may  be  250 
degrees.  When  the  bag  is  put  into  the  oven,  the  heat 
must  be  at  once  reduced  to  170  degrees.  An  inex- 
perienced cook  lacking  an  oven  thermometer  can  test  the 
right  degree  of  heat  by  placing  a  bit  of  paper  in  the 
oven  and  noting  the  color  it  assumes.  At  the  end  of  five 
minutes  it  should  be  a  light  golden  brown. 

If  the  heat  is  too  intense  the  bag  will  burst.  Now 
carefully  lay  the  bag  on  the  grid  shelves  or  wire  broilers 
— never  on  solid  shelves,  being  careful  to  place  the  seam 
side  of  the  bag  up. 

This  is  imperative,  as  otherwise  the  juices  of  the 
food  being  cooked  may  cause  the  seam  to  open,  and  dis- 
tribute its  contents  over  the  oven.  Once  placed  in  posi- 
tion, roasts  and  entrees  on  the  lower  shelf,  about  an  inch 
from  the  oven  floor,  fish  on  the  middle  shelf,  and  pastry 
on  the  top  where  heat  is  most  intense, — do  not  move  or 
open  the  bags  until  the  schedule  time  of  their  cooking  is 
accomplished.  In  placing  the  article  to  be  cooked,  take 
care  that  the  bag  does  not  touch  the  sides  of  the  oven  and 
that  it  is  not  too  close  to  the  flames.  When  the  time  limit 
of  cooking  has  expired,  take  up  the  bag  from 
the  shelf  by  drawing  with  the  wires,  not  across 
them,  which  is  apt  to  tear  the  bag  made  ten- 
der by  charring.  Slip  on  to  the  lid  of  a  pot 
or  flat  tin  held  just  beneath  the  grid  and  thence  to  the 
heated  platter.  To  secure  the  gravy,  stick  a  pinhole  in 


14   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

the  bottom  of  the  bag  and  allow  it  to  drain  on  to  the 
platter,  or  serving  dish.  Rip  open  the  bag  from  the  top 
and  throw  the  charred  fragments  away  at  once.  If  to  be 
served  hot,  arrange  at  once  on  a  heated  platter  or  other 
dish,  with  its  appropriate  garnish. 

POINTERS  FOR  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY. 

I.  In  the  case  of  a  coal-heated  oven  with  solid  shelves 
a  wire  broiler  or  "  grid  "  should  be  substituted  as  the  heat 
must  be  allowed  to  circulate  on  all  sides  of  the  bag. 

II.  The  size  of  the  oven  makes  no  difference  but  it 
must  be  kept  clean. 

III.  In  the  case  of  a  fowl  or  joint  see  that  there  are  no 
rough  edges  or  bones  protruding  that  will  be  likely  to 
pierce  the  bag. 

IV.  Do  not  season  the  article  to  be  cooked  too  highly 
as  none  of  the  seasonings  are  dissipated  during  the  cook- 
ing as  is  usually  the  case  in  ordinary  boiling  or  roasting. 

V.  For  cooking  fruit,  grease  the  outside  of  the  bag. 

VI.  In  removing  the  bag  from  the  oven,  draw  with 
the  wires,  not  across  them. 

VII.  To  brown  things  at  the  last  of  the  cooking,  if; 
necessary,  puncture  a  few  holes  in  the  top  of  the  bag. 

VIII.  If  a  bag  breaks  in  the  cooking,  as  it  sometimes 
will  if  the  heat  is  too  intense,  do  not  try  to  remove  the 
article  being  cooked  from  the  bag,  but  slip  the  whole 
into  a  new  well-greased  bag.    The  use  of  two  bags  is  bet- 
ter than  one  when  things  require  long  cooking  or  for 
meats  with  much  fat  or  juicy  dishes.    While  it  may  cost 
a  bit  more,  it  will  save  much  anxiety  lest  the  bag  burst. 

IX.  To  avoid  havingany  chance  drippings  soil  the  oven 
floor,  slip  a  thin  tin  baking  sheet  or  shallow  dripper  un- 
der the  broiler,  letting  it  rest  flat  on  the  bottom  of  the 
oven.    Put  in  a  little  hot  water  and  this  steam  will  keep 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   15 

the  bag  moist  and  do  much  to  discourage  its  breaking. 
Indeed,  in  baking  any  kind  of  fruit  cake,  which  requires 
slow  cooking,  quite  a  little  water  in  the  drip-pan  under- 
neath is  advisable. 

X.  In  baking  pastry    and  cake,    a    few  tiny  holes 
should  be  made  in  the  upper  side  of  the  bag  before  put- 
ting in  the  oven.    This  will  brown  the  surface  of  the  cake 
delicately. 

XI.  Do  not  let  the  bag  touch  the  sides  of  the  oven 
or  the  gas  flames. 

XII.  Wire  trivets  such  as  are  sold  at  house-furnishing 
stores  for  use  in  cooling  bread  and  cakes  will  be  found 
a  great  convenience.     If  a  bag  is  laid  on  a  trivet,  it  can 
then  be  easily  set  in  the  oven  and  as  easily  lifted  out 
when  done. 

XIII.  Never  try  to  take  things  from  the  oven  with 
the  gas  lighted.     Matches  are  cheaper  than  gas,  if  the 
oven  has  to  be  relighted,  and  burned  fingers  or    wrists 
are  more  costly  than  many  matches. 

XIV.  Use  care  in  opening  the  oven.    A  draught  from 
an  open  door  or  window  might  cause  the  gas  flame  to 
ignite  the  bag. 

XV.  Until  taught  by  experience,  follow  the  time  table 
as  given  in  the  cookery  book. 


CHAPTER  III. 
TIME  TABLE. 

As  a  general  rule  less  time  is  required  for  Paper-bag 
Cookery  than  any  other  way.  While  this  approximate 
time  table  is  at  your  service,  experience  will  enable  you 
to  modify  the  figures  to  suit  your  own  stove  and  your 
family's  predilections  as  to  having  things  rare  or  well 

done. 

FISH. 

lib 15  minutes 

3  Ibs 30  minutes 

6  Ibs 50  minutes 

ROASTS. 

Beef,  3  Ibs 45  minutes 

Add  5  minutes  for  each  additional  pound. 

Veal,  5  Ibs 1  hour  and  a  half. 

Add  7  minutes  for  each  additional  pound. 

Pork,  3  Ibs 50  minutes 

Add  6  minutes  for  each  additional  pound. 

Mutton,  leg  8  pounds An  hour  and  a  half 

Mutton,  shoulder  5  pounds 45  minutes 

Mutton,  chops 12  minutes 

Mutton,  cutlets 8  minutes 

Lamb,  leg  7  Ibs 1%  hours. 

Lamb,  shoulder 50  minutes 

Lamb,  chops 10  minutes 

Sausages 8  minutes 

Sliced  Bacon 6  minutes 

POULTRY. 

Turkey  (stuffed)  15  Ibs 2%  hours 

Turkey  (not  stuffed)  15  Ibs 2  hours 

Goose  (ordinary  size) 2  hours 

Goose  (green) iy2  hours 

Duck  (old) 1  hour 

16 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   17 

Duck  (young) 35  minutes 

Guinea,  6  Ibs 1  hour  and  40  minutes 

Chicken  (large) 1  hour  and  a  half 

Chicken  (young) 45  minutes 

Quail  and  other  small  birds 15  minutes 

Stews  (meat)  medium  sized 1%  or  two  hours 

Potatoes  (Baked) 35  minutes 

Sweet  (ten  minutes  less  than  by  the  other  methods  of 
cookery). 

TABLE  OF  MEASUREMENTS. 

4  teaspoonfuls  of  liquid 1  tablespoonf ul 

4  tablespoonf uls  of  liquid y2  gill  or  %  cupful 

1  tablespoonful  of  liquid %  ounce 

1  pint  of  liquid 1  pound 

2  gills  of  liquid 1  cupful  or  %  pint 

1  kitchen  cupful y2  pint 

1  quart  sifted  pastry  flour 1  pound 

4  cupfuls  sifted  pastry  flour 1  quart  or  1  pound 

2  rounded  tablespoonf  uls  of  flour 1  ounce 

1  rounded  tablespoonful  granulated  sugar..  1  ounce 

2  rounded  tablespoonf  uls  of  ground  spice.  .1  ounce 
1  heaping  tablespoonful  powdered  sugar. .  1  ounce 

3  cupfuls  cornmeal 1  pound 

1  cupful  butter y2  pound 

1  pint  butter 1  pound 

1  tablespoonful  butter 1  ounce 

Butter  size  of  an  egg 2  ounces 

10  eggs  1  pound 

1  solid  pint  chopped  meat 1  pound 

2  cupfuls  granulated  sugar 1  pound 

1  pint  brown  sugar 7  ounces 

2y2  cups  powdered  sugar 1  pound 

1  cupful  stemmed  raisins 6  ounces 

1  cupful  rice %  pound 

1  cupful  stemmed  raisins 6  ounces 

1  cupful  cleaned  and  dried  currants 6  ounces 

1  cupful  grated  bread  crumbs 2  ounces 

8  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 1  cupful 

8  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 1  cupful 

8  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 1  cupful 

1  common  tumbler 1  cupful 

3  tablespoonfuls  grated  chocolate 1  ounce 

4  gills    1  pint 

2  pints  1  quart 

4  quarts     1  gallon 


CHAPTER  IV. 
APPETIZERS  AND  RELISHES. 

APPETIZERS  play  a  very  important  part  now-a-days  in 
all  up-to-date  establishments  and  even  in  modest  homes 
where  they  are  not  only  employed  as  introductory  to  the 
course  dinner,  but  as  a  pleasing  accessory  to  the  after- 
noon tea  service.  They  are  supposed  to  whet  the  appe- 
tite for  the  heavier  dishes  that  follow.  In  Europe  one 
always  finds  them.  They  are  considered  very  "smart " 
and  as  they  are  but  little  trouble  to  prepare  in  Paper 
bag  cookery,  when  one  has  learned  the  trick,  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  hostess  who  aims  to  keep  abreast  of  the 
times  should  not  make  frequent  use  of  them.  At  very 
formal  affairs,  they  are  placed  on  the  service  plates  after 
the  guests  are  seated,  but  usually  they  are  at  each  place 
when  the  meal  is  announced.  Canapes  (which  means 
"  toast  cushions  "  or  bouchees,  small  patties  or  "  bites  ") 
with  their  accompanying  spread  of  appetizing  fish, 
cheese  or  potted  meats,  are  newer  than  the  cocktails  of 
oyster,  clam  or  grape-fruit  that  used  to  lead  the  feast. 

Bouchee  Cases. — These  are  usually  made  from  pas- 
try by  covering  tiny  but  deep  patty  pans  with  rich  pas- 
try, cutting  narrow  strips  to  make  the  rim  for  the  cup. 
Put  on  a  tin  in  a  buttered  bag  and  bake.  When  cool 
they  will  slip  from  the  pan.  They  may  be  made  the  day 
before  using  if  preferred. 

Another  way  of  preparing  them  is  to  cut  good  sized 
circles  of  bread;  then  with  a  smaller  cutter,  scrape  out 

18 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   19 

a  hollow,  spread  with  butter,  put  in  the  bag  and  bake  ten 
minutes  until  browned.  When  ready  to  serve,  fill  with 
any  mixture  desired  and  serve  hot  or  cold  as  appetizers 
or  with  the  salad  course. 

Bonne  Bouchee. —  Make  the  pastry  cases  and  when 
ready  to  serve  fill  with  pate-de-foie  gras,  made  soft  with 
whipped  cream,  seasoned  with  salt,  cayenne  or  paprika. 
Decorate  each  one  with  an  olive  or  bit  of  aspic  jelly. 

Bouchees  of  Caviare,  Olives  and  Mayonnaise.-— 
Spread  circles  or  dominoes  of  bread  with  a  thin  layer  of 
caviare.  In  the  center  place  a  pitted  olive,  green  or 
black,  with  its  pit  removed  and  the  cavity  filled  with 
minced  red  peppers.  Hold  the  olive  in  place  with  a  few 
drops  of  mayonnaise,  red  or  the  usual  yellow,  and  put 
tiny  dots  of  the  same  about  the  border. 

Bouchees  of  Sardines. —  Pound  one  or  two  boned 
sardines  in  a  mortar,  together  with  a  small  quantity  of 
cheese.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  chili  vinegar,  and 
add,  if  you  like,  a  few  chopped  oysters.  Spread  this 
mixture  on  circles  of  "  bagged  "  bread  about  the  size  of 
a  silver  dollar,  and  add  a  garnish  of  hard-boiled  yoke  of 
egg,  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  a  little  finely  minced 
parsley. 

Bouchees  of  Sausage  or  Tongue. —  Cover  circles  of 
"  bagged  "  bread  with  red  stars  cut  from  boiled  tongue 
or  the  red  imported  sausages.  Lay  on  the  top  of  each 
star,  log  cabin  fashion,  several  tiny  lengths  of  pickled 
gherkins  and  crown  with  a  sprig  of  water-cress. 

The  Making  of  Canapes. — Bread  two  days  old  is 
best  for  the  foundation.  Trim  free  from  crusts,  then  cut 
in  uniform  oblongs,  diamonds,  triangles,  circles  or 
fingers  as  desired,  using  for  this  the  cutters  that  come 


20   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

on  purpose.  Butter  lightly,  spread  with  the  prepared 
mixture  and  slip  into  the  well-greased  paper-bag  for  five 
minutes  just  long  enough  to  brown  the  toast  delicately 
and  heat  the  savory. 

Anchovy  Canapes. — Cut  white  bread  in  oblong 
strips,  spread  lightly  with  butter,  and  anchovy  paste, 
and  tuck  into  the  buttered  bag.  Bake  five  minutes,  then 
serve  hot,  adding,  if  liked,  to  each  canape  two  strips  of 
boneless  anchovy  laid  across  it  diagonally  and  a  squeeze 
of  lemon  juice. 

Caviare  Canapes. — Cut  bread  in  circles  and  spread 
with  a  mixture  of  three  tablespoonfuls  caviare  paste,  one 
teaspoonful  lemon  juice,  one  half  teaspoonful  paprika, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  a  half  cupful  minced] 
cress.  Pop  in  the  buttered  bag  and  cook  five  minutes. 

Hot  Cheese  Canapes. —  Take  circles  or  strips  of 
Vienna  bread,  spread  lightly  with  butter,  grate  a  little 
cheese  over  them,  sprinkle  on  top  a  little  cayenne  pepper 
and  salt  and  put  in  bag.  Cook  five  minutes. 

Cheese  and  Cracker  Canapes. — Split  Boston  crack- 
ers and  soak  ten  minutes  in  cold  water.  Lift  out 
carefully  and  place  on  a  well-buttered  baking  tin.  Drop 
on  each  a  generous  bit  of  butter,  a  sprinkling  of  grated 
Parmesan  or  American  cheese  and  a  dusting  of 
paprika.  Put  in  the  bag,  seal  and  bake  fifteen  minutes 
in  a  hot  oven. 

Cheese  Toast  Sandwiches. — Cut  slices  of  white 
bread  rather  thicker  than  for  sandwiches.  Chop  fine 
one  cupful  of  American  cheese  and  two  green  peppers 
with  the  seeds  removed.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  work  to  a  paste.  Spread  one  slice  of  bread  with 
butter  and  its  mate  with  creamed  filling.  Press  firmly 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   21 

together,  take  off  the  crusts,  and  put  into  the  buttered 
bag.    Bake  five  minutes  and  serve  very  hot. 

Cracker  Crisps.—  Dip  oyster  crackers  or  dinner  bis- 
cuits in  melted  butter,  sprinkle  with  Parmesan  cheese, 
and  put  in  a  paper  bag.  Bake  ten  minutes. 

Deviled  Crackers. —  Mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  cheese,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  dry  mustard,  one 
teaspoon  of  anchovy  paste,  a  dash  of  cayenne  and  a  pinch 
of  butter.  Spread  over  the  crackers  and  put  in  bag  in  a 
hot  oven  to  brown. 

Diables  a  Cheval.  —  Have  ready  large  French 
prunes  that  have  been  soaked  twenty-four  hours  in  water, 
then  cooked  and  the  pits  removed.  Insert  almonds  in 
the  cavity  left  by  the  pit.  Toss  in  olive  oil  or  refined 
cotton  seed  oil  or  roll  in  thin  slices  of  bacon,  fastened 
with  a  tooth  pick,  put  in  the  bag,  seal  and  cook  eight 
minutes.  Serve  piping  hot. 

NUT   APPETIZERS. 

Salted  Almonds. —  Shell  as  many  nice  large  nuts  as 
desired.  The  Jordan  nuts  are  best,  but  the  paper-shelled 
ones  will  answer.  Put  into  a  bowl  and  cover  with  boil- 
ing water.  Spread  a  towel  over  the  bowl  to  retain  the 
steam  and  let  them  stand  five  minutes.  Pour  off  the 
water  and  replace  with  cold,  then  rub  off  the  brown 
skins  between  thumb  and  forefinger.  Shake  in  a 
colander  until  dry,  then  put  in  a  shallow  dish  adding  for 
each  cupful  of  nuts,  one  tablespoonful  melted  butter, 
olive  or  refined  cotton  seed  oil  (preferably  either  of  the 
oils,  which  will  give  the  richer  glaze).  Stir  well  to- 
gether. Let  stand  an  hour,  then  put  into  the  well 
greased  paper  bag,  first  sprinkling  with  dry  salt,  allow- 


22   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

ing  one  tablespoonful  to  each  cupful  of  nuts.  Fasten  and 
roast  ten  minutes,  shaking  the  bag  occasionally.  You  can 
do  this  by  the  aid  of  two  trivets. 

Deviled  Almonds. — To  devil  them,  add  a  suspicion 
of  cayenne  pepper  with  the  salt. 

Roasted  Chestnuts.— Make  a  cross  on  the  shell  of 
the  nut  using  a  sharp    penknife.      Put    in    the    oiled 
bag,  dredge  lightly  with  salt,  and  let  cook  twenty  min- 
utes giving  an  occasional  shake. 

Salted  Chestnuts.—  Throw  into  boiling  water  as 
many  shelled  nuts  as  desired.  Blanch  and  dry,  patting 
with  a  soft  towel.  Then  add  olive  oil  or  melted  butter  to 
the  nuts,  allowing  a  teaspoonful  to  each  cup  of  nuts  and 
let  them  remain  in  oil  half  an  hour.  Dredge  with  salt,  a 
heaping  teaspoonful  to  each  cup,  then  put  in  oiled 
bag  and  let  them  brown  in  the  oven  from  10  to  15  min- 
utes, shaking  the  bag  frequently  to  keep  them  from 
scorching  and  make  them  an  even  brown.  These  should 
be  crisp  and  delicate.  To  devil  them,  add  a  suspicion  of 
cayenne  with  the  salt.  Serve  at  dinner  after  the 
cheese. 

Deviled  Chestnuts. — Shell  and  blanch  a  quart  of 
chestnuts.  Dry  thoroughly,  then  brown  in  paper  bag  in 
hot  olive  oil  or  butter.  Have  ready  a  mixture  composed 
of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mixed  pickle,  one 
tablespoonful  Worcestershire  sauce,  one  quarter  tea- 
spoonful  salt  and  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Turn  this  over  the 
hot  nuts,  and  serve  at  once. 


CHAPTER  V. 
SOUP  ACCESSORIES. 

Bread  Sticks. — IN  preparing  these,  any  bread  dough 
may  be  used,  though  that  with  shortening  is  preferred. 
After  it  is  kneaded  enough  to  be  elastic,  cut  into  pieces 
half  the  size  of  an  egg,  then  roll  on  the  molding  board 
into  a  stick  the  size  of  a  pencil  and  about  a  foot  long. 
Lay  these  strips  in  the  well-greased  paper  bag,  let 
them  rise  a  little  before  putting  in  the  oven,  then  fasten 
the  bag  and  bake  with  a  moderate  heat,  so  they  will  dry 
without  much  browning. 

Croutons  Toasted. —  Slice  bread  that  is  stale  but  not 
too  dry,  into  pieces  about  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  these 
slices  in  uniform  cubes  and  put  in  a  well-greased  bag. 
Shake  occasionally  and  let  toast  for  ten  minutes. 

Crisped  Crackers. —  Split  butter  crackers  and  spread 
with  butter.  Put  into  the  paper  bag  buttered  side  up 
and  bake  ten  minutes.  These  are  delicious  with  vege- 
table soups  and  in  fish  chowder  and  oyster  stew. 

Egg  Balls. — Drop  the  yolk  of  four  eggs  into  a  cup 
and  set  in  a  pan  of  water  over  the  fire.  When  the 
yolks  are  cooked  hard  and  mealy,  pound  to  a  paste  and 
season  with  an  even  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  cay- 
enne or  a  more  liberal  sprinkling  of  paprika.  Mould  in- 
to balls  the  size  of  grapes,  by  mixing  the  yolk  of  a  raw 
egg  with  the  cooked  paste,  rolling  lightly  in  the  white  of 


24   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

an  egg,  then  in  flour.     Tuck  into  a  small  buttered  bag, 
fasten,  and  set  in  oven  for  five  minutes  to  become  firm. 

Forcemeat  Balls  or  Quenelles. —  Chop  very  fine 
any  cold  meat  you  have  on  hand,  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  a  little  onion  juice.  For 
one  cupful  of  the  prepared  meat,  beat  one  egg  until 
light,  stir  in  with  hashed  meat  and  add  just  enough  flour 
to  make  cohesive.  Roll  in  the  hands  to  the  size  of  hick- 
ory nuts,  put  in  paper  bag  and  cook  ten  minutes. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
SHELL  FISH. 

FISH  and  the  paper  bag  method  of  cooking,  go  hand 
and  glove.  The  thing  that  every  housewife  hates  most, 
particularly  in  a  small  apartment,  or  in  the  Winter  when 
it  is  difficult  to  get  the  house  thoroughly  aired,  is  the 
pervasive  odor  that  announces  to  every  one  in  the  house 
or  block  just  what  you  are  going  to  have  for  dinner. 
Bagged,  the  odor  is  so  minimized  as  to  be  entirely  inof- 
fensive. Ten  minutes  airing  after  the  bag  is  opened  will 
be  quite  sufficient  to  dissipate  every  particle  of  odor. 
Furthermore,  the  fish  itself  is  much  more  delicate  and 
digestible  with  all  the  flavor  of  fish  and  seasoning  held 
in  and  united  in  a  harmonious  whole.  Of  course,  this 
presupposes  a  fresh  fish  to  start  with,  or  one  just  out  of 
cold  storage,  before  it  has  had  a  chance  to  thaw  and  de- 
velope  ptomaines.  In  buying  fish,  look  at  the  eyes  and 
flesh.  Fish  should  be  firm  to  the  touch.  If  pressed  by  the 
finger  the  flesh  should  rise  instantly.  There  should  be 
no  impression  left.  If  fish  is  fresh  the  eyes  are  bright 
and  the  gills  red  and  the  scales  not  easily  rubbed  off. 
Never  lay  fish  directly  on  artificial  ice,  say  the  fishermen, 
as  the  amonnia  used  in  the  freezing  affects  them  injuri- 
ously. Shell  fish  are  not  so  apt  to  spoil  as  the  other  fish. 

The  wood  cookery  dishes  will  be  found  of  great  value 
in  cooking  all  kinds  of  fish  in  paper  bags.  In  many 
cases  the  flavor  of  the  fish  is  improved  and  the  fish  can 

25 


26   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

always  be  taken  from  the  bag  with  ease  and  served 
whole  if  desired. 

Clam  Pies.— Line  little  tins  or  moulds  with  paste  and 
put  in  a  layer  of  raw  clams  with  a  seasoning  of  butter 
and  pepper.  Dredge  with  flour,  add  a  spoonful  or  two 
of  clam  juice,  cover  with  the  paste,  cut  a  hole  in  the  top, 
brush  with  beaten  egg,  slip  into  the  bag,  fasten  and  bake 
twenty  minutes. 

Roast  Clams. —  Scrub  the  shells  clean  and  slip  in  the 
bag.  As  soon  as  the  shells  open,  remove  carefully  and 
pour  off  the  extra  liquor  in  as  may  small  cups  as  you 
have  persons  to  serve.  Put  a  cup  of  the  juice  to  which  a 
bit  of  butter  and  dusting  of  pepper  has  been  added,  in 
the  center  of  a  soup  dish,  and  arrange  the  clams  around 
it.  With  an  oyster  fork,  the  clams  may  then  be  removed 
from  the  shell,  dipped  into  the  liquor  and  eaten.  Serve 
very  hot  with  quarters  of  lemon. 

Crabs,  Soft  and  Hard.— While  soft  shell  crabs  are 
too  expensive  for  the  purse  of  moderate  depth,  the  hard 
shell  crustacean  is  always  in  order  and  greatly  to  be  de- 
sired. Crabs,  like  all  other  shell  fish,  are  best  when 
fresh  from  their  native  waters,  and  the  individual  who 
can  do  his  own  crabbing  and  then  eat  the  fruits  of  his 
labor  with  the  flavor  of  the  sea  still  with  them,  has  noth- 
ing more  to  be  desired  from  a  gastronomic  standpoint. 
In  most  markets  crabs  may  be  found  both  alive  and 
boiled.  If  alive,  keep  them  in  cold  water  until  ready 
to  cook.  If  already  boiled,  use  them  as  soon  as  possible 
as  they  do  not  keep  well  for  more  than  twenty-four 
hours.  When  ready  to  cook  live  crabs,  take  up  on  a 
skimmer,  handling  gingerly  so  as  to  avoid  a  pinch,  and 
drop  into  a  large  kettle  of  boiling  salted  water.  Cook 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   27 

gently  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  a  bright  red,  skim  out, 
and  cool,  twist  off  the  claws,  remove  the  upper  shell  from 
the  under,  scrape  the  spongy  portions  from  the  sides,  re- 
move the  green  portion  and  wash  free  from  sand.  Crack 
the  large  claws  and  remove  the  meat.  If  you  are  to 
serve  the  crab  meat  in  the  shells,  wash  and  dry  as  many 
of  the  upper  ones  as  desired.  These  preliminaries  at- 
tended to,  the  crabs  are  ready  to  use,  in  any  one  of  a 
dozen  different  ways. 

Creamed  Crabs. —  Remove  the  meat  from  a  half 
dozen  hard-shelled  crabs.  Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  finely  chopped  onion  until 
yellow,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  pour  in 
gradually  a  cup  of  cream.  As  soon  as  blended  and 
smooth,  add  the  crab  meat,  salt  and  paprika  to  season, 
a  tiny  grating  of  nutmeg  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry 
wine.  Spread  on  slices  of  toast,  grate  a  little  cheese  on 
top,  put  into  a  bag,  seal,  set  in  the  oven  a  moment  to 
beat  through,  then  serve. 

Crabs  Deviled  a  la  William  Penn.— Boil  hard- 
shelled  crabs,  then  remove  the  under  part  without  break- 
ing the  upper  shell.  Take  out  the  crab  meat,  add  about 
half  the  quantity  of  bread  crumbs  and  some  chopped 
hard  boiled  eggs,  with  salt,  cayenne  and  lemon  juice  to 
season.  Form  into  a  paste  with  a  little  melted  butter 
and  fill  the  shells.  Sift  buttered  crumbs  over  the  top, 
slip  in  the  bag  and  cook  ten  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Crab  Meat  au  Gratin. — Mix  the  meat  from  six 
crabs  with  a  third  the  amount  finely  chopped,  sweet, 
green  peppers.  Add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten  with 
a  half  cup  cream  and  a  little  sherry,  and  toss  in  a  sauce- 
pan until  hot  and  creamy.  Put  the  mixture  into  the 


28       STANDARD    PAPER    BAG    COOJKERY 

cleaned  crab  shells  or  the  little  brown  ramequins, 
sprinkle  with  Parmesan  cheese  and  fine  crumbs;  put  in 
bag  and  crisp  in  a  hot  oven. 

Crab  Flakes  au  Gratin. — Add  to  one  pint  crab  flakes, 
one-half  cupful  cream  sauce,  two  tablespoon fuls  melted 
butter  and  a  quarter  teaspoonful  paprika.  Mix  well  to- 
gether, place  in  a  small  wood  cookery  dish  or  ramequins, 
sprinkle  the  top  with  toast  crumbs  and  a  light  sprinkling 
of  Roman  cheese.  Put  into  bags,  bake  and  serve.  If 
any  be  left  over,  it  makes  a  delicious  salad  served  on 
lettuce  with  mayonnaise. 

Lobster  Chops. — Put  into  a  saucepan  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two  very  heaping  ones  of 
flour.  As  soon  as  melted  and  frothed,  add  one  cupful  of 
hot  milk  or  cream,  and  stir  until  the  mixture  is  smooth 
and  thick.  Season  with  salt  and  paprika,  take  from  the 
fire,  add  two  cups  of  the  lobster,  cut  fine,  mix  well  and 
turn  on  to  a  platter  to  get  as  cold  as  possible.  When 
cold  and  firm,  form  into  balls,  then  flatten  into  chops, 
roll  in  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs  and  set  away  on  the 
ice  until  ready  to  cook.  Put  in  buttered  paper  bag  and 
cook  ten  minutes.  When  ready  to  serve,  tuck  one  of  the 
little  claws  in  the  small  end  to  simulate  a  chop  bone  and 
garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley.  For  Sunday  night  sup- 
per these  chops  may  be  cooked  early  in  the  day,  then 
simply  re-bagged  and  heated  in  the  oven  for  the  meal. 

Coquilles  of  Lobster. — Cook  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely  chopped  onion  in  a  tablespoonful  butter  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Have  ready  a  cream  sauce  made  by  melting  to- 
gether over  the  fire  a  tablespoonful  each  of  butter  and 
flour,  then  thinning  with  a  cupful  of  white  stock  that  has 
been  cooked  with  a  small  bouquet  of  sweet  herbs.  Salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  if  you  like  add  half  a  cupful 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   29 

chopped  mushrooms  and  their  liquor.  Add  to  the  lightly 
browned  onions  two  cupfuls  finely  cut  lobster  meat,  a 
tablespoonful  minced  parsley,  one  cupful  of  the  made 
sauce  and  salt  and  paprika.  Cook  together  ten  minutes, 
then  put  the  mixture  into  the  shells,  pour  a  little  of  the 
sauce  over  each,  sprinkle  with  buttered  bread  crumbs, 
bag,  and  bake  about  ten  minutes  or  until  they  are 
browned. 

Lobster  in  Shells. — Cut  the  meat  from  two  cans  of 
lobster  into  small  pieces.  Sprinkle  a  few  bread  crumbs 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper  over  it.  Then  put  in  shells. 
On  each  shell  put  a  good  sized  lump  of  butter,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  wine,  some  more  salt  and  pepper  and  some 
more  bread  crumbs.  Put  prepared  shells  in  a  paper  bag, 
put  in  a  hot  oven  and  cook  ten  minutes. 

Mussels  au  Gratin. — Remove  and  clean  the  mussels, 
straining  all  the  liquor  thoroughly.  Then  make  this 
sauce  :  Fry  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  onions  in 
butter  for  a  few  minutes,  but  do  not  let  them  brown  ; 
add  about  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and,  while  the  onions 
are  blending,  add  the  liquor  of  the  mussels,  stirring  it  in 
slowly.  Cook  this  mixture  for  a  few  minutes;  then  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  the  same  quantity  of  chopped 
parsley  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Butter  a  shallow 
earthen  or  wooden  baking  dish;  in  the  bottom  spread  a 
layer  of  the  sauce,  lay  the  mussels  on  top  of  it  and  cover 
them  with  the  balance  of  the  sauce.  Over  all  this  spread 
a  thin  coating  of  breadcrumbs;  butter  and  bake  in  bag 
until  they  have  browned.  Serve  in  the  same  dish  in 
which  they  were  baked. 

Boxed  Oysters  (Virginia  Style). —     Take     crusty 
rolls  cut  off  the  top  and  scoop  out  the  hearts  leaving  them 


30      STANDARD    PAPER   BAG   COOKERY, 

each  like  a  box.  Fill  the  space  with  oysters,  seasoning 
with  sault,  pepper  and  butter  and  sprinkling  over  them 
some  of  the  crumb  of  the  roll  that  you  have  removed.  Put 
bits  of  butter  on  top,  then  replace  the  cover.  Set  the  rolls 
in  the  buttered  bag  and  pour  the  strained  oyster  liquor 
over  them.  Put  into  a  hot  oven  and  bake  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Serve  hot.  Lemon  juice  or  a  little  mace  is  some- 
times used  for  seasoning  the  oysters. 

Spindled  Oysters  and  Bacon. —  For  two  dozen 
large  oysters  have  two  dozen  thin  slices  bacon,  and  a  half 
dozen  slices  crisp  toast.  Have  ready  a  half  dozen  slen- 
der steel  skewers.  Fill  these  skewers  with  alternate 
slices  of  bacon  and  oysters,  running  the  skewer  cross- 
wise through  the  eye  of  the  oyster  and  threading  the 
bacon  by  one  corner,  so  that  each  slice  blankets  an  oys- 
ter. Do  not  crowd.  Lay  the  skewers  in  a  buttered  bag, 
and  cook  in  a  quick  oven  ten  minutes.  Lay  each  spindle 
with  its  contents  undisturbed  on  a  slice  of  toast,  pour 
the  drip  from  the  bag  over  them  and  serve  at  once. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
FISH. 

Filet  of  Bass. —  WASH  and  wipe  the  filets  dry 
with  a  clean  towel,  trimming  away  the  fins  with  a  pair  of 
large  scissors  close  to  the  filet.  Dust  with  salt  and  lay 
in  a  covered  dish  with  a  minced  onion,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon  and  a  bit  of  finely  cut  parsley  and  thyme.  Let 
them  stand  half  an  hour.  Twenty  minutes  before  serv- 
ing wipe  dry  again,  dust  lightly  with  flour,  dip  in  well- 
beaten  egg,  then  roll  in  fine  bread  crumbs.  When  all  are 
prepared,  put  in  greased  bag  and  cook  twenty  minutes 
until  a  delicate  brown.  Arrange  on  a  warm  dish  and 
serve  with  parsley  and  lemon  or  sauce  tartare.  Filets  of 
sole  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

Baked  Blue  Fish. — Clean  thoroughly,  cut  off  head 
and  tail  and  fill  with  a  soft  bread  stuffing.  Tie  up  se- 
curely, rub  over  the  outside  of  the  fish  with  sweet  vege- 
table oil,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  a  squeeze  of 
lemon  juice  and  slip  into  the  greased  bag.  Seal  and 
cook  from  twenty  to  forty  minutes  according  to  weight. 
Serve  with  sliced  lemon  rolled  in  fine  cut  parsley. 

A  Breakfast  Dish  of  Bloaters. — Few  people  know 
how  very  nice  smoked  and  dried  fish  can  be  when  cooked 
in  a  paper  bag  and  seasoned  in  the  French  fashion.  Cut 
off  the  head  and  tail  of  the  fish,  loosen  the  skin  at  the 
neck  with  a  knife  and  holding  it  firmly  between  the 
knife  and  finger,  pull  it  off.  Split  the  fish  with  a  sharp 

31 


32   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

knife,  remove  the  backbone  and  soak  in  cold  water  over 
night,  or  if  you  forget  to  do  that,  for  twenty  minutes  in 
water  nearly  at  the  boiling  point.  Arrange  the  filets  in  a 
wooden  baking  dish,  cover  with  milk,  dot  with  bits  of  but- 
ter, put  in  bag  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Garnish  with  a  little  finely  chopped  parsley  or  sprigs  of 
water  cress  and  serve  with  paper-bag  baked  potatoes. 
On  a  cool  morning  there  are  few  more  appetizing  break- 
fast dishes,  while  its  cheapness  puts  it  within  the  reach 
of  the  most  impecunious.  For  a  change  the  filets  may  be 
baked  in  buttered  paper  cases  or  cooked  au  gratin  still  in 
paper  bags. 

Cat  Fish.—  For  the  small  sized  cat  fish — clean,  wash, 
dry  well,  salt  and  pepper  inside  and  out,  then  grease  well 
with  butter  or  vegetable  oil  and  roll  in  fine,  sifted  bread 
crumbs  or  corn  meal.  Lay  in  a  well  greased  bag  on  thin 
sliced  bacon,  put  a  few  more  slices  of  bacon  on  top.  Seal 
and  cook  half  an  hour. 

Codfish  Cones. — "  Pick  up  "  enough  salt  codfish  to 
make  two  cupfuls  of  the  shreds.  Cover  with  cold  water 
and  let  stand  for  two  hours,  then  drain,  make  a  cream 
sauce,  using  two  level  tablespoonfuls  each  butter  and 
flour,  and  one  cupful  of  hot  milk.  Mash  and  season 
enough  hot  boiled  potatoes  to  measure  two  cupfuls,  add 
sauce  and  fish  and  beat  well  with  a  fork.  Shape  in  small 
cones,  brush  with  melted  butter,  dredge  with  fine  bread 
crumbs  and  put  in  a  paper  bag.  Cook  ten  minutes.  If 
desired  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  can  be  cooked  at  the 
same  time  in  a  separate  bag  and  be  used  as  a  garnish  for 
the  cones. 

Codfish  a  la  Creme. — Cook  the  fish  first  in  boiling 
salted  water  which  has  been  very  slightly  acidulated 
with  vinegar.  Let  it  cook  until  the  flesh  separates  from 


STANDARD  PAPER;  BAG  COOKERY   55 

the  bones.  After  draining  thoroughly  and  removing  the 
skin  and  bones,  break  the  flesh  into  large  flakes.  Pour  a 
highly  seasoned  white  sauce  over  it.  It  may  now  be  cook- 
ed in  a  wooden  baking  dish  in  the  bag,  or  it  may  be  pre- 
pared as  follows:  Press  it  into  the  form  of  an  oblong 
mould,  using  only  just  enough  sauce  to  hold  the  flakes  to- 
gether. Not  as  much  sauce  is  needed  as  when  the  fish  is 
browned  in  a  baking  dish.  Brush  the  top  liberally  with 
melted  butter,  sprinkle  with  rolled  cracker  crumbs.  Put 
the  mold  in  a  paper  bag  in  the  oven,  and  let  the  fish  ac- 
quire a  nutty,  crisp  crust.  Send  to  the  table  garnished 
with  lemon  and  parsley  or  thin  slices  of  tomato  and  a  fevr 
sprays  of  water  cress. 

Paper  Bagged  Eels. — Eels  may  be  cooked  in  a  pa- 
per bag  without  growing  as  hard  as  they  are  apt  to  do  as 
ordinarily  treated.  Allow  one-half  pound  of  eels  (after 
they  are  dressed)  to  a  person.  ^Wash  them  thoroughly, 
removing  all  blood  from  slit  in  eels.  Cut  in  two-inch 
pieces,  put  in  a  dish  and  sprinkle  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
to  every  pound  over  them.  Now  pour  over  them  boiling 
water,  enough  to  cover  well,  and  let  stand  until  water  is 
cold.  Pour  water  off  and  leave  eels  where  they  will  drain 
until  nearly  dry.  Take  sufficient  Indian  meal  to  roll 
them  in,  add  a  little  pepper  to  it  and  roll  each  piece  un- 
til well  covered.  Place  in  a  well-greased  bag  and  cook 
about  twenty  minutes,  when  they  will  be  a  rich  brown, 
thoroughly  cooked  and  deliciously  juicy. 

Flounder  a  la  Meuniere. — Chop  a  small  shallot 
and  mix  with  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  paste,  a  squeeze  of 
lemon  juice,  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  chopped 
parsley,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Put  the  fish  with  the  seasoning  inside 
of  a  well  buttered  bag,  after  dredging  the 


34.   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

fish  with  flour.  Pour  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter  over  the  fish,  seal  up  and  cook.  A  two-pound  fish, 
whole,  requires  thirty  minutes.  The  same  weight  of  filets 
cook  in  eight  minutes. 

Filets  of  Flounder. —  Remove  the  filets  from  a  medi- 
um sized  flounder  and  cut  each  filet  in  two.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  fold 
each  filet  in  two  or  roll  up  skin  side  inwards.  Put  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  or  a  teaspoonful  of  vegetable  oil 
on  top  of  each  and  place  carefully  in  the  well-greased 
bag.  Seal  the  mouth  of  the  bag,  and  cook  about  ten 
minutes  on  the  wire  grid  in  a  hot  oven. 

Remove  from  the  bag,  lift  carefully  on  to  a  hot  platter, 
garnish  with  water  cress  or  parslied  lemon  slices  and 
serve. 

Finnan  Haddie. —  Pick  out  a  fish  that  is  thick 
through  the  centre,  weighing  about  two  pounds.  Soak  in 
cold  water,  after  washing  well,  for  an  hour.  Brush  all 
over  with  melted  butter,  dredge  with  flour,  put  in  a  well- 
buttered  bag,  skin  side  down,  dot  with  butter  and  pour 
over  it  a  cup  of  hot  milk.  Seal  securely  and  bake  in  a  very 
hot  oven  twenty  minutes.  The  fish  may  be  served  whole, 
or  flaked — free  from  bones  and  skin — and  served  with 
cream  sauce. 

Finnan  Haddie. — Prepare  in  the  regular  way,  lay 
in  wood  cookery  dish,  skin  side  down,  season  with  bits 
of  butter,  add  a  small  cupful  of  warm  milk,  put  in  bag 
and  seal.  Bake  twenty-five  minutes  and  serve  from 
the  dish  with  cream  sauce.  This  eliminates  the  wash- 
ing of  dishes  with  the  strong  fishy  odor. 

Fish  Cakes.—  Use  for  this  two  cupfuls  cold  fish  freed 
from  skin  and  bones  and  chopped  fine,  and  the  same 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   35 

amount  of  cooked,  seasoned  and  mashed  potatoes.  Mix 
well,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  vegetable  oil  or  melted  butter  and  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  milk.  Whip  the  mixture  until  as  "light  as  feath- 
ers." Shape  into  small,  flat  cakes  of  even  size.  Beat 
up  an  egg  on  a  plate,  then  egg  the  cakes  and  roll  deftly 
in  the  finest  of  sifted  bread  crumbs  and  again  shape.  Put 
in  well  greased  bag,  seal  and  put  in  a  hot  oven.  Cook 
about  twenty  minutes. 

New  England  Fish  Pie. — Have  a  pound  of  cod 
steak  boned  and  cut  in  pieces.  Roll  each  piece  in  slightly 
salted  flour,  and  season  with  paprika  or  white  pepper. 
Lay  in  the  well-greased  bag  and  put  on  top  of  the  fish  a 
layer  of  oysters  with  their  juice  and  a  squeeze  of  lemon 
juice.  Sprinkle  with  a  layer  of  finely  rolled  and  buttered 
cracker  crumbs,  dot  with  a  few  bits  of  butter,  seal  the 
bag  and  bake  slowly  fifteen  minutes.  Have  ready  some 
hot  mashed  potato  well  sesasoned  with  cream  and  butter. 
Take  the  grid  and  bag  from  the  oven,  tear  off  the  top 
of  the  bag,  spread  the  potato  over  the  fish  like  a  crust, 
brush  over  with  a  little  milk  mixed  with  a  portion  of  an 
egg  yolk  and  set  back  in  oven  for  five  minutes  to  brown 
and  glaze,  turning  the  grid  with  the  bag  twice  during  the 
cooking.  Cut  open  the  bag,  put  the  fish  balls  on  a  hot 
platter,  garnish  and  serve  plain  with  a  tomato  sauce. 

Fish  Souffle. — One  pint  of  boiled  halibut?  or  other 
delicate  fish,  freed  from  bones  and  skin  and  mashed  to  a 
pulp.  Season  with  one  small  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash 
of  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Melt  a 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  cook  in 
it  for  three  minutes  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Add  slowly 
a  cupful  of  milk  and  the  seasoned  fish  pulp.  Beat  two 
eggs  thoroughly  and  add  the  fish  to  them.  Pour  all  into 


36   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

bag,  seal  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven, 
half  an  hour. 

Planked  Fish  Bag-Cooked.— Planked  fish  responds 
beautifully  to  the  paper-bag  treatment,  and  there  is  no 
better  way  of  developing  the  distinctive  flavor  of  any  of 
the  delicate  white-meated  fish.  The  plank  however 
should  not  be  as  thick  as  that  usually  required.  It  must 
be  of  hard-wood,  hickory,  cherry,  live  oak,  cedar  or  ash — 
well  seasoned  and  sawed  about  a  half  inch  in  thickness, 
rounded  and  tapered  at  one  end  like  an  ironing  board. 
This  to  accommodate  the  tail  of  the  fish.  If  cooking 
small  fish  use  the  oval  wood  cooking  dishes  made  of 
maple  wood. 

Make  it  very  hot  in  the  oven  or  under  the  gas  flame, 
then  grease  well  with  vegetable  oil,  olive  or  the  refined 
cotton  seed,  and  lay  on  it  the  fish  cleaned,  split  down  the 
back,  seasoned,  oiled  all  over  with  the  sweetest  of  vege- 
table oils  or  butter  and  spread  out  as  flat  as  possible  with 
the  skin  side  next  to  the  hot  board.  Slip  into  the  greased 
bag  and  fasten  tightly.  If  you  use  the  gas  oven  for 
planking  your  fish,  as  most  of  us  do,  turn  on  both  burn- 
ers until  the  oven  is  very  hot.  Then  set  in  the  fish  with 
a  trivet  under  the  bag  the  same  as  if  you  were  cooking 
without  the  plank. 

Bake  from  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes,  then  serve  pip- 
ing hot  on  the  plank  which  has  been  taken  out  of  the 
bag,  set  on  a  big  japanned  tray  and  garnished  with  hot 
mashed  potato  pressed  through  a  tube  in  rose  fashion  at 
regular  intervals,  alternating  with  mounds  of  peas  or 
carrot  dice,  sprigs  of  watercress  or  parsley  and  thin 
slices  of  lemon  rolled  in  fine  minced  parsley.  Accompany 
with  sauce  tartare  or  parsley  butter. 

Halibut  a  la  Poulette.— Take  two  pounds  of  hali- 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   37 

but,  arrange  in  filets,  freeing  from  skin  and  bone;  then 
cut  into  narrow  strips.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
lemon  juice;  cut  two  onions  in  slices  and  lay  on  the 
filets,  then  set  away  for  half  an  hour.>  At  the  end  of  this 
time  have  ready  one-third  cup  melted  butter  or  refined 
vegetable  oil.  Dip  the  filets  in  this,  roll,  skewer  into 
shape  and  dredge  with  flour.  Arrange  in  a  well-buttered 
bag,  seal  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 
Serve  with  white  sauce  and  two  hard  boiled  eggs,  sliced 
for  a  garnish. 

Herring  au  Gratin. —  Soak  and  filet  the  herring. 
Butter  a  bag  and  strew  the  bottom  with  the  bread 
crumbs  well  buttered,  a  layer  of  grated  cheese  and  a 
little  minced  chives  or  parsley.  Sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  lay  in  the  filets  of  herring,  plain  or  alternately  with 
sliced  tomato.  Cover  with  more  crumbs,  parsley,  cheese 
and  butter,  close  the  bag,  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  until 
a  good  brown. 

Herrings  With  Herbs. — Take  four  dried  herrings, 
bone  them,  fill  the  cavities  with  a  little  (about  half  a 
teaspoonful  to  each  fish)  finely  minced  shallot  or  chives, 
and  parsley.  Add  a  few  fresh  breadcrumbs  and  tiny 
bits  of  butter.  If  liked,  a  tiny  grate  of  nutmeg  may  be 
added  as  well  as  a  good  dust  of  pepper.  Put  into  a 
well  greased  bag  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes. 
Dish  up  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible.  Other  dried  fish 
are  excellent  prepared  in  the  same  way. 

Kedgeree. — Mix  one  cup  of  shredded  fish  with  one 
cupful  of  boiled  rice,  tender  and  well  drained.  Put  into  a 
well-buttered  wooden  baking  dish,  while  you  prepare  the 
sauce.  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  each  of 
butter  and  flour  and  as  soon  as  melted  and  "  bubbly/' 
add  one  cup  of  hot  milk.  Stir  until  smooth  and  thick, 


38   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

season  with  salt  and  pepper,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the 
yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  that  have  been  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  pour  over  the  rice  and  fish.  Put  the  dish 
in  a  well  buttered  bag  and  set  in  the  oven  until  thoroughly 
hot  and  delicately  browned. 

Kippered  Mackerel  With  Fine  Herbs.— Cut  salt 
mackerel  into  filets,  lay  them  in  a  deep  earthen  dish  and 
cover  with  boiling  water.  Leave  in  water  half  a  min- 
ute. Take  out,  wipe  dry,  dust  with  coarse  black  pepper 
and  put  on  top  of  each  filet  half  a  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley  and  chives  or  onion  and  a  bit  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  small  walnut.  Grease  a  bag  well,  put  in  the  filets; 
seal  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve 
hot,  with  brown  bread  and  butter. 

Salmon  Loaf. —  Mince  one  can  of  salmon,  removing 
all  bits  of  bone.  Add  to  it  a  cupful  fine,  stale  bread 
crumbs,  two  beaten  eggs,  a  half  cupful  milk  and  salt, 
pepper,  parsley  and  lemon  juice  to  season.  Put  in  a 
wooden  mould  in  a  buttered  bag  and  bake  or  steam  for 
half  an  hour.  Turn  out  and  serve  hot  with  a  white  or 
Hollandaise  sauce. 

Scalloped  Salmon. —  Put  a  layer  of  soft  grated 
bread  crumbs  in  the  bottom  of  a  wooden  baking  dish  that 
has  been  well  buttered.  Sprinkle  the  bread  crumbs  with 
salt,  pepper  and  bits  of  butter.  Cover  with  a  layer  of 
flaked  salmon,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
pouring  in  some  of  the  oil  and  liquor  from  the  can. 
Over  this  spread  another  layer  of  the  seasoned  crumbs, 
then  more  salmon  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  filled.  Let 
the  last  layer  be  of  buttered  crumbs  moistening  slightly 
with  a  little  milk.  Spread  a  little  soft  butter  over  the 
surface  and  bake  in  a  buttered  bag  for  half  an  hour  in 
a  hot  oven  to  a  rich  brown. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   39 

Salmon  Souffle. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan  and  melt  without  browning.  Add  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  until  blended,  then  pour  in 
one  cup  of  warm  milk.  When  thickened  and  smooth, 
add  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  one  cup  of  salmon  flaked,  a 
tablespoonful  of  cream  and  a  tiny  bit  of  essence  of 
anchovy  and  pepper  to  season.  Mix  carefully  and  well, 
fold  in  the  white  of  one  egg  beaten  until  stiff  and  dry; 
then  fill  ramekins  or  wooden  dish  three-quarters  full. 
Put  in  a  bag  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  very 
hot.  Chopped  parsley  may  be  added  if  desired. 

Baked  Shad. — In  dressing  the  fish,  cut  as  small  an 
opening  as  possible.  Wash  well,  dry  and  fill  with  a 
dressing  made  in  this  way.  Pour  over  one  cupful  dry 
bread  crumbs  enough  cold  water  or  milk  to  moisten.  Add 
a  teaspoonful  melted  butter,  and  a  teaspoonful  minced 
parsley.  Mix  thoroughly  and  fill  the  fish,  sewing  or 
skewering  the  opening  together.  Use  a  wood  cookery 
dish  and  put  into  a  buttered  bag  two  or  three 
slices  of  wafer-thin  salt  pork  and  having  salted 
and  peppered  the  outside  of  the  fish  lay  care- 
fully on  top  the  sliced  pork.  Lay  as  many  more  thin 
slices  on  top  of  the  fish,  or  wipe  over  with  olive  oil. 
Seal,  set  in  the  oven  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with  sauce  tartare  or  a  good 
brown  sauce  enriched  with  a  small  glass  of  Madeira. 

Shad  Roe. —  As  soon  as  the  fish  comes  from  the  water 
or  market,  plunge  the  roe  into  boiling  salted  water  to 
which  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  or  vinegar  has 
been  added.  Cook  gently  about  ten  minutes,  lift  out 
with  a  skimmer  and  slip  into  a  bowl  of  ice  water  to 
become  firm.  When  ready  to  cook,  split  lengthwise  if 
plump  and  full,  brush  over  with  olive  oil,  melted  butter 


40   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

or  refined  cotton  seed  oil,  and  tuck  at  once  into  the  well 
greased  bag.  Some  cooks  prefer  to  dust  the  roe  with 
fine  bread  crumbs,  lay  into  beaten  egg,  then  dust  once 
more  with  sifted  crumbs  before  "bagging".  Serve 
simply  with  lemon  and  cress,  with  sauce  tartare  or  may- 
onnaise, or  with  a  sauce  prepared  as  follows:  Put  into 
a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  butter  or  olive  oil,  one 
tablespoonful  lemon  juice,  and  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
teaspoonful  Worcestershire  sauce.  Heat  to  the  boiling 
point  and  pour  over  the  roe. 

Smelts. — Smelts  skewered  in  rings,  using  a  wooden 
toothpick  to  hold  heads  and  tails  together,  dipped  in 
milk,  well  floured  and  fried  in  deep  fat,  make  an  attrac- 
tive fish  course.  The  use  of  a  wood  cookery  dish  here  is 
strongly  recommended.  The  skewer  can  be  removed  be- 
fore serving,  as  the  fish  will  usually  keep  its  shape. 
Garnish  the  plate  on  which  the  fish  are  served  with  cress 
and  slices  of  lemon  rolled  in  finely  minced  parsley.  If 
the  smelts  are  to  furnish  the  main  part  of  the  meal,  pile 
them  in  the  center  of  a  hot  platter  and  surround  with  a 
border  of  mashed  potato,  or  mound  the  potato  and  circle 
with  the  fish  for  a  border. 

Bagged  Weak  Fish. — Well  grease  a  bag,  with  but- 
ter or  vegetable  oil.  Prepare  a  weak  fish  as  for  frying  by 
seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  dredging  well  with 
flour.  Rub  melted  butter  on  both  sides,  place  it  in  the 
bag,  skin  side  down,  lightly  dredge  the  upper  side  again 
with  flour  and  dot  with  butter.  Peel  and  cut  an  onion  in 
half,  put  in  the  bag  but  not  on  the  fish.  Close  the  bag, 
seal  and  cook  on  the  wire  rack  or  broiler  in  a  hot  oven 
for  twenty-five  minutes, 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   41 

White  Fish  Planked. — Remove  the  head  and  tail 
and  bone  of  the  fish.  Wash  carefully  and  place  in 
wooden  cookery  dish,  skin  side  down.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper,  bits  of  butter  and  chopped  onion.  Roll  a 
half  dozen  oysters  in  cracker  crumbs,  place  on  top  of 
fish,  and  put  the  dish  in  the  bag.  Bake  forty  minutes. 
Set  the  wooden  dish  on  a  hot  platter  and  serve.  The 
skin  of  the  fish  and  remnants  can  be  left  in  the  dish 
which  can  then  be  thrown  away.  Halibut  and  mackerel 
are  especially  fine  when  prepared  in  these  wood  cookery 
dishes  as  it  holds  them  intact  in  process  of  cooking  and 
serving. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
FISH  SAUCE. 

Anchovy  Sauce. — POUND  three  anchovies  smooth 
with  three  spoonfuls  of  butter,  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
vinegar  and  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  water.  Bring  to 
the  boil  and  thicken  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed 
smooth  in  a  little  cold  water.  Strain  through  a  sieve 
and  serve  hot. 

Quick  Bearnaise  Sauce. — Beat  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  four  of  water. 
Add  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  and  cook  slowly  until 
thick  and  smooth.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  minced 
onion,  capers,  olives,  pickles  and  parsley  and  a  little 
tarragon  vinegar. 

Bearnaise  Sauce. — This  calls  for  four  small,  chopped 
shallots,  one  branch  of  chopped  tarragon,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  wine  vinegar,  two  raw  egg  yolks,  two  and 
a  half  ounces  of  hot  melted  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper.  Put  the 
shallots,  vinegar,  tarragon  and  pepper  in  a  saucepan 
and  let  it  stand  on  a  slow  fire  until  its  contents  are  re- 
duced to  one-half  their  original  quantity.  Squeeze  the 
mixture  through  a  cloth  into  another  saucepan.  Add  the 
egg  yolks  and  beat  the  mixture  four  minutes  without 
allowing  it  to  boil.  Then  add  the  melted  butter  very 
gradually,  still  keeping  the  pan  where  there  is  no  danger 
of  boiling.  Season  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  half 

49 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   43 

Saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper.  It  is  well  to  make 
the  last  an  extremely  scanty  portion,  as  more  may  be 
added  if  desired,  but  none  can  be  removed.  Stir  all 
again  quite  thoroughly  for  a  minute.  Add  the  parsley 
and  serve. 

Brown  Sauce. — Brown  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
in  butter.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  milk  or  cream  and  cook 
until  thick,  stirring  constantly. 

Curry  Sauce. —  Fry  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
onion  in  butter  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  mixed 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder.  Mix  thoroughly, 
add  one  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  cook  until  thick,  stir- 
ring constantly.  Take  from  the  fire,  season  with  salt 
and  onion  juice  and  serve  hot. 

Egg  Sauce. —  Mix  a  half  cup  of  butter,  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  flour,  and  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  and  set  the 
sauce  pan  on  the  stove.  Stir  until  thickened,  seasoning 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  two  hard  boiled  eggs,  chop- 
ped fine,  and  serve. 

Sauce  Hollandaise. — This  is  really  a  warm  mayon- 
naise, using  butter  instead  of  vegetable  oil.  It  is  the  best 
sauce  for  serving  with  salmon  or  other  boiled  fish  if  you 
desire  it  hot.  It  requires  a  quarter  pound  butter,  half  a 
lemon,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a  little  salt  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  white  pepper.  The  secret  of  its  successful 
making  is  to  preserve  an  even  temperature.  The  sauce 
should  not  approach  the  boiling  point,  as  the  eggs  would 
cook  and  the  sauce  curdle.  Put  the  eggs  in  a  small 
saucepan  and  add  the  butter,  gradually  stirring  con- 
stantly with  a  wooden  spoon.  It  will  soon  thicken  like 
a  mayonnaise.  When  the  butter  is  all  in,  add  salt  and 
pepper  and  lastly  the  lemon  juice,  stirring  until  well 


44      STANDARD   PAPER;   BAG   COOKERY 

mixed.  If  the  sauce  becomes  thick,  add  a  little  stock  or 
hot  water.  Surround  the  fish  with  parsley  and  slices  of 
lemon  and  serve  the  sauce  in  a  bowl.  A  few  sliced  cu- 
cumbers should  be  served  with  fish. 

Egg  Sauce  Made  From  the  Hollandaise. — Egg 
sauce  may  be  made  from  the  Hollandaise  by  sprinkling 
with  two  finely  chopped  hard  boiled  eggs  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  parsley;. 

Lobster  Sauce. — Phis  is  delicious  with  any  white 
fleshed  fish.  Its  foundation  is  Hollandaise  sauce,  which 
is  also  the  foundation  of  most  of  the  fish  sauces.  To 
make  it,  stir  together  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  few 
drops  of  onion  juice,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  (not  too  much), 
pepper  to  season,  and  the  juice  of  a  half  lemon.  Add  a 
half  cup  of  white  stock  or  hot  water  and  set  the  bowl 
containing  the  mixture  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  stir 
until  the  butter  melts.  As  soon  as  very  hot,  take  from 
the  fire  and  stir  a  little  of  the  mixture  in  the  well-beaten 
yolks  of  one  and  one-half  eggs,  then  add  the  rest  of  the 
sauce  and  return  to  the  fire.  Stir  constantly  for  five 
minutes  or  until  thickened.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter, 
half  the  pounded  coral  of  a  lobster  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  lobster  meat. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter. —  This  is  perhaps  the  sim- 
plest and  best  sauce  to  serve  on  fried  or  broiled  fish. 
To  make  it,  beat  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  a 
cream  in  a  warm  bowl;  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  minced  pars- 
ley. A  grating  of  nutmeg  or  bit  of  chives  is  sometimes 
added.  If  placed  on  the  ice  this  can  be  kept  on  hand  a 
week  or  more.  It  is  also  excellent  spread  over  a  juicy 
steak. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   45 

Sauce  for  Broiled  Shad  a  la  Murray. — Fry  the 
milts,  and  while  hot  mash  with  butter,  a  tablespoonful 
minced  parsley  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Sea- 
son lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  spread  over  the 
fish  when  removed  from  the  bag.  Set  in  the  oven  one 
moment,  then  serve. 

Parsley  Butter. —  To  make  this  delectable  fish 
sauce,  mix  one  ounce  fresh  butter  with  a  teaspoonful 
each  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice,  half  teaspoonful 
chopped  mixed  tarragon  and  cress  or  chervil  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  season.  Spread  on  a  plate,  set  on  the 
ice  until  cold  then  shape  into  pats.  This  is  nice  with 
any  fish. 

Sauce  Tartare. — This  is  one  of  the  standbys  that  no 
housekeeper  liable  to  the  unexpected  appearance  of 
guests  should  be  without.  It  can  be  used  in  an  emer- 
gency for  so  many  different  things.  It  is  delicious  with 
fish,  cold  or  hot,  broiled  or  deviled  chicken,  tongue,  beef, 
cauliflower  or  potato  salad.  It  is  easy  to  make,  the  only 
essentials  being  good  materials,  everything  cold,  and  the 
oil  added  very  slowly  at  first.  After  that  it  may  be 
poured  in  in  larger  quantities  and  more  frequently.  Mix 
in  a  small  bowl  one  half  teaspoonful  dry  mustard,  the 
same  amount  each  powdered  sugar  and  salt,  and  a  quar- 
ter teaspoonful  cayenne.  Add  the  yolks  of  two  fresh 
eggs,  and  stir.  Measure  out  a  cupful  of  olive  oil  and 
add  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  stirring  until  it  thickens.  If 
it  begins  to  thicken  too  much  to  stir  easily,  thin  with  a 
little  lemon  juice,  adding  oil  and  lemon  alternately  until 
you  have  used  all  the  oil  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice.  Lastly  beat  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tar- 
ragon or  other  vinegar.  This  gives  the  regular  mayon- 
naise, which  should  be  smooth  and  thick.  Now  to  make 


46   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

it  into  sauce  tartare,  add  one  teaspoonful  finely  chopped 
onion  or  onion  juice,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  pickle, 
capers,  olives  and  parsley,  in  any  proportion  desired. 
You  may  use  simply  the  sour  cucumber  pickle  or  part 
pickle  and  olives,  capers,  etc.  This  may  be  kept  for  a 
number  of  days  in  cold  weather  by  keeping  in  glass  and 
in  a  cool  place. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

Capon.— CAPON  is  the  best  of  all  poultry,  having 
been  specially  treated  and  fattened  for  the  table.  They 
can  be  distinguished  in  the  market  by  the  head,  tail  and 
wing  feathers  being  left  intact.  They  are  always  high 
in  price  and  considered  great  luxuries.  They  are  cooked 
the  same  as  chicken.  If  to  be  stuffed,  choose  a  delicate 
dressing  like  oysters  or  chestnuts.  Cut  the  neck  off  short 
and  remove  the  oil  bag  from  the  root  of  the  tail.  Singe 
carefully,  pluck  out  every  lingering  pin  feather,  wash 
quickly  with  a  rough,  clean  cloth  and  warm — not  hot — 
water ;  dash  cold  water  over  it,  let  drain,  then  wipe  care- 
fully with  a  soft,  damp  cloth  inside  and  out.  Salt  lightly 
inside  and  dust  with  pepper,  stuff  with  whatever  dress- 
ing you  elect  to  have,  truss,  fasten  thin  slices  of  bacon  or 
salt  pork  over  the  breast  and  thighs,  grease  the  entire 
body  liberally  with  soft  butter  or  vegetable  oils,  put  into 
a  loose  fitting  well-greased  bag,  breast  down,  seal,  lay 
on  a  trivet,  set  on  broiler  in  hot  oven,  let  cook  till  bag 
corners  turn  very  brown,  then  slack  heat  one-half,  or 
even  a  little  more  if  the  heat  is  fierce,  and  cook  from  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  an  hour  and  three-quarters.  The 
capon  should  be  a  golden  brown  all  over,  except  on  the 
back  where  it  touches  the  bag  and  underneath  the  bacon 
slices.  But  it  will  be  as  well  done  everywhere  as  in  the 
brown  part.  Cook  the  liver,  gizzard  and  neck  in  a  small 
separate  bag,  wrapping  each  in  a  slice  of  bacon  and  sea- 

47 


48   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

soning  them  with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  a  very  little 
water,  seal  and  put  on  to  cook  less  than  an  hour  before 
dinner  time.  The  slow  heat  will  make  them  very  tender. 
Cooked  with  capon,  they  would  be  overdone.  Serve 
with  sweet  potatoes  Southern  style,  or  baked  apples 
slightly  sweetened. 

Chicken  with  Parsnips. — Wash,  parboil  and  scrape 
a  quart  of  tender  parsnips.  Split  a  Spring  chicken  down 
the  back  and  lay  in  a  buttered  bag,  skin  side  up.  Ar- 
range the  sliced  parsnips  around  the  chicken,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dot  with  bits  of  butter  until  a  half 
cup  has  been  used,  and  top  with  two  or  three  thin 
slices  of  fat,  salt  pork.  Put  a  half  cup  hot  water  in 
the  bag  and  bake  to  a  delicate  brown.  Put  the  chicken 
on  a  hot  platter  and  arrange  the  parsnips  around  it. 
Make  a  cream  gravy  from  the  drippings  in  the  bag 
and  serve  with  mashed  potatoes,  currant  jelly  and  beet 
greens. 

Chicken  a  la  Baltimore. — Take  two  small  Spring 
chickens,  prepare  as  for  broiling,  but  cut  into  joints. 
Wipe  dry,  season  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  into 
beaten  egg,  then  cover  well  with  bread  crumbs.  Place 
in  a  well-buttered  bag,  pour  a  little  melted  butter  or  oil 
over  them  and  bake  in  the  oven  twenty  or  twenty-five 
minutes.  Serve  with  cream  sauce  and  garnish  with  thin, 
crisped  slices  of  bacon  and  tiny  corn  oysters. 

Chicken  Croquettes. — This  may  be  made  from  left- 
over cooked  chicken  or  from  canned  chicken.  For  a 
dozen  croquettes  allow  one  cupful  of  solid  meat  chopped 
fine,  a  cupful  of  cream  sauce,  made  by  cooking  together 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour,  then  stir- 
ring in  a  scant  cupful  of  hot  milk  and  cooking  until 
smooth  and  thick.  Combine  chicken  and  sauce,  season 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   49 

with  half  a  teaspoonful  each  plain  and  celery  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  a  little  lemon  juice  and 
chopped  parsley.  Mix  thoroughly,  then  set  the  mixture 
away  to  cool.  When  cool  and  stiff  roll  in  finely  pow- 
dered bread  crumbs  so  that  every  bit  of  the  chicken  is 
covered  and  shape  into  cones,  cutlets  or  cylinders.  Have 
ready  a  beaten  egg  to  which  a  scant  tablespoonful  of 
milk  has  been  added,  dip  the  croquettes  in  this,  drain 
well,  roll  in  crumbs  again,  and  again  set  aside  to  cool 
and  stiffen.  When  ready  to  cook,  slip  in  well-buttered 
bag  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  minutes. 

Paper  Bagged  Chicken. — Split  the  chicken  down 
the  middle  of  the  back,  spread  flat,  and  put  a  skewer  in 
each  side  to  prevent  it  from  curling.  Beat  up  a  very 
fresh  egg,  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  black  pepper  to  taste, 
an  ounce  of  melted  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce  or  something  similar  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
made  mustard.  Mix  well.  With  a  brush  glaze  the 
chicken  with  the  mixture.  Place  in  a  greased  bag  with 
bread  crumbs  around  and  over  it.  Be  careful  that  the 
skewers  do  not  tear  the  bag.  Seal  up  tight  and  cook 
from  thirty-five  to  forty  minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven. 

Chicken  Pie. — Disjoint  two  chickens  and  cook  until 
tender  in  just  enough  water  to  cover.  Remove  all  the 
thick  skin  and  the  largest  bones.  Line  a  baking  dish 
with  good  paste,  pack  the  chicken  in  layers  and  dust 
each  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Pour  in  enough  of  the 
chicken  liquor  to  come  nearly  to  the  top ;  lay  on  a  table- 
spoon of  butter  and  cover  with  a  crust  after  cutting  out 
a  piece  as  large  as  the  top  of  a  small  cup.  Moisten  the 
edges  and  press  together,  then  ornament  the  top  with 
leaves  cut  from  the  trimmings  of  paste.  Bag  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 


50   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Paste  for  Chicken  Pie.— Sift  five  level  teaspoons  of 
baking  powder  and  one  level  teaspoon  of  salt  with  four 
cups  of  flour  and  rub  in  one  cup  of  butter  until  like 
coarse  meal.  Mix  with  nearly  two  cups  of  milk  or 
enough  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out.  This 
makes  a  more  hygienic  crust  than  where  no  baking 
powder  is  used. 

Chicken  Rissoles. —  Chop  fine  two  cupfuls  chicken 
and  dressing  or  any  scraps  left.  Add  two  spoonfuls 
mashed  potato,  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  salt  and 
pepper  to  season.  Roll  in  balls,  dip  in  beaten  egg  yolk, 
then  in  fine  bread  crumbs  and  place  in  paper  bag.  Bake 
twenty  minutes. 

Roast  Chicken.— Cover  the  breast  of  the  fowl  OP 
chicken  with  butter,  drippings,  or  any  refined  vegetable 
oil  or  tie  a  piece  of  fat  bacon  over  it.  Place  in  a  bag 
and  set  on  broiler  in  a  hot  oven.  Allow  twenty-five 
minutes  for  a  small  Spring  chicken,  thirty-five  minutes 
for  a  large  fowl,  forty-five  to  fifty  minutes  (according 
to  size)  for  stuffed  poultry  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Saute  of  Chicken  With  Mushrooms. — Cut  a  young, 
tender  chicken  into  joints,  trim  off  all  projecting  bones, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper — not  too  highly — and  brush 
over  with  melted  butter.  Put  into  a  well-buttered  wooden 
cook  dish,  with  eight  or  twelve  small  mushrooms,  cut  in 
slices.  Add  a  pinch  of  herbs,  a  very  small  onion,  and  a 
half  gill  of  good  white  stock.  Seal  bag  tight,  give  ten 
minutes  in  a  very  hot  oven,  then  thirty  in  moderate  heat. 
Take  up  on  a  hot  dish  and  keep  hot,  while  you  make  the 
gravy.  Take  for  the  gravy  the  hot  liquor  from  the  bag, 
put  it  in  a  bowl  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up  in 
half  a  gill  of  cream.  Stir  hard  over  hot  water,  but  do 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   51 

not  let  boil.  When  thoroughly  blended,  pour  over  the 
chicken,  garnish  with  chopped  parsley,  a  few  mush- 
room heads  and  half  moons  of  crisp  puff  paste.  Serve 
as  hot  as  possible. 

Smothered  Chicken. —  Have  a  good  sized  broiler 
cut  into  joints,  taking  care  not  to  leave  sharp  bones  pro- 
jecting. Salt  and  pepper  them  lightly,  dredge  with 
flour  and  lay  in  a  well-greased  bag  upon  thin  slices  of 
bacon.  Cover  the  chicken  with  more  bacon  slices,  tak- 
ing care  to  keep  the  chicken  spread  rather  flat.  Add 
a  tablespoonful  of  water  or  a  couple  of  peeled  and 
sliced  tomatoes.  Shreds  of  green  pepper  add  some- 
what of  flavor  to  the  tomatoes.  Seal  in  a  bag  and  cook 
for  forty  minutes,  slacking  the  heat  almost  half  after  the 
first  five  minutes.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  gravy  from 
the  bag. 

Ducks  With  Banana  Dressing. — Wash  with  cold 
salt  water  inside  and  out,  drain,  wipe  dry  and  season 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  a  dressing  of  toast- 
ed bread  crumbs  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  ban- 
ana. Cut  in  small  pieces,  well  seasoned  with  chopped 
celery,  salt  and  pepper.  Stuff,  truss,  grease  all  over 
and  tie  slices  of  bacon  over  the  breast.  Put  in  a  well 
greased  bag,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  wine  glass 
of  sherry.  Seal  and  put  in  a  very  hot  oven.  At  the 
end  of  fifteen  minutes  reduce  heat  one-half  and  cook  for 
fifty  minutes  longer. 

Canvas  Backs. —  Draw  the  ducks  as  soon  as  they  are 
received,  pluck,  singe  and  wipe  them  with  a  damp  cloth, 
but  under  no  conditions  wash  them.  When  ready  to 
cook,  truss,  dust  lightly  with  pepper,  and  salt  and 
spread  them  thickly  with  butter  or  vegetable  oil.  A  very 
slight  dusting  of  flour  should  be  given  when  they  are 


52   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

put  into  the  oven.  After  eighteen  minutes  of  intense 
heat  they  are  ready  to  serve,  accompanied  by  toasted 
hominy  and  black  currant  jelly. 

Chicken,  Italian  Style. — Chop  fine  one  onion,  one 
small  carrot,  a  stick  of  celery  and  a  sprig  of  parsley. 
Place  in  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  wooden  cookery  dishes 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
olive  oil.  Lay  a  good  sized  broiling  chicken  cut  into 
joints  on  top  of  the  vegetables,  and  around  the  chicken 
a  half  dozen  dried  mushrooms  that  have  been  soaked 
for  fifteen  minutes  in  cold  water.  Put  in  paper  bag, 
seal  and  bake  forty-five  minutes.  Remove  chicken  to 
hot  platter,  add  a  little  tomato  sauce  to  the  vegetables 
and  stock  remaining  in  the  dish,  pour  over  the  chicken 
and  serve. 

Roast  Wild  Duck. — If  these  come  from  salt  marsK- 
es,  and  have  therefore  a  fishy  taste,  pick,  dress  scald  a 
moment  in  boiling  salt  water,  then  put  in  very  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Drain,  wipe  dry  and  having 
cut  a  lemon  in  half  rub  all  over  inside  and  out  with  the 
juice  and  pulp.  Then  grease  the  outside  of  the  duck 
with  vegetable  oil  or  butter,  salt  very  lightly  and  put 
in  greased  bag.  Seal  and  roast  in  a  moderate  oven  for 
an  hour.  Serve  with  paper  bag  baked  potatoes,  tart 
jelly  and  pickles. 

Roast  Wild  Duck  No.  2.— Clean  an'd  singe  your 
duck;  have  a  dish  with  boiling  water  enough  to  cover 
same,  in  which  you  put  a  tablespoonful  of  salt  and  a 
little  carrot;  parboil  for  only  five  minutes;  then  take 
out  and  dry.  Have  apples  peeled  and  cut  in  quarters; 
stuff  the  duck  with  them.  Slice  bacon  and  wrap  about 
four  slices  around  it,  tied  with  a  string,  lay  in  a  buttered 
bag  with  a  teacupful  of  water  and  a  little  salt  and  pep- 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   53 

per  and  roast  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  an  hour.  Make  a 
gravy  from  the  drippings  in  bag  thickened  slightly  and 
seasoned  with  lemon  juice,  a  little  curry  powder  and 
any  good  sauce. 

Roast  Wild  Duck,  Ohio  Style.— Dress  the  duck  as 
usual,  then  stuff  with  one  quart  of  sauer  kraut  mixed 
with  one  sweet  apple  sliced  and  a  few  mixed  spices  to 
season.  Place  two  stalks  of  celery  in  one  of  the  wooden 
cookery  dishes,  lay  the  duck  on  top,  place  in  bag.  Seal 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Frogs'  Legs. — Scald  the  legs  in  boiling  hot  water 
for  a  minute  or  two,  drain  and  wipe  them  dry,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  cracker 
crumbs  and  put  in  a  well-greased  bag.  The  use  of  a 
wood  cookery  dish  is  recommended.  Bake  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  hot  with  points  of  toast  and 
slices  of  lemon  placed  around  the  platter. 

Paper  Bag  Roast  Goose. — For  roasting,  a  goose 
should  preferably  be  scarcely  passed  the  gosling  period, 
not  more  than  a  year  old  at  the  most.  Its  wings  should 
be  supple  and  tender  at  the  pinions,  its  breast  bone  soft 
and  pliable.  Its  feet  smooth  and  yellow,  and  its  fat 
white  and  soft.  Before  drawing,  singe  the  bird,  then  give 
it  a  thorough  bath  with  soapsuds  and  a  soft  scrubbing 
brush.  The  skin  is  so  oily  that  cold  water  would  make 
no  impression,  and  the  skin  is  bound  to  be  full  of  dust. 
When  purification  is  complete,  rinse  thoroughly  in  clear 
cold  water,  then  dry  and  draw.  Wash  the  inside 
quickly  with  clear  water  to  which  a  little  baking  soda 
has  been  added,  then  rinse  and  wipe.  The  Germans  are 
partial  to  a  stuffing  made  of  equal  parts  of  bread  crumbs, 
chopped  apples,  seeded  raisins  and  boiled  onions  well 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter.  Americans  as  a 
rule  give  the  preference  to  a  potato  stuffing  made  of 


54   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

mashed  potato  highly  seasoned  with  onion,  salt,  pepper 
and  a  little  butter  and  sage.  The  yolks  of  two  eggs  al- 
lowed to  each  pint  of  potato  makes  the  dressing  richer. 
Before  trussing  the  goose,  remove  all  the  extra  fat. 
This  should  be  saved  and  tried  out  later  for  that  sover- 
eign remedy  for  croup, — "  goose  grease."  It  is  of  no 
value,  however,  in  cooking  and  if  left  in  the  bird,  gives  a 
coarse,  rank  flavor.  Season  the  goose  on  the  inside  with 
salt  and  pepper,  then  stuff  and  truss  it  into  shape  like 
a  turkey.  Rub  over  lightly  with  vegetable  oil  or  butter, 
or  cover  the  breast  with  several  thin  slices  of  fat  salt 
pork.  This  keeps  the  skin  moist.  Put  into  a  well- 
greased  bag  of  goodly  proportions,  or  better  still,  two 
bags,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  seal  and  set  in 
a  very  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes.  Then  reduce  the 
heat  about  half  and  cook  until  done,  allowing  twenty-two 
minutes  to  the  pound.  Serve  with  apples  baked  in  a 
bag,  mashed  turnips  or  squash  and  hot  corn  bread  that 
can  also  be  cooked  in  a  bag. 

Sage  and  Potato  Stuffing. —  Should  you  give  the 
preference  to  the  old-fashioned  potato-and-sage  stuffing, 
Such  as  your  grandmother  used  to  make,  fashion  it  in 
this  way:  peel  and  boil  for  half  an  hour  a  half  dozen 
good-sized  potatoes.  Mash  well  and  season  with  one 
tablespoonful  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  pepper,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  onions  minced  fine,  and  cooked  in  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sage.  Mix 
lightly  and  stuff. 

Bag  Roasted  Young  Guinea  Fowl. — It  is  but  a  few 
years  ago  comparatively  that  the  excellence  of  the 
guinea  fowl  for  the  table  was  duly  recognized.  Most 
people  were  afraid  to  try  them.  Now  the  guinea  is  not 
only  being  served  in  all  the  best  restaurants,  but  in  many 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   55 

private  homes  as  well.  While  the  young  guineas  make 
the  choicest  eating,  the  old  birds  are  not  to  be  despised. 
In  stuffing  the  guinea  any  approved  turkey  stuffing  may 
be  used,  the  accompaniments  being  as  with  turkey,  gib- 
let  gravy  and  cranberry  sauce.  In  roasting  a  very  little 
water  goes  into  the  bag,  instead  thin  pieces  of  fat,  salt 
pork  are  skewered  across  the  breast  and  around  the  drum 
sticks. 

Bag  Broiled  Young  Guinea  Hen.— For  bag  broil- 
ing, split  down  the  back  and  flatten.  Brush  over  with 
vegetable  oil  or  melted  butter,  put  in  buttered  bag  and 
bake  in  gas  oven  or  hot  coal  oven.  Lay  on  a  hot  platter, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  spread  with  a  rounding 
tablespoonful  butter  stirred  with  a  tablespoonful  finely 
minced  parsley,  garnish  with  watercress  and  little 
moulds  or  spoonfuls  of  cranberry  jelly  and  serve. 

Quail. — As  for  cooking  quail  there  is  no  better  way 
than  to  roast  them  plain,  with  plenty  of  red  pepper  and 
a  little  salt.  For  those  who  prefer,  an  excellent  way  is 
to  serve  them  with  bacon,  which  supplies  the  fat  which 
all  game  birds  lack. 

Take  a  half  dozen  quail,  wipe  with  a  damp  cloth, 
split  them  and  break  the  leg  bones.  Mix  together  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pure  olive  or  cotton  seed  oil,  a  dash  of  cay- 
enne and  a  tiny  bit  of  salt.  Brush  the  birds  with  this  mix- 
ture and  put  in  well  greased  bag,  seal,  put  in  oven  and 
roast  fifteen  minutes.  Arrange  six  slices  of  delicately 
browned  toast  on  a  hot  platter,  place  the  birds  on  the 
slices  and  baste  with  a  mixture  of  good  butter,  minced 
parsley  and  the  juice  of  a  half  dozen  lemons.  Garnish 
with  slices  of  crisped  bacon  and  watercress. 

Quail  No.  2. — Place  four  quail  in  a  wooden  dish  with 
a  link  of  sausage  between  the  birds  and  a  strip  of  bacon 


56   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

laid  on  each.     Put  in  bag,  seal,  and  bake  twenty-five 
minutes. 

Stuffed  Quail. —  Put  into  each  bird  a  half  prune  or 
fat  raisin,  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  a  few  well  seasoned 
bread  crumbs.  Wrap  each  bird  in  a  slice  of  bacon, 
fastening  with  string  or  tooth  picks  and  put  in  well  but- 
tered bag.  Seal  and  place  on  broiler  and  bake  about 
twenty-five  minutes,  reducing  the  heat  during  the  last 
half  of  the  time. 

Rabbit  Cookery. —  In  selecting  a  rabbit  the  principal 
thing  is  to  find  out  the  age  and  also  how  long  hung.  A 
rabbit  should  be  ripe  but  not  gamy.  Unless  in  cold 
storage,  they  should  not  be  kept  for  more  than  two  or 
three  days.  The  age  of  a  rabbit  may  be  determined  by 
testing  the  paw.  If  there  is  a  little  nut  there  and  the 
paw  may  be  broken  readily  between  the  thumb  and 
finger  the  rabbit  is  young.  If  the  nut  has  disappeared 
and  the  paw  resists  pressure,  the  rabbit  is  too  venerable 
for  anything  but  a  stew.  In  dressing  a  rabbit  there  is  a 
little  secret  that  enables  the  cook  to  dispose  of  the 
gamy  odor  that  so  many  object  to.  If  the  thin,  muscu- 
lar membrane  that  extends  from  the  flank  over  the  in- 
testines is  carefully  removed  before  cooking,  the  strong 
flavor  will  go  with  it,  leaving  the  flesh  delightfully 
sweet.  The  gall  bladder  in  the  liver  must  also  be  re- 
moved with  extreme  care,  so  as  not  to  break  it. 

Barbecued  Rabbit. —  Open  plump  young  rabbits  all 
the  way  down  the  under  side,  wash  and  clean  thoroughly. 
Lay  out  flat  in  a  pan  of  salt  and  water  for  an  hour,  with 
a  weighted  plate  or  saucer  on  top  to  hold  under  the 
water.  Wipe  dry  and  gash  across  the  backbone  in  eight 
or  ten  places  and  having  brushed  it  over  with  olive  oil 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   57 

or  melted  butter,  bag  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  forty-five 
minutes. 

Lay  on  a  hot  dish,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  plenty 
of  melted  butter,  then  set  in  the  oven  for  the  butter  to 
soak  in.  Heat  in  a  small  cup  two  tablespoonfuls  vine- 
gar with  one  of  made  mustard  and  brush  over  the  rabbit 
while  boiling  hot.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  watercress 
and  serve  alone  or  with  a  currant  jelly  sauce. 

Roast  Rabbit. — Stuff,  truss,  dredge  with  flour  and 
rub  all  over  with  vegetable  oil,  soft  butter  or  good  drip- 
pings. Season  lightly  with  salt  and  paprika  or  black 
pepper,  place  in  wood  cookery  dish  in  well  greased  bag, 
seal  and  place  in  hot  oven.  Allow  fifty  minutes,  reducing 
the  heat  at  the  end  of  the  first  twenty  minutes. 

Roast  Rabbit  No.  2. — For  an  older  rabbit,  put  into 
a  stew  kettle  whole  without  dividing  the  pieces  from  the 
body.  Pour  in  one  quart  of  water,  add  a  little  pinch  of 
soda  when  it  starts  to  boil,  and  stew  gently  until  tender. 
When  tender  take  from  the  broth.  Meantime  mix  to- 
gether three  large  cupfuls  dried  bread  crumbs,  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut  and  salt,  pepper  and  sage  to  taste. 
Pour  enough  of  the  broth  over  this  to  mix  rather  soft. 
Stuff  the  rabbit,  spread  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  lay  in  a  buttered  bag  and  bake  to  a  rich 
brown  in  a  moderate  oven.  It  will  not  take  more  than  a 
few  moments.  Make  a  good  brown  gravy,  adding  onion 
browned  in  butter  if  desired.  A  little  onion  may  also  be 
added  to  the  dressing,  according  to  preference. 

Stewed  Rabbit. — Cut  in  eight  pieces,  salt  and  pepper 
and  put  in  buttered  wooden  dish,  set  in  a  buttered 
bag  with  a  finely  chopped  onion,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  a  quarter  cupful  stock  or  hot  water 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  stirred  smooth  with 


58   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

a  little  cold  water,  then  blended  with  the  hot.     Seal  the 
bag  and  bake  forty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Reed  Birds. — Most  of  the  reed  birds  obtained  in  our 
markets  are  in  reality  nothing  but  sparrows,  and  those 
undrawn.  If  fed  on  grain,  as  they  are  in  Chicago,  they 
are  really  very  nice.  To  bake,  wrap  each  one  in  a  thin 
slice  of  bacon  or  salt  pork,  put  in  buttered  bag,  seal 
and  cook  in  a  quick  oven.  Still  more  delectable  are  they 
cooked  en  surprise.  For  a  half  dozen  covers,  prepare 
the  same  number  of  birds,  six  large  oval  potatoes,  six 
oysters,  and  some  thin  slices  of  bacon.  Prepare  the 
birds  as  for  roasting,  and  tuck  into  each  little  interior  an 
oyster,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  wrap  each 
bird  in  a  slice  of  bacon.  Now,  having  the  potatoes  well 
scrubbed,  cut  off  one  end,  and  using  a  vegetable  scoop, 
cut  out  a  hollow  in  each  large  enough  to  hold  a  bird, 
Insert  the  bird,  replace  the  end  of  the  potato,  cut  off,  tie 
in  place,  put  in  buttered  bag  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  as  soon  as  done,  removing  the  string.  The 
flavor  of  the  bird,  oysters  and  potato  makes  a  delicious 
combination  that  cannot  be  surpassed.  Serve  simply 
with  butter,  or  if  preferred,  a  mushroom  or  oyster  sauce. 

Squab. — In  cleaning  a  squab,  take  care  not  to  break 
the  little  sack  that  holds  the  entrails.  Split  the  birds 
down  the  back,  rub  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter  or  oil. 
Sprinkle  with  cracker  dust  and  put  into  well-buttered 
bag.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  and  serve  on  slices  of  crisp, 
hot,  buttered  toast  with  or  without  a  thin,  crispy  slice 
of  bacon.  Garnish  with  cress  or  parsley. 

Barbecued  Squirrel,  (Southern  Style.) — Get  two 
fat  squirrels,  skin  and  draw.  Cut  the  thin  skin  on  each 
side  of  the  stomach  close  to  the  ribs,  then  wipe  with 


STANDARD  PAPER;  BAG  COOKERY   59 

damp  cloth.  Sprinkle  with  black  pepper  but  use  no  salt. 
Put  a  layer  of  fat  bacon  in  a  wooden  dish,  set  in  a  well 
greased  bag  and  lay  the  squirrels  on  this  bed.  Cover 
with  more  thin  slices  of  bacon  pour  in  the  bag  a  half 
cupful  good  broth,  seal,  and  bake  an  hour  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Serve  with  grape  jelly  or  spiced  grapes. 

Turkey  a  la  Bonham. —  Pick  out  a  young  hen  tur- 
key, plump  and  delicate  with  small  bones.  Carefully  re- 
move all  pin  feathers  and  complete  the  drawing  which 
may  have  been  imperfectly  done  by  the  butcher.  Cut  off 
the  neck  close  to  the  body  which  will  make  the  turkey 
fit  in  the  bag  better,  and  make  a  proper  appearance 
when  placed  on  the  table.  Wash  thoroughly  inside  and 
out  and  wipe  dry.  For  the  stuffing  make  two  kinds — one 
for  the  body  and  one  for  the  breast.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  make  these  different  so  as  to  suit  all  tastes.  For  the 
body,  make  a  chestnut  stuffing.  Boil  and  peel  one  quart 
of  large  chestnuts  and  mash  with  a  fork.  Season  with 
pepper,  salt  and  a  little  butter.  For  the  breast,  take  a 
pint  of  bread  crumbs  free  from  crusts.  Fry  a  half  onion 
cut  fine  in  a  very  little  butter  or  vegetable  oil  until  ten- 
der but  not  brown.  Season  nicely  with  chopped  parsley 
and  thyme,  not  too  much.  Salt  and  pepper  and  moisten 
with  one  beaten  egg.  Fill  the  breast  and  sew  body  and 
breast  neatly,  pulling  the  skin  of  the  breast  over  the 
stuffing,  and  fastening  in  place  with  the  wings  which 
should  be  turned  back  to  hold  the  skin  in  place.  Rub 
the  outside  of  the  bird  with  flour  mixed  with  salt  and 
pepper,  cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  tied 
on.  Now  slip  breast  down  into  a  thoroughly  greased  bag 
or  preferably  two  bags,  one  outside  the  other, 
the  outside  one  also  well  greased.  Lay  some 
of  the  fat  from  the  turkey  or  a  few  strips  of  bacon 
over  the  bag,  and  put  on  the  grate,  seam  up.  Slip  under 


60   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

the  grid  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven  a  dripping  pan  half 
full  of  water  to  keep  the  bird  moist,  and  prevent  any  fat 
leaking  through  in  case  the  bag  should  burst.  Be  care- 
ful not  to  let  the  bag  touch  the  side  of  the  oven.  Light 
both  burners  of  the  gas  stove  for  five  minutes  to  get  the 
oven  hot  for  the  start.  Turn  out  one  and  roast  about  an 
hour  and  three-quarters  for  a  twelve  pound  bird.  Lift 
out  carefully,  sliding  the  pancake  turner  under  it  to  get 
it  out  easily  and  put  it  on  hot  platter. 

For  the  gravy,  clean  the  giblets  thoroughly  and  put  to 
cook  with  the  neck  in  water  to  cover  well.  Add  one 
onion  cut  up  and  cook  until  tender.  Chop  fine  and 
thicken  slightly  with  browned  flour  or  caramel  which  is 
simply  sugar  browned  in  a  pan  with  a  little  boiling 
water. 

Venison. — For  roasting,  the  saddle  is  best.  As  the 
meat  is  naturally  dry,  it  must  be  well  larded  with  strips 
of  firm  fat  pork.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  rub 
over  with  pork  drippings.  Put  in  large  well  greased 
bag,  add  two  glasses  of  port  or  claret,  seal  and  bake  in 
moderate  oven.  For  a  roast  of  three  pounds,  allow  an 
hour  and  ten  minutes.  For  an  eight  pound  roast,  two 
hours  and  a  half.  Serve  very  hot  with  red  or  black  cur- 
rant jelly. 

Venison  Steak. — Prepare  in  the  regular  way,  place 
in  wooden  cookery  dish  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Put  in  bag.  Seal  and  cook  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes. 
The  wooden  dishes  add  to  the  flavor  of  all  game. 


CHAPTER  X. 
BEEF. 

Bullock's  Heart.- — THIS  is  an  inexpensive  portion  of 
the  beef,  but  a  very  tasty  one  when  properly  cooked.  It 
should  always  be  served  on  very  hot  dishes,  both  plates 
and  platter.  If  you  elect  to  roast  your  heart,  put  in  a 
basin  of  warm  water  and  let  soak  for  an  hour  to  draw 
out  the  blood.  Wipe  dry,  brush  with  oil  or  butter  and 
tie  or  skewer  in  shape.  Put  in  well  greased  bag  and 
roast  about  two  hours.  Serve  with  a  border  of  carrots 
sliced  and  fried. 

Stewed  Bullock's  Heart. — Soak  in  a  basin  of  warm 
water  for  an  hour,  then  drain  and  wipe  dry.  Cut  in 
halves,  rub  each  side  with  flour  and  put  in  a  frying  pan 
with  a  little  hot  butter.  As  soon  as  browned,  transfer  to 
a  buttered  bag,  adding  four  or  five  onions  sliced  and 
browned  lightly  in  the  same  butter,  together  with  a  sprig 
of  thyme  and  salt  and  pepper  to  season.  Add  a  half  cup- 
ful of  water  and  cook  slowly  about  three  hours. 

Filet  of  Beef. — Cut  from  the  end  of  a  tenderloin  o£ 
beef,  slices  about  5-8  of  an  inch  thick.  Flatten  down  to 
about  3-8  of  an  inch  and  trim  round.  Salt  lightly  on 
both  sides,  dust  with  pepper,  and  lay  in  a  little  hot 
melted  butter,  flavored  with  a  tiny  scraping  of  garlic  for 
an  hour,  turning  three  or  four  times  in  the  meantime. 
Take  out,  put  in  a  well  buttered  bag,  seal  and  cook 
twenty-five  minutes.  Serve  on  small  pieces  of  toast  that 
have  been  spread  with  butter  and  browned  in  a  bag, 
pouring  over  them  the  juice  of  the  meat  that  will  have 
collected  in  the  bag. 

61 


62   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Hamburg  Steak. —  Hamburg  steak,  which  is  too  of- 
ten a  delusion  and  a  snare  as  furnished  by  the  inexperi- 
enced cook,  can  be  so  manipulated  in  paper  bag  cookery 
as  to  emerge  a  very  delectable  and  decorative  dish.  In 
the  first  place  never  telephone  for  hamburg  steak  nor 
buy  that  already  chopped  and  mounded  ostentatiously 
on  a  platter  with  a  garnish  of  parsley.  Naturally  the 
butcher  works  up  his  trimmings  and  inferior  cuts  into 
this  comparatively  inexpensive  and  much  patronized 
form.  Having  purchased  your  cut  of  round  steak  in  the 
slice,  its  lack  of  natural  fat  must  be  made  up  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  little  beef  suet  (preferably  from  the  kidney). 
A  piece  of  suet  the  size  of  a  butter  nut  may  be  allowed 
to  each  pound  of  lean  meat.  Next,  if  possible,  get  the 
butcher  to  chop  it  by  hand  rather  than  by  the  easier-to- 
him  method  of  running  it  through  the  meat  grinder.  Now 
having  your  good  meat  at  home  it  may  be  prepared  in 
any  one  of  a  half  dozen  ways.  For  the  Hamburg  steaks, 
press  lightly  together  into  cakes  about  the  size  of  a  chop. 
If  onion  is  desired  a  little  onion  juice  may  be  added 
with  discretion,  but  for  most  tastes  boiled  onions  served 
separately,  to  accompany  the  steak,  will  be  found  pre- 
ferable, or  a  few  rings  of  raw  onion  added  to  a  lettuce 
salad.  The  closely  packed  Hamburg  steak  is  bound  to 
be  tough  and  dry.  Better  add  a  beaten  egg  to  hold  the 
chopped  meat  together  than  press  the  small  and  delicate 
particles  of  meat  compactly. 

Season  lightly,  brush  over  with  oil  or  melted  butter 
and  lay  in  buttered  bag.  Seal  and  roast  for  half  an 
hour.  Take  up  on  a  hot  platter,  season,  add  a  little 
melted  butter  mixed  with  finely  chopped  parsley  and 
serve  hot  with  baked  or  mashed  potatoes.  A  tomato 
sauce  may  go  with  the  steaks  or  a  brown  gravy  made 
from  beef  stock.  A  pleasant  change  in  the  appearance 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   63 

of  Hamburg  steak  can  be  effected  by  shaping  it.  to 
look  like  lamb  chops.  When  these  are  bag  broiled  with 
a  bit  of  marcaroni  in  each  end  to  simulate  the  chop  bone 
they  can  be  arranged  to  stand  on  a  bed  of  parsley 
stacked  against  a  pretty  bowl  containing  tomato  sauce 
or  stewed  tomato,  a  spoonful  of  which  is  to  be  served 
with  each  portion.  The  bed  on  which  the  chops  are  to 
rest  may  be  mashed  potato  or  peas,  if  preferred  to  the 
parsley. 

Pot  Roast. — While  this  does  not  eliminate  washing 
the  pot,  the  juices  and  flavor  of  the  beef  are  so  con- 
served that  instead  of  the  usual  dry  pot-roast  it  is  moist 
and  tender  and  so  well  worth  the  trouble. 

Peel  and  slice  a  good  sized  onion  and  brown  in  a 
round  bottomed  iron  pot  with  a  piece  of  beef  suet.  Wash 
a  four  or  five  pound  piece  of  bottom  round,  place  in  the 
pot  without  any  water  and  brown  quickly  on  all  sides, 
turning  it  without  piercing  with  a  fork.  When  very 
brown  add  a  small  cup  of  water,  push  it  back  and  let 
simmer  for  one  hour,  turning  frequently.  Season  and 
cook  for  ten  minutes  longer,  then  place  it  in  a  well 
greased  bag,  seal  and  put  in  a  hot  oven  on  a  broiler,  add- 
ing about  a  cupful  of  the  liquid  in  which  it  was  cooking, 
before  sealing.  Reduce  the  heat  of  the  oven  after  ten 
minutes  and  cook  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours  ac- 
cording to  size.  Potatoes  may  be  peeled  and  browned 
in  the  gravy  left  in  the  pot.  When  done,  the  liquid  in 
the  bag  should  be  added  to  that  in  the  pot  and  thick- 
ened for  gravy,  first  skimming  off  the  fat  if  too  rich. 

Rib  Roast  of  Beef.— Grease  the  roast  lightly  with 
idrippings  or  vegetable  oil,  season  with  pepper,  but  not 
with  salt,  dust  lightly  with  flour  and  place  in  well 
greased  bag,  seal,  and  place  in  a  hot  oven,  at  the  end 


64   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

of  fifteen  minutes,  reduce  the  heat  one-half  and  continue 
cooking  for  half  an  hour  longer  in  case  of  a  three  pound 
roast  or  for  a  seven  pound  one,  a  little  over  an  hour. 

Roast  Round  of  Beef  in  Paper  Bag.— Get  three  or 
four  pounds  of  beef  from  top  round,  asking  the  butcher 
for  a  high  chunky  piece — not  a  slab — from  the  tenderest, 
juiciest  part.  Have  him  tie  it  up  securely  and  add  a 
piece  of  suet.  Well  grease  the  bag  inside.  Season  and 
flour  the  meat,  place  a  small  piece  of  suet  on  top,  insert 
in  bag,  fasten  with  paper  clips,  and  put  on  a  broiler  in 
a  hot  oven,  reducing  the  heat  after  about  five  minutes. 
Allow  fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound.  It  will  be  a  rich 
brown  on  the  outside  but  rare  and  juicy.  With  an  ex- 
ceptionally sharp  carving  knife  the  meat  should  be  cut 
in  very  thin,  appetizingly  rare  and  tender  slices. 

This  is  a  most  economical  and  nutritious  roast,  having 
no  waste  in  bones  and  trimmings,  and  if  cut  from  good 
beef  is  as  delicious  as  a  porterhouse  roast. 

Sauer  Braten.—  Rub  a  solid  piece  of  the  round  of 
beef  with  vinegar,  dust  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
a  bit  of  bay  leaf  rubbed  to  a  powder.  Let  the  meat 
stand  over  night  or  twelve  hours.  Cut  several  slashes 
in  the  meat,  put  in  two  small  onions  cut  in  quarters  and 
two  carrots  cut  in  strips  and  the  same  amount  of  turnip. 
Dust  a  pinch  of  poultry  seasoning  or  sweet  herbs  over. 
Lay  three  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  in  the  well  greased 
paper  bag,  add  a  half  cupful  boiling  water  and  if  there 
is  room  in  the  bag  tuck  in  a  few  more  carrots  or  onions. 
Seal  and  place  in  a  very  hot  oven  for  eight  minutes, 
then  reduce  the  heat  at  least  half,  and  cook  about  two 
hours.  Have  a  dripping  pan  with  an  inch  of  water  in  it, 
set  under  the  oven  rack  so  that  if  by  any  mischance  the 
bag  should  burst,  nothing  would  be  lost.  The  steam 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   65 

from  the  water  in  the  pan  serves  the  same  purpose  as 
wetting  the  bag  before  filling,  keeping  it  from  becoming 
too  brittle.  Two  bags  will  be  found  better  than  one  in 
this  case. 

Beef  Steak. —  Wipe  the  meat,  trim  off  extra  fat  and 
brush  over  with  oil  or  butter.  Season  lightly  with  salt 
and  pepper,  put  in  well-greased  bag,  seal,  place  on 
grid  in  very  hot  oven  and  cook  from  fifteen  to  eighteen 
minutes,  according  to  thickness  of  steak.  At  the  last, 
pierce  a  few  holes  in  the  top  of  the  bag,  if  there  is  any 
doubt  about  the  steak  being  sufficiently  browned.  Take 
up  on  hot  platter  and  spread  with  parsley  butter,  pour- 
ing any  gravy  remaining  in  the  pan  over  the  meat. 

Toledo  Beef  Steak. — Place  a  top  sirloin  steak  in  a 
wood  cookery  dish,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
place  in  bag.  Seal  and  cook  twenty  minutes.  Remove 
from  the  oven,  open  the  bag  and  turn  the  steak.  Spread 
over  the  top  a  little  dry  mustard  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  drawn  butter  and  a  large 
tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce.  Place  on  the 
top  grate  of  the  oven  without  the  bag,  and  leave  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  until  crisp  and  brown. 

Stuffed  Roast  Beef  or  "  Mock  Duck."— Take  two 
flank  steaks  or  one  large  round  steak.  If  the  former, 
sew  together  with  coarse  strong  cotton,  leaving  one  side 
open  like  a  bag  to  be  filled  with  the  dressing.  If  the 
latter,  place  on  the  meat  board  and  spread  with  a  dress- 
ing made  from  mashed  potato,  well  seasoned,  sweet  po- 
tatoes sliced  and  seasoned,  or  a  forcemeat  made  from  two 
cupfuls  bread  crumbs,  a  quarter  cup  butter  or  vege- 
table oil,  in  which  a  chopped  onion  has  been  cooked, 
with  salt,  pepper  and  cloves  to  season.  The  Germans 
like  a  half  cupful  of  seeded  raisins  or  chopped  prunes 


66   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

added  to  this.  Roll  the  meat  about  the  filling  and  tie 
with  strips  of  cotton  cloth,  or  if  you  are  using  the  flank 
steak,  stuff  the  pocket  and  tie  in  shape.  Butter  the 
pocket  or  roll  well  on  the  outside,  slip  into  a  large  well 
buttered  bag,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  broth  or  hot  water, 
seal,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  ten  minutes. 

Reduce  the  heat  and  cook  forty  or  fifty  minutes  more 
according  to  weight  of  the  steak.  A  second  bag  over 
the  first  is  advised  here  when  the  roll  is  heavy. 


CHAPTER  XI. 
LAMB  AND  MUTTON. 

THE  paper  bag  seems  made  expressly  for  lamb  and 
mutton  cookery. 

Breast  of  Lamb  With  Tomato  Sauce.—  Get  three 
pounds  breast  of  lamb,  boil  until  tender,  and  slip  out  the 
bones.  This  is  best  done  the  day  before  you  are  to  bag 
it.  Half  an  hour  before  serving,  egg,  crumb,  season  and 
put  in  a  well  greased  bag.  Seal  and  put  in  a  very  hot 
oven  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Lamb  Chops. —  If  you  use  the  rib  chops  have  them 
frenched,  saving  the  trimmings  for  the  stock  pot.  If  you 
have  the  loin  chops,  skewer  to  keep  in  shape.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  brush  over  with  oil  or  melted 
butter.  Put  in  a  well-greased  bag,  seal,  place  on  the 
grid  shelf  in  a  hot  oven,  and  cook  for  ten  or  fifteen  min- 
utes according  to  the  thickness  of  the  chop.  When  done 
put  on  a  hot  platter  and  spread  with  parsley  or  mint 
butter. 

Lamb  or  Mutton  Cutlets  With  Tomatoes. — Cut 
the  best  end  of  the  neck  into  neat  cutlets,  flatten  and 
trim.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  brush  with  melted 
butter  or  oil,  sprinkle  with  mint  or  chopped  parsley  and 
chives,  and  place  in  a  buttered  bag,  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  tomato  on  each  chop.  Seal  and  cook  in  hot  oven 
twelve  or  fifteen  minutes. 

67 


68   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Lamb  Fry. — Wash  thoroughly  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
lamb's  fry  and  put  in  a  pan  of  cold  water.  Simmer  five 
minutes,  lift  out  and  pat  dry  on  a  soft  cloth.  Divide  in 
nice  pieces,  dip  in  a  batter  made  of  one  egg,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  milk,  salt  and  pepper  to  season  and  flour 
to  make  of  the  consistency  of  cream.  Arrange  these 
pieces  in  a  buttered  bag.  Seal  and  bake  ten  minutes. 
Serve  with  fried  parsley. 

Lamb's  Kidney. — >  Skin,  split,  dip  in  butter  and  place 
on  skewer.  Dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  in 
buttered  bag.  Seal,  place  in  hot  oven  and  cook  eight 
minutes. 

Leg  of  Mutton  Cooked  in  Cider. —  Buy  the  leg  of 
mutton  two  or  three  days  before  you  wish  to  serve  it. 
Take  off  the  "  woolly  "  skin  that  has  the  strong  taste  on 
the  outside  and  wipe  carefully  with  a  damp  cloth.  Then 
rub  with  a  mixture  of  spices,  using  half  a  teaspoonful 
each  of  cinnamon,  cloves,  allspice,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 
Rub  thoroughly  and  hang  the  mutton  in  a  cool  place  for 
two  days;  then  put  in  a  well-greased  bag,  adding  four 
onions  chopped  fine,  a  cupful  seedless  raisins  and  a  cup- 
ful of  sweet  cider.  Put  in  hot  oven  and  bake  half  an 
hour,  then  reduce  the  heat,  and  cook  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Serve  with  a  hot  cider  sauce. 

Mutton  Chops  and  Sausage. — Place  two  thick  chops 
in  a  wooden  dish  with  three  links  of  sausage.  Season 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  lay  two  strips  of  bacon 
over  the  top  of  the  chops  and  seal  in  bag.  Bake  from 
twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Ragout  of  Lamb. — Grease  the  bag  well,  and  lay  in  a 
layer  of  sliced  raw  potatoes,  seasoned  lightly.  Put  on 
top  of  the  potatoes  a  layer  of  meat,  seasoned  with  salt, 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   69 

pepper  and  chopped  parsley,  and  lay  thin  slices  of  onion 
across  meat.  Add  one-half  cup  canned  tomato  or  to- 
mato sauce,  cover  the  whole  with  another  layer  of  sliced 
potato,  seal,  and  bake  thirty-five  minutes.  You  may  use 
a  wooden  cooking  dish  here  to  advantage. 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb. —  Trim  nicely  and  rub  over 
with  oil,  dredge  with  a  little  flour  and  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  powdered  mint.  Seal  and  bake  two  hours. 
Serve  with  mint  sauce. 

A  Genuine  Irish  Stew. —  Cut  two  pounds  of  chops 
from  the  best  end  of  a  neck  of  mutton,  and  pare  away 
nearly  all  the  fat.  A  portion  of  the  breast  may  be  cut 
into  squares  and  used,  but  a  neck  of  mutton  is  the  best 
joint  for  the  purpose.  Take  as  many  potatoes  as  will 
amount  after  peeling  to  twice  the  weight  of  the  meat. 
Slice  them  with  eight  large  onions  sliced.  Put  a  layer 
of  mixed  potatoes  and  onions  at  the  bottom  of  the  but- 
tered paper  bag.  Place  the  meat  on  this  and  season  it 
plentifully  with  pepper  and  lightly  with  salt.  Pack 
closely,  and  cover  the  meat  with  another  layer  of  potato 
and  onion.  Pour  in  as  much  water  or  stock  as  will 
moisten  the  topmost  layer,  seal  tightly,  and  let  the  con- 
tents cook  gently  for  two  and  a  half  hours.  You  may  use 
one  of  the  large  wooden  cooking  dishes  here. 


CHAPTER  XII. 
PORK  IN  VARIED  FORMS. 

Bacon  and  Apples.— CORE,  but  do  not  peel,  well 
flavored  apples  and  cut  in  crosswise  rings  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  thick.  Lay  on  thin  slices  of  streaky  bacon 
in  a  well  buttered  bag,  dust  lightly  with  sugar,  seal  and 
cook  eight  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Bacon  and  Bananas. — Peel  firm  bananas,  halve  them 
lengthwise,  dust  lightly  with  pepper  and  wrap  each  in  a 
thin  slice  of  streaky  bacon.  Put  in  a  well  greased  bag, 
seal  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  ten  minutes. 

Bacon  and  Calf's  Liver. — Pour  boiling  water  over 
thin  slices  of  calf's  liver  and  let  stand  ten  minutes. 
Drain,  pat  dry  and  dredge  with  flour,  seasoning  with 
pepper  and  a  little  salt.  Lay  slices  of  bacon  in  a  greas- 
ed bag  and  on  top  put  a  layer  of  the  liver,  seal  and  bake 
fifteen  minutes.  Serve  on  hot  platter. 

Baked  Pork  Chops. —  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
then  cover  each  side  of  the  chops  with  a  forcemeat  made 
moist  enough  to  stick  to  them.  Place  in  a  well  greased 
bag,  adding  a  spoonful  of  water,  seal  and  bake  twenty- 
five  minutes. 

Pork  Chops  and  Sweet  Potatoes. — Select  six  sweet 
potatoes  of  uniform  size.  Peel,  cut  in  half  lengthwise, 
brush  each  piece  all  over  with  melted  butter  and  dredge 
lightly  with  powdered  sugar.  Place  in  a  thoroughly 

TO 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   71 

buttered  bag  flat  side  down.  On  top  of  them  put  pork 
chops,  seasoned,  rolled  in  flour  and  from  which  the  fat 
has  been  partly  trimmed.  Seal  and  bake  in  hot  oven 
on  broiler  for  twenty-five  minutes. 

Pork  chops  cooked  in  this  way  are  as  tender  as 
chicken,  not  hard  in  fibre  as  they  usually  are  when 
fried. 

Ham  and  Scalloped  Potatoes. —  Peel  and  slice  po- 
tatoes very  thin.  Put  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a  buttered 
bag  and  on  top  of  the  potatoes  a  layer  of  raw  ham  sliced 
very  thin,  and  with  the  most  of  the  fat  trimmed  off. 
Sprinkle  with  a  little  flour.  Add  little  bits  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour  and  salt  and  pepper  to  season.  Proceed 
in  this  way  until  the  desired  amount  is  obtained,  having 
the  top  layer  of  potatoes  sprinkled  with  flour  and  bits  of 
butter.  Turn  in  enough  sweet  milk  or  cream  to  come 
even  with  the  top  layer,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  or  un- 
til the  potatoes  are  tender.  The  trimmings  from  the  fat 
of  the  ham  can  be  used  in  place  of  the  butter  if  pre- 
ferred. One  of  the  wooden  cooking  dishes  is  convenient 
here. 

1  Ham,  Spinach  and  Lamb  Chops. — Place  two  or 
more  slices  of  ham  in  a  wood  cookery  dish.  Spread  over 
it  the  contents  of  a  small  can  of  spinach  and  on  top 
of  the  spinach  place  Frenched  lamb  chops.  Put  in 
greased  paper  bag,  and  surround  by  six  potatoes  pre- 
pared for  baking.  Close  the  bag,  and  bake  45  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven.  This  makes  a  very  easy  dinner — 
as  the  whole  meal  can  be  cooked  in  the  oven  without  hav- 
ing to  be  watched — and  the  mistress  of  the  house  can 
be  ready  dressed  to  entertain  guests  without  danger  of 
spoiling  her  frock  by  spattering  grease. 


72   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Stuffed  Fresh  Ham  or  Shoulder.  —  Have  tlie 
knuckle  and  bone  removed,  wash,  wipe  dry,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  fill  the  bone  space  with  a  forcemeat 
to  which  apples  or  stewed  prunes  have  been  added.  Sew 
or  skewer  into  shape,  then  lay  skin  side  up  in  a  large, 
well  greased  bag.  Add  a  half  cup  of  water  or  cider,  a 
few  slices  of  onion,  seal  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes  in 
a  very  hot  oven,  then  reduce  the  heat  one-half  and  bake 
an  hour. 

Roast  Loin  of  Pork. —  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, dredge  lightly  with  flour  and  put  into  a  greased  bag 
with  a  half  cup  of  water  or  tomato.  Seal  and  bake  an 
hour  and  a  half.  Serve  with  apples  baked  in  another 
bag. 

Roast  Spare-Rib.—  Cut  the  skin  of  the  spare-rib  in 
checks,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  put  in  a  well- 
greased  bag  surrounded  by  apples  or  sweet  potatoes  cut 
in  halves,  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

Baked  Sausage  With  Apples.— Put  links  of  sau- 
sage or  sausage  cakes  in  greased  bag,  and  surround  with 
well  flavored  apples  cored  and  cut  in  halves  but  not 
peeled.  Stand  the  apples  flesh  side  down.  Seal  and 
bake  fifteen  minutes. 

Baked  Sausage  and  Potato. — Get  the  best  country 
sausage  meat  and  mould  into  a  little  roll.  Dust  lightly 
with  flour  and  put  into  a  well  greased  bag.  Peel  enough 
potatoes  to  make  a  wall  about  the  meat  and  cut  them  in 
halves.  They  should  stand  with  the  cut  side  against  the 
meat.  Seal  the  bag  and  bake  about  thirty  minutes  until 
the  potatoes  are  tender  and  brown  and  the  sausage  well 
done.  If  desired,  use  the  drippings  that  come  from  the 
sausage  as  the  foundation  for  a  cream  gravy  to  serve 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   73 

with  the  sausage  or  serve  without  Sausage  cooked  in 
this  way  is  also  nice  sliced  cold  and  makes  appetizing 
sandwiches  for  the  school  lunch  basket. 

Baked  Sausage  With  Toast.— Put  a  half  dozen  link 
sausages  in  a  well-greased  bag,  separating  them  by 
as  many  slices  of  bread  cut  the  same  height.  Add  a  half 
cup  of  good  brown  sauce  and  a  few  mushrooms  if  desired. 
Seal  and  bake  twelve  minutes.  Serve  with  the  sauce 
and  a  little  minced  parsley  sprinkled  over  the  sausage. 

Baked  Sausage  With  Tomatoes.—  Put  into  the 
greased  bag  sausage  cakes  or  links.  Chop  fine  one  small 
onion,  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  parsley  and  two  tomatoes,  spread 
over  the  sausage,  seal  and  cook  twenty  minutes. 

Tenderloin  of  Pork. — Get  fat,  large  tenderloins  and 
have  them  split,  but  leave  connected  down  the  side.  Fill 
with  a  good  forcemeat  or  potato  dressing  well  seasoned, 
skewer  the  edges  together  or  tie  with  string,  put  in  well 
greased  bag  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  water  and  bake 
twenty  minutes.  Serve  with  curried  apples,  made  in  this 
way  and  baked  in  another  bag  at  the  same  time.  Peel 
and  core  the  apples  and  fill  the  cavities  with  a  mixture  of 
curry  powder,  grated  cheese  and  fine  breadcrumbs.  For 
eight  apples  use  four  tablespoon fuls  and  a  half  of  curry 
powder  and  eight  of  the  bread  crumbs.  Moisten  the 
mixture  with  milk.  Bag,  seal  and  bake.  These  apples 
are  nice  served  cold  with  cold  roast  pork. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
VEAL. 

Baked  Calf's  Liver. — ONE  calf's  liver  washed  and 
dried,  slashed  and  scored  inside.  Have  bread  dressing 
ready  well  seasoned  with  onions.  Stuff  the  liver  with 
this  and  tie  with  cord.  Skewer  to  liver  with  toothpicks 
several  pieces  of  bacon,  put  a  little  hot  water  in  the  bag 
and  bake  at  least  one  hour  in  a  hot  over.  Send  to  table 
hot,  with  a  parsley  garnish. 

Calves'  Brains  in  Tempting  But  Inexpensive 
Ways. — Carefully  prepared  few  can  tell  the  difference 
between  sweetbreads  and  calves'  brains  though  the 
housewife  will  appreciate  the  fact  that  sweetbreads  cost 
about  four  times  as  much  as  the  brains.  In  whichever 
way  one  elects  to  cook  the  brains,  the  preliminary  treat- 
ment is  the  same.  Parboil  fifteen  minutes  in  water,  to 
which  has  been  added  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar.  After  this,  let  them  lie  in  cold 
water  a  few  moments,  then  remove  all  membranes  and 
dark  streaks.  They  are  now  ready  to  be  cooked  in  any 
way  preferred. 

Breaded  Brains.— Separate  the  lobes  of  a  pair  of 
brains  that  have  been  parboiled  as  directed.  Then  with 
a  sharp  knife  split  each  division.  Beat  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  lightly,  thin  slightly  with  cold  water  or  milk,  dip  the 
brains  in  this,  then  into  finely  rolled  crumbs.  Put  in  a 
buttered  bag  and  bake  twenty  minutes.  Serve  on  a  hot 

74 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   75 

dish  with  a  garnish  of  quarters  of  lemon  that  have  been 
rolled  in  finely  minced  parsley. 

Sweetbreads. — The  initial  treatment  of  sweet- 
breads, when  they  come  from  the  market,  is  always  the 
same.  Parboil  at  once  in  salted  water,  from  fifteen  to 
thirty  minutes,  never  allowing  them  to  boil.  Then 
plunge  into  ice  water  and  lemon  juice  or  vinegar  (a 
tablespoonful  to  a  quart  of  water)  and  leave  for  an  hour 
to  blanch  and  become  firm.  After  parboiling,  the  little 
strings  and  membranes  can  be  very  readily  removed. 
Now  they  are  ready  for  the  finishing  culinary  touch, 
in  anyway  the  cook  may  elect. 

Baked  Sweetbreads. — Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, roll  in  crumbs  then  beaten  egg  to  which  a  spoonful 
of  milk  has  been  added,  then  in  crumbs  again,  the  last 
time  having  the  crumbs  well  buttered.  Put  in  greased 
bag  and  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
Serve  on  toast  with  the  brown  gravy  poured  over  the 
slices. 

•  Sweetbreads  With  Bacon. — Slice  sweetbreads,  roll 
in  seasoned  crumbs,  then  in  egg  and  again  in  crumbs. 
Put  on  a  skewer,  alternating  with  slices  of  bacon  cut 
thin,  put  in  a  greased  bag,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in 
medium  oven. 

Larded  Sweetbreads. — Lard  the  boiled  sweetbreads 
with  strips  of  bacon  and  lemon  peel,  having  the  bacon  in 
the  centre  and  peel  on  the  sides.  Lay  in  paper  bag  with 
brown  gravy  to  half  cover,  and  let  them  bake  for  an 
hour,  or  until  brown.  Arrange  on  a  hot  dish,  thicken  the 
gravy  with  a  little  flour  and  season  with  catsup,  lemon 
juice  and  spices  to  taste.  Pour  over  the  sweetbreads  and 
serve  with  peas. 


76   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Sweetbreads  Straight. — Parboil  the  sweetbreads, 
take  off  the  skins,  dust  each  sweetbread  with  salt  and 
pepper  very  lightly  and  pour  over  each  a  tablespoonful 
of  cream.  Slip  the  sweetbreads  into  a  thickly  greased 
bag  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  slowly  for  forty  min- 
utes. Serve  on  a  hot  dish  with  a  border  of  asparagus  or 
green  peas. 

Vealettes. —  Purchase  veal  cuts  from  the  leg  in  slices 
as  large  as  one's  hand  and  about  half  an  inch  thick.  On 
each  slice  lay  a  large  tablespoonful  of  dressing  made 
from  seasoned  bread  crumbs,  a  beaten  egg  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter.  Roll  up  the  slices,  pinning 
with  toothpicks  to  keep  the  dressing  in.  Put  in  a  well 
greased  bag,  seal  and  bake  about  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  When  done,  thicken  the  gravy,  pour  over  the  veal 
and  serve  on  a  hot  platter. 

A  variation  in  vealettes  is  made  by  getting  from  the 
butcher  two  slices  of  veal  and  a  slice  of  ham  the  same 
size.  Put  together  like  a  sandwich  with  the  ham  in  the 
center  and  skewer  together.  Trim  the  edges  evenly  and 
bake  in  a  bag.  When  the  veal  is  done  take  up  on  a  hot 
platter,  thicken  the  drippings  remaining  in  the  bag,  add- 
ing enough  hot  water  to  make  a  good  consistency. 

Veal  Loaf. — Mince  three  pounds  raw  lean  veal  and 
a  quarter  pound  of  fine  fat  pork,  salt  or  fresh.  Season 
with  half  an  onion,  grated  fine,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
a  half  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a  half  teaspoonful  pow- 
dered thyme,  quarter  of  a  spoonful  sweet  marjoram,  the 
same  amount  Summer  savory  and  a  saltspoonful  celery 
salt.  Next  mix  in  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  rolled  cracker 
crumbs,  a  scant  cupful  veal  gravy  or  hot  milk,  the  yolk  of 
one  egg  and  the  whites  of  two  beaten  together  until  light. 
Mix  thoroughly  and  form  into  a  compact  loaf.  Roll  it 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   77 

until  coated  in  yolks  of  the  two  eggs  left  over,  then  in 
sifted  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  and  put  in  buttered  bag 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Roast  two  hours  and 
serve  cold,  cut  in  very  thin  slices. 

Shoulder  of  Veal  Stuffed  and  Braised.^-Buy  a 
shoulder  of  veal  and  ask  the  butcher  to  bone  it  and  send 
the  bones  with  the  meat.  Cover  the  bones  with  cold 
water  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil,  skim,  then  add  a  little 
onion  and  carrot,  a  few  seasoning  herbs  and  any 
spices  desired.  Simmer  gently  for  an  hour  or  so  until 
you  have  a  pint  of  stock.  To  make  the  stuffing,  take  a 
stale  loaf,  cut  off  the  crust  and  soak  in  a  little  cold  water 
until  soft.  Rub  the  crumb  of  the  loaf  as  fine  as  possible 
in  the  hands,  then  add  to  the  soaked  and  softened  crust. 
Chop  a  half  cupful  of  suet  fine,  put  into  a  frying  pan  a 
tablespoonful  of  the  suet,  and  when  hot  add  an  onion 
chopped  fine.  Cook  until  brown,  then  add  to  the  bread 
with  regular  poultry  seasoning  or  else  salt,  pepper  and 
a  bit  of  thyme.  Mix  well  and  stuff  the  cavity  in  the 
shoulder,  then  pull  the  flaps  of  the  meat  over  and  sew 
up.  Put  the  rest  of  the  suet  in  the  frying  pan,  and  hav- 
ing dusted  the  meat  with  flour,  salt,  pepper  and  a 
sprinkling  of  sugar,  brown  on  all  sides  in  the  fat.  Into 
the  bottom  of  the  bag  put  a  layer  of  thin  sliced  onion 
and  carrot,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  and  sprigs  of  parsley,  and 
on  this  lay  the  meat.  Add  two  or  three  cloves,  pour  the 
hot  stock  around  it,  cover  closely  and  braise  in  a  hot 
oven  for  two  and  a  half  hours. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
SAUCES  AND  GRAVIES. 

Bignon's  Sauce.  —  THIS  is  a  delightful  appetizer 
with  meats  cold  or  hot,  or  with  fish.  Chop  fine  equal 
parts,  say  one  tablespoonful  of  each,  capers,  parsley, 
chives,  gherkins,  tarragon  and  green  Chili  peppers. 
Mix  together;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne  and 
cover  with  tarragon  vinegar;  let  it  stand  an  hour  and 
add  three  tablespoonful s  of  oil  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
French  mustard. 

Bread  Sauce. — Mince  an  onion  and  boil  in  milk  until 
soft.  Then  strain  the  milk  over  one  cupful  of  grated 
bread  crumbs  and  stand  aside,  closely  covered,  for  an 
hour.  Add  the  minced  onion,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  pepper,  salt  and  a  bit  of  mace  to  season.  Set 
over  the  fire,  boil  up  and  serve  with  roasted  or  broiled 
birds. 

Brown  Sauce. — The  formula  for  this  is  the  same  as 
for  the  white  sauce,  except  that  the  butter  and  fat  are 
browned  before  the  flour  is  added,  or  browned  flour  is 
used  for  thickening.  Use  a  little  more  flour  proportion- 
ately, in  a  brown  sauce,  as  the  browning  destroys,  in  a 
measure,  the  thickening  qualities  of  the  flour.  Reduce 
with  brown  stock  or  water. 

With  this  as  foundation,  any  number  of  palatable 
sauces  can  be  invented  which  will  be  found  useful  in  dis- 
posing of  many  odds  and  ends  of  vegetables,  cold  meats 

78 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   79 

and  left-over  fish,  that  might  otherwise  "go  begging." 

Celery  Sauce. — Prepare  a  smooth,  white  sauce  by 
blending  over  the  fire  two  tablespoonfuls  each  butter, 
and  flour,  then  reducing  with  a  pint  of  warm  milk.  Add 
a  dozen  stalks  of  celery  that  have  been  minced  fine  and 
cooked  tender  in  just  enough  water  to  cover.  Cook  two 
minutes,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  with 
boiled  fowl. 

Currant  Jelly  Sauce. — This  makes  a  delicious  addi- 
tion to  roast  venison  or  mutton.  Cook  together  in  a 
saucepan  one  tablespoonful  butter  and  a  teaspoonful 
minced  onion.  When  the  onion  is  lightly  colored,  (not 
blackened)  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  stir  until 
smooth.  Add  gradually  a  half  cupful  stock,  stirring  all 
the  time,  and  when  it  boils  up  add  a  bit  of  bay  leaf,  a 
teaspoonful  vinegar,  a  half  teaspoonful  salt,  and  eighth 
teaspoonful  pepper,  one  clove,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
currant  jelly.  Simmer  five  minutes,  strain  and  serve 
hot. 

Curry  Sauce. — This  is  nice  with  any  delicate  meat 
or  fish  or  can  be  poured  over  boiled  rice  for  a  side 
dish.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  butter  in  a  saucepan,  then 
stir  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  flour.  Add  a  scant  table- 
spoonful  curry  powder  and  a  teaspoonful  onion  juice, 
and  cook  a  moment  or  two,  but  do  not  allow  them  to 
brown.  Stir  in  gradually  one  cupful  milk  and  cook  until 
smooth  and  thickened.  Add  a  cup  of  cream,  season  with 
salt  and  just  before  serving,  add,  if  you  like,  a  hard 
boiled  egg  chopped  fine. 

Hollandaise  Sauce. —  Put  one-half  cup  of  butter  in- 
to a  bowl  of  cold  water  and  wash  it  to  take  out  the  salt. 
Divide  it  into  three  parts  and  put  one-third  into  the  top 


80   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

of  a  double  boiler  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a 
tablespoon  of  lemon  juice.  Stir  and  cook  until  the  but- 
ter melts,  add  another  piece  of  butter  and  continue  stir- 
ring. As  the  sauce  thickens  stir  in  the  last  piece,  add 
one-third  cup  of  boiling  water,  a  speck  of  cayenne  and 
a  saltspoon  of  salt  and  cook  one  minute. 

Horseradish  Sauce. — Put  a  saucepan  over  the 
fire  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  half  tablespoon- 
ful  of  floor.  Stir  and  cook  two  minutes,  then  add  a  half 
cupful  of  strained  soup  stock  and  a  half  cupful  of  milk, 
six  whole  peppers,  a  bit  of  bay  leaf  and  an  even  half 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cook  five  minutes,  remove  bay  leaf 
and  peppers,  and  add  three  tablespoonfuls  grated  horse- 
radish. Cook  two  minutes  and  serve. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter.-  To  make  it,  rub  a  quarter 
cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream,  add  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a  good  dash  of  pepper,  white  or  paprika,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  fine  chopped  parsley  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
lemon  juice.  If  you  are  partial  to  nutmeg,  a  grating  of 
that  is  sometimes  added. 

Mexican  Sauce. — Take  four  large  tomatoes  or  the 
equivalent  in  canned,  three  green  peppers  and  one  onion. 
Chop  pepper  and  onion  in  a  wooden  bowl,  add  the  to- 
mato and  salt  and  pepper  to  season.  To  one-half  cupful 
of  vinegar,  add  the  drippings  from  four  slices  fried  ba- 
con, pour  over  the  chopped  vegetables  and  serve  in  in- 
dividual salad  dishes  as  an  accompaniment  to  meats. 

Mint  Sauce  for  Roast  Lamb. — Put  one  cup  of  vine- 
gar and  one  rounding  tablespoon  of  sugar  together  and 
stir  in  one-quarter  cup  of  finely  minced  mint.  Let  stand 
fifteen  minutes  before  it  is  served. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   81 

French  Mustard  Sauce,  Creole  Style. —  Work  to- 
gether three  tablespoonfuls  mustard  and  one  cupful 
sugar,  then  beat  in  one  egg  until  smooth.  Add  one  cup- 
ful of  vinegar  a  little  at  a  time,  set  over  the  fire  and  cook 
three  or  four  minutes  stirring  constantly.  When  cold 
add  one  tablespoonful  olive  oil  beating  all  well  together. 

An  Excellent  Mustard  Sauce  for  Cold  Meat. — 
Two  teaspoonfuls  flour,  one  teaspoonful  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoonful  mustard,  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Mash  all  to- 
gether, add  boiling  water,  to  make  thick  paste.  Beat 
constantly  till  lumps  are  all  out.  Add  sufficient  vinegar 
to  make  it  thinner.  Be  sure  the  water  is  boiling. 

Onion  Sauce.— Prepare  a  smooth  white  sauce  by 
blending  over  the  fire  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a 
tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  flour.  When  bubbly,  turn  in 
two  cupfuls  of  hot  milk,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  thick- 
ened. Add  two  large  boiled  onions  minced  fine,  cook  a 
moment,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  with 
poultry  or  boiled  veal. 

Spanish  Sauce. — For  veal,  lamb  or  mutton  chops, 
broiled  or  fried  fish,  chicken,  etc.  One  large  onion,  one 
full  section  of  garlic,  one-half  large  sweet,  green  or  red 
pepper.  Put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  olive  or  vegetable  oil.  When  effervescing 
stops  add  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  onion,  gar- 
lic and  green  pepper  which  has  been  finely  grated.  When 
this  begins  to  brown,  giving  it  time  to  cook  rather  well, 
add  four  good  sized  tomatoes,  skinned  and  chopped,  or 
the  thick  part  of  one  can  of  tomatoes.  Let  all  simmer 
for  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  with  occasional  stirring  to 
prevent  burning.  Add  salt  and  pepper,  paprika,  or  cay- 
enne to  taste,  two  tablespoonfuls  tomato  ketchup  and  one 
desertspoonful  Worcestershire  Sauce,  before  taking  off 


82   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

fire.  It  should  be  the  consistency  of  good  cream.  If  too 
thin,  cook  down,  or  if  too  thick  add  a  sufficient  amount  of 
boiling  water.  Use  red  pepper  as  a  seasoning. 

Thick  Tomato  Sauce. — Blend  over  the  fire  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour;  add  a  little  at  a  time,  and  stirring  all  the  while, 
one  large  cupful  of  tomato  juice.  Stir  until  the  mixture 
thickens;  then  season  to  taste  with  sugar,  salt  and  cay- 
enne pepper.  The  seasoning  may  sometimes  be  varied 
by  adding  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  chopped  onion  or 
even  both.  For  a  thinner  tomato  sauce — use  but  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour  to  each  cupful  of 
liquor. 

Sauce  Tartare. —  Make  first  a  good  mayonnaise,  then 
finish  with  the  addition  of  a  tablespoonful  each  of  chop- 
ped gherkins,  olives,  parsley  and  capers;  mix  together 
in  a  bowl  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  half  teaspoonful 
mustard,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar  and  a 
half  saltspoonful  of  pepper;  add  the  yolks  of  two  raw 
eggs  that  have  been  in  the  ice  box  long  enough  to  be  as 
cold  as  possible  and  beat  lightly;  measure  out  a  half  cup- 
ful of  olive  oil  and  have  this  cold  also ;  add  the  oil  slowly 
at  first,  then  as  it  begins  to  thicken  it  can  be  poured  in 
more  rapidly.  When  quite  thick,  add  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  then  the  chopped  ingredients.  This  will  keep 
several  weeks.  Tarragon  vinegar  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  cider  vinegar  if  preferred. 


CHAPTER  XV. 
RECOOKED  DISHES. 

Beef  Steak  Left  Overs.— MINCE  fine  and  for  eacK 
cup  of  meat  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  ham  and 
half  as  much  bread  crumbs  as  you  have  meat.  Moisten 
the  crumbs  with  a  little  hot  milk  and  add  to  the  meat. 
Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley  or 
substitute  a  little  sage  or  onion  juice  for  the  parsley. 
Beat  one  egg  light  and  add  to  the  other  ingredients. 
Make  into  a  brick  shaped  loaf,  grease  over  with  warmed 
butter  or  oil,  put  in  paper  bag  also  greased.  Seal  and 
bake  twenty-five  minutes.  Dish  on  a  hot  platter,  pour 
tomato  sauce  about  it  or  serve  with  horse  radish  sauce. 

Chicken  Croquettes. — To  one  solid  cupful  of  meat 
chopped  as  fine  as  powder,  add  one  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  half  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper.  Make  a 
pint  of  thick  cream  sauce,  allowing  to  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch  cooked  together  diluted  with  a  pint  of  hot  milk  or 
cream  and  stirred  and  cooked  until  smooth  and  thick. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  add  enough  to  the 
chicken  to  make  stiff  enough  to  handle  when  cold.  When 
cold  shape  into  balls,  roll  in  fine,  dry  bread  crumbs  and 
beaten  egg  diluted  with  a  little  water,  then  crumb  again 
and  place  in  well  greased  bag.  Seal  and  cook  ten  min- 
utes. 

83 


84   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Mock  Fried  Oysters. — To  two  cupfuls  cold  boiled 
rice,  add  one  tin  of  sardines,  from  which  all  bone  and 
skin  have  been  removed.  Roll  this  coarse  paste  into  flat, 
circular  cakes,  put  into  well-greased  bag  and  bake  fifteen 
minutes  in  moderate  oven. 

Turkey  Croquettes. — Chop  the  fragments  of  turkey 
or  other  left  over  meats  very  fine,  adding  for  seasoning 
a  small  portion  of  bologna,  ham  or  tongue  together  with 
a  bit  of  fine  minced  onion  or  onion  juice,  salt,  pepper 
and  parsley.  Make  a  thick  cream  sauce,  allowing  for  a 
pint  of  the  chopped  and  seasoned  meat  the  following 
portions: 

Put  into  a  saucepan  a  heaping  tablespoonful  butter 
and  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  As  soon  as  blend- 
ed, pour  in  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  stirring  until  thick  and 
smooth.  Salt  to  taste.  Add  the  meat  and  beat  until  well 
mixed. 

Season  more  highly  if  desired,  then  set  away  in  a 
cold  place  until  cold  and  stiffened.  Form  into  cones. 
Dip  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  fine  crumbs  and  place  in  a 
cold  place  again  until  quite  dry.  Bake  in  well  greased 
bag  and  stick  a  little  sprig  of  parsley  in  the  end  of  each 
cone  before  serving. 

Edinboro  Hot  Pot. — You  will  need  for  this  one 
pound  of  cold  meat  sliced  and  browned  in  sweet  drip- 
pings, one  large  onion  sliced  and  browned  in  the  same 
drippings,  a  half  tin  of  tomatoes,  a  half  dozen  cold 
boiled  or  baked  potatoes  sliced  and  a  little  good  stock 
made  from  the  bones  and  seasoning.  Put  a  layer  of 
meat  in  the  well  greased  bag  or  in  one  of  the  oval  wood 
cookery  dishes  made  specially  for  the  purpose.  On  top 
of  the  meat  put  some  of  the  onions,  tomatoes  and  pota- 
toes. Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter  or  vegetable 
shortening  and  pour  over  all  about  a  cupful  of  good 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   85 

stock.    Seal  the  bag  and  bake  for  a  half  hour  in  a  mod- 
erate oven. 

Individual  Meat  Pies.— Chop  fine  any  cold  cooked 
meat.  Season  highly  with  mustard,  pepper  sauce  and 
catsup,  salt  and  pepper;  add  one  egg;  moisten  with 
liquor  of  oysters.  Make  a  rich  biscuit  crust,  roll  out  to 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thickness,  and  cut  in  squares.  Fill 
half  of  each  square  with  one  tablespoonful  of  the  pre- 
pared meat.  Fold  remaining  half  of  square  over,  first 
moistening  edges  with  oyster  liquor,  and  press  closely  to- 
gether. Put  in  buttered  bag  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in 
hot  oven,  reducing  the  heat  after  the  first  ten  minutes. 

English  Pasties. —  Cut  any  cold  meat  up  into  small 
pieces,  add  a  cupful  of  sliced  potatoes,  raw,  and  an 
onion  chopped  fine,  some  parsley  and  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  Stew  this  until  the  potato  is  done  and  thicken 
with  flour  rubbed  in  butter.  Make  a  crust  of  flour  and 
salt,  using  chopped  suet  and  butter  in  equal  quantities 
for  shortening  and  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  to 
each  quart  of  flour.  Roll  the  crust  out  thin  and  cut  into 
large  discs — the  cover  of  a  two  quart  pail  makes  a  good 
pastie  cutter.  Put  two  large  spoonfuls  of  the  meat  mix- 
ture on  the  crust  and  roll  over,  pinching  edges  together 
like  a  fruit  turnover.  Bag  and  bake  one-half  hour  in  a 
hot  oven.  If  there  is  any  of  the  meat  gravy  left  serve  it 
with  the  pasties. 

Olla  Podrida  Pie.— Grease  one  of  the  oval  wood 
dishes  and  line  with  a  crust  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Fill  with  meat  scraps  of  any  sort  cut  small  and 
heated  together  in  a  little  stock  or  gravy,  well  seasoned 
with  tomato  and  powdered  herbs.  Small  leftovers  of  any 
vegetable,  peas,  corn  or  cauliflower  may  also  be  minced 
and  added  with  good  effect.  Cover  with  strips  of  good 


86   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

paste  lattice  fashion,  slip  into  a  well  greased  bag  and 
cook  half  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Oyster  Bundles. —  Cut  generous,  uniform  slices  of 
cold  turkey  or  veal,  lay  a  slice  of  bacon  on  each,  then  an 
oyster  on  each  slice  of  the  bacon.  Roll  the  three  to- 
gether, fasten  with  tooth  picks  and  put  in  buttered  bag. 
Bake  fifteen  minutes  and  serve  with  potatoes  baked  in 
another  bag. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
CHEESE  AND  EGG  DISHES. 

Cheese  Ball  With  Tomato  Sauce.— Mix  together 
two  cupfuls  grated  cheese,  a  cupful  of  fine 
bread  crumbs,  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne.  Then  add  two  eggs  beaten  stiff, 
shape  in  small  balls,  roll  in  crushed  cracker  crumbs  and 
lay  in  well  buttered  bag.  Bake  ten  minutes  and  serve  on 
triangles  of  buttered  toast  with  tomato  sauce. 

Cheese  Fritters  to  Serve  With  the  Salad  Course. 

Beat  two  eggs,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  sus- 
picion of  mustard  and  then  lay  in  this  seasoned  egg  as 
many  thin  slices  of  American  cheese  as  it  will  hold. 
Have  ready  tart  apples  cored  and  sliced  crosswise  with- 
out peeling.  Put  a  slice  of  cheese  between  two  rounds  of 
apple,  sandwich  fashion,  dip  the  sandwiches  in  the  egg, 
lay  in  a  well  greased  paper  bag  seal  and  cook  ten  min- 
utes. Serve  very  hot. 

Pepper  Cheese. —  Take  green  peppers,  scorch 
slightly  in  hot  oven  or  over  the  coals,  then  remove 
the  outer  skin  with  a  sharp  knife.  Split  the  peppers, 
remove  the  seeds,  and  put  in  their  place  a  small  roll  of 
cream  cheese.  Roll  up  again,  skewer  together  with  a 
wooden  tooth-pick,  dip  in  beaten  egg  and  cracker  crumbs 
and  put  in  well  buttered  bag.  Seal  and  bake  fifteen 
minutes  in  hot  oven. 

8T 


88   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Cheese  Ramekins. —  Roll  out  a  sheet  of  pie  crust 
and  sprinkle  liberally  with  grated  cheese.  Roll  up  and 
roll  out  again.  Sprinkle  on  more  cheese  and  repeat  the 
rolling.  Stamp  out  with  a  biscuit  cutter  (the  pastry 
should  be  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick),  put  in  but- 
tered bag  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  When  done,  dip  both 
sides  in  melted  butter  and  serve  hot. 

Cheese  and  Eggs. —  Butter  the  bottom  of  a  baking 
dish  and  cover  with  slices  of  rich  cheese.  Break  several 
whole  eggs  over  the  cheese,  taking  care  that  the  whites 
and  yolks  do  not  become  separated.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  pour  over  all  a  rich  cream,  a  half  table- 
spoonful  to  each  egg. 

Baked  Eggs. —  Butter  little  casseroles  or  gem  pans, 
and  drop  an  egg  in  each.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
put  a  little  cream  on  the  top  of  each  egg.  Put  in  bag, 
seal  and  bake  five  minutes.  These  are  exceedingly  deli- 
cate, as  the  steam  being  retained  they  bake  quickly,  yet 
do  not  become  hard.  Set  each  on  a  plate  for  serving. 

Baked  Eggs  With  Cheese. — Break  into  a  buttered 
pan  the  number  of  eggs  required.  Pour  over  each  one 
tablespoon  of  rich,  sweet  cream,  sprinkle  over  all  a  thin 
layer  of  grated  cheese  and  a  few  fine  rolled  crumbs. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  in  bag,  seal,  and  bake 
about  six  minutes. 

A  Paper  Bag  Omelette. —  Beat  two  eggs  for  about 
five  minutes.  Add  a  dash  of  salt  and  pepper  and  a 
heaping  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Beat  again  until  flour  is 
well  mixed  in  and  add  a  small  cupful  of  milk.  Put  a 
tablespoonful  of  minced  breakfast  bacon  into  a  pie  tin, 
when  quite  hot  pour  egg  mixture  over  it.  Put  in  paper 
bag,  seal,  and  bake  a  delicate  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 
Cut  in  squares  and  serve  immediately. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   89 

Cheese  Omelette. — A  savory  of  cheese  omelette  may 
be  made  from  one  egg  if  the  following  recipe  is  used. 
Soak  one  small  cupful  grated  bread  crumbs  in  two  cup- 
fuls  of  sweet  milk  into  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been 
dissolved.  Beat  one  egg  very  light  and  add  to  the  soft- 
ened bread.  Stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter 
and  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Beat  the  whole  well,  add  a 
small  cupful  grated  cheese  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Beat  again,  turn  into  a  buttered  bag,  bake  twenty 
minutes  and  serve  at  once. 

Swiss  Eggs. —  For  Swiss  eggs  spread  the  bottom  of  a 
bag  with  two  ounces  of  fine  American  cheese.  Place 
four  eggs  on  the  cheese,  taking  care  that  the  yolks  are  not 
broken.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Pour  around 
the  eggs  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rich  cream  and  cover  the 
top  with  grated  cheese.  Put  in  bag,  seal  and  bake  for 
ten  minutes.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  serve  with 
fingers  of  crisp  toast. 

Eggs  in  Tomato  Cups. —  Cut  fresh  tomatoes  in  half 
and  scoop  out  part  of  the  interior.  Fry  the  tomato  cups 
until  half  done.  Then  break  into  each  of  them  an  egg. 
Put  then  in  a  buttered  bag,  seal  and  cook  ten  minutes. 
The  tops  of  the  eggs  may  be  sprinkled  with  minced  ham 
or  grated  cheese,  or  they  may  be  served  plain.  Season 
and  serve  hot. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 
VEGETABLES. 

WHILE  no  claim  is  made  that  all  vegetables  are  im- 
proved through  paper  bag  cookery,  experiments  prove 
that  quite  a  number  can  be  successfully  cooked  by  the 
paper  bag  process.  Vegetables  of  strong  flavor  as  a 
rule  are  best  cooked  in  a  large  quantity  of  water  and  are 
not  recommended  for  paper  bag  cookery;  only  the  more 
delicate  vegetables  that  need  to  have  their  flavors  con- 
served. Dried  peas,  lentils  and  beans  are  excellent 
cooked  in  paper  bags  but  require  a  longer  preliminary 
soaking  than  is  usual  with  other  methods  of  cooking. 

Asparagus. — Trim  and  scrape  as  for  boiling;  wasE 
very  clean.  Tie  in  bundles  and  put  into  a  buttered  bag 
with  a  little  salt  and  a  quarter  cupful  of  water.  Seal 
and  cook  from  thirty-five  to  forty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven« 

Asparagus  With  Chesse. — Boil  two  bunches  of  as- 
paragus twelve  minutes  in  salted  water.  Drain,  but 
save  the  water.  Put  the  asparagus  in  a  buttered  bag  or 
in  one  of  the  oval  wooden  dishes,  scattering  grated 
Swiss  or  Parmesan  cheese  between  the  layers.  Turn 
over  all  a  cup  of  the  water  in  which  the  asparagus  was 
boiled,  sprinkle  the  top  of  the  scallop  with  a  little  cheese 
and  a  few  buttered  bread  crumbs.  Seal  the  bag  and 
cook  fifteen  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Lima  Beans. — Add  to  a  quart  of  shelled  Lima  beans 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  or  vegetable  oil,  a  quarter 

90 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   91 

pound  of  diced  bacon  or  ham,  a  little  minced  parsley  or 
other  seasoning  herbs,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour.  Put 
in  a  greased  bag  with  a  cupful  of  water,  seal  and  cook  an 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

String  Beans,  Oriental  Style. — String  the  beans, 
cut  in  two  lengthwise,  then  break  in  inch  pieces.  To 
every  pint  of  beans,  which  should  be  young  and  tender, 
allow  one  cupful  boiling  water,  two  tablespoonfuls  vege- 
table oil,  one  small  onion  sliced,  and  a  half  cupful  tomato, 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  all  in  greased  paper  bag 
and  cook  forty-five  minutes.  A  wooden  cookery  dish  can 
be  employed  to  advantage. 

Boston  Baked  Bean  Cakes. — These  are  made  of 
left-over  baked  beans.  Heat  with  a  little  water  to 
moisten,  rub  through  a  colander,  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  mustard.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  pork  drippings  or 
butter  in  a  frying  pan,  and  cook  in  it,  when  hot,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  minced  onion,  taking  care  not  to  let  it 
blacken.  Add  to  the  beans,  make  into  cakes  and  lay  in 
well-greased  bag.  Cook  twenty  minutes  and  serve  with 
tomato  sauce. 

Bean  Croquettes.  Soak  one  pint  white  pea  beans 
or  the  little  brown  Mexican  frijoles  over  night  in  cold 
water.  In  the  morning  cook  until  soft  in  water  to  which 
a  saltspoonful  of  soda  has  been  added,  changing  the 
water  after  it  first  comes  to  a  boil.  Rub  through  a 
colander,  then  add  to  the  pulp  one  cup  grated  bread 
crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  minced  parsley,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  melted  butter,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  one 
small  onion  grated  and  salt  and  pepper  to  season.  Mix 
thoroughly,  shape  into  cylinders,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then 
in  cracker  dust  and  put  in  buttered  bag.  Seal  and  cook 
ten  minutes  in  hot  oven. 


92   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

German  Cabbage. — Take  two  small  hard  heads  of 
red  cabbage  and  cut  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  discard- 
ing the  hard  stalk  and  veins.  Put  onto  a  greased  wooden 
cookery  bowl  two  rounding  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  but- 
ter or  vegetable  oil,  then  add  the  cabbage,  sprinkle  with  a 
level  teaspoonful  of  salt,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar 
and  one  onion  chopped  fine.  Put  in  bag,  seal,  and  put 
in  oven.  Bake  one  hour  with  only  one  burner  on  after 
the  first  ten  minutes. 

Cabbage  Hot  Slaw.—  Chop  a  small  hard  head  o? 
cabbage  fine  and  salt  it  lightly.  Let  stand  half  an  hour 
then  put  in  wooden  bowl  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter. Put  in  bag,  seal,  and  cook  slowly  in  the  oven  for 
twenty  minutes.  No  water  is  necessary,  as  the  salt  will 
draw  out  the  juices  of  the  cabbage  so  it  will  have  mois- 
ture enough.  At  the  end  of  twenty  minutes  take  up  with 
a  hot  dish,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  that  has  been  stirred 
in  a  little  cold  water,  then  cooked  until  thick  with  a  half 
cupful  of  cream.  Lastly,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  pure 
vinegar  and  serve  at  once. 

Carrots. —  Wash  and  scrape  a  half  dozen  tender 
carrots.  Slice  thin  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a 
good  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add  a  half  cupful  good 
stock,  put  in  a  well  greased  bag,  seal  and  cook  thirty-five 
minutes. 

Carrot  Saute.— Scrape  and  cook  young  carrots  in 
boiling  salted  water  until  tender.  Cut  in  halves  length- 
wise, roll  in  fine  cracker  crumbs,  then  in  egg  and  cracker 
again,  and  put  in  well  greased  bag.  Bake  fifteen 
minutes,  sprinkle  with  fine  chopped  parsley  and  serve 
very  hot. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   93 

Stuffed  Eggplant. — Select  purple  fruit  and  of  small 
size.  Halve  them,  sprinkle  them  with  salt,  turn  them 
cut  side  down  on  a  fine  sieve,  put  a  heavy  plate  on  them 
and  let  them  drain  for  an  hour.  Wipe  dry,  take  from 
each  a  tablespoonful  of  the  center,  chop  it  fine  and  for 
each  tablespoonful  allow  the  same  amount  of  bread 
crumbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions,  olives  and  vege- 
table oil,  with  a  little  salt  and  adustingof  paprika.  Mound 
this  dressing  on  each  half,  arrange  the  halves  in  a  but- 
tered bag,  pour  in  water  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  add  a 
generous  piece  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  the 
bag  in  a  hot  oven;  twenty  minutes  should  be  sufficiently 
long  to  cook  the  eggplant  thoroughly. 

Lentil  Cutlets.— Soak  one  cupful  dried  lentils  all 
night  with  a  cupful  dried  lima  beans.  In  the  morning 
drain,  add  two  quarts  of  water,  a  stalk  of  celery  and  half 
an  onion  sliced.  Cook  until  soft,  remove  the  seasonings 
and  rub  through  a  puree  sieve.  Add  one  cupful  stale 
bread  crumbs,  one  beaten  egg,  the  juice  of  a  half  lemon 
and  seasonings  to  taste.  Melt  a  heaping  tablespoonful 
of  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful 
flour  and  pour  on,  when  blended,  a  third  of  a  cup  of 
milk.  Let  the  mixture  cook  until  thick  and  smooth,  then 
add  to  the  lentil  mixture  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Shape 
into  small  cutlets,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fine  cracker 
crumb,  put  in  a  well  buttered  bag  and  bake  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  with  a  tomato  sauce. 

Mushrooms.  —  Choose  fine  fat  musfirooms,  cut  the 
stem  close,  peel  and  wipe  delicately  with  a  damp  cloth. 
Sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  lay  in  a  well-greased  bag 
together  with  a  big  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour  and  a  half  cupful  of  rich  cream.  Seal  and  cook 
twelve  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 


94   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Baked  Onions. — Parboil  for  fifteen  minutes  Bermuda 
or  Spanish  onions,  chill  in  cold  water,  then  if  very  large 
cut  in  halves,  otherwise,  cut  a  little  wedge  out  of  the 
hearts  and  fill  the  cavity  with  butter  or  vegetable  oil. 
Put  in  the  well  greased  bag,  adding  a  little  water  and 
more  butter  or  oil,  seal  and  cook  twenty  minutes. 

Stuffed  Baked  Onions. — The  next  time  you  have  a 
roast  leg  of  lamb  or  mutton,  try  baked  onions  prepared 
in  this  way  as  an  accompaniment:  Take  large  onions, 
preferably  Spanish  or  Bermudas,  peel,  cut  a  slice  from 
the  top  of  each,  and  with  a  small  spoon  scoop  out  about 
half  the  pulp.  Put  this  in  a  dish,  mix  with  it  an  equal 
quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  well  flavored  with  chopped 
parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  salt  and  pepper.  Moisten  the 
whole  lightly  with  cream  and  a  little  melted  butter;  mix 
well,  fill  the  onion  cavities  with  the  stuffing,  crown  with 
a  slice  of  bacon  for  a  cover,  put  in  a  bag  and  bake  one 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Onions  With  Cheese. — Skin  large  Spanish  onions 
and  boil  until  quite  soft.  Press  through  a  sieve  and  put 
into  a  well  buttered  wooden  baking  dish.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  plenty  of  butter,  add  a  little  stock  or 
milk,  grate  a  little  cheese  over  them,  put  in  bag  and 
bake  to  a  golden  brown. 

Parsnips. —  Scrape  and  parboil  some  parsnips.  Cut 
in  two  lengthwise.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  roll 
in  melted  butter,  dripping  or  olive  oil.  Flour  again  and 
place  in  a  well-greased  paper  bag.  Seal  up  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  on  a  wire  rack  for  half  an  hour. 
They  should  be  a  golden  brown. 

Green  Peas.— Shell  the  peas,  put  into  a  well  buttered 
bag  with  a  little  salt  to  season,  a  little  sprig  of  green  mint 
and  a  half  cupful  of  water.  Seal  and  cook  twenty-five 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   05 

minutes.     Slit  open  the  bag,  pour  its  contents  into  a  hot 
dish,  season  well  with  butter  and  serve. 

Stuffed  Peppers. —  In  preparing  peppers  for  stuffing, 
select  those  of  uniform  size,  wash  and  plunge  in  boiling 
water  for  about  ten  minutes;  then  drop  into  cold  water 
to  keep  them  green;  cut  off  the  stem  ends  and  scoop  out 
the  seeds  and  inside  of  the  peppers;  fill  with  any  of  the 
following  stuffings  or  a  combination  of  your  own  de- 
vising. 

Stuffing  No.  1.  Wash  half  a  cup  of  rice;  cover  with 
boiling  water  and  cook  rapidly  for  ten  minutes;  then 
turn  into  a  sieve  to  drain.  Peel  three  large  tomatoes,  re- 
moving the  seeds  and  cutting  the  pulp  in  small  pieces. 
When  fresh  tomatoes  are  out  of  season,  their  equivalent 
in  canned  may  be  used.  Mix  the  rice  and  tomatoes  to- 
gether; add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil  or  melted 
butter  and  season  with  salt.  Fill  the  drained  peppers  with 
the  mixture,  sprinkling  a  few  buttered  crumbs  over  the 
top  and  replace  the  covers.  Oil  the  peppers  on  the  outside^ 
and  set  m  a  buttered  bag.  Turn  enough  stock  into  the 
bag  to  come  half  way  up  the  sides  of  the  peppers  (if  you 
have  no  stock  use  hot  water  in  which  a  tablespoonful  of 
kitchen  bouquet  has  been  dissolved  and  several  slices  of 
onion  and  carrot  added),  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Rice  that  has  been  left  over 
from  dinner  may  be  used,  leaving  the  tomatoes  out  and 
seasoning  with  chopped  celery,  parsley,  salt  and  pep- 
per. When  done,  dish  on  a  hot  platter  and  pour  a  rich 
brown  sauce  over  them,  scattering  a  little  minced  parsley 
over  the  top.  A  wooden  cookery  dish  is  advised  here. 

Stuffing  No.  2.  For  eight  good  sized  peppers  take  a 
pint  of  chopped  meat,  veal  or  chicken,  or  veal  mixed  with 
sausage,  a  cupful  of  soft  bread  crumbs  and  a  cup  of  stock, 
gravy  or  water  in  which  a  spoonful  of  beef  extract  has 
been  dissolved.  Season  with  an  even  teaspoonful  each 


96   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

of  salt  and  pepper  and  half  teaspoonful  each  summer 
savory,  thyme  and  sage.  Mix  well,  fill  the  peppers, 
sprinkle  fine  buttered  bread  crumbs  over  them  at  the  end 
where  the  stuffing  is  exposed,  put  in  a  buttered  bag  and 
bake  until  well  browned.  This  will  take  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour.  Serve  with  chicken  or  roast  beef,  and  with 
or  without  a  sauce. 

Peppers  With  Creamed  Fish. — Parboil  the  peppers 
ten  minutes,  then  fill  with  creamed  fish  of  any  kind, 
which  may  be  seasoned  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry. 
Then  sprinkle  with  a  layer  of  fine  crumbs,  dot  with 
butter,  bag,  and  brown  lightly  in  a  quick  oven.  Creamed 
carrots,  cauliflower,  sprouts,  and  many  other  vegetables 
may  be  baked  in  the  pepper  cups  and  served  either  as  a 
vegetable  or  an  entree.  Filled  with  potatoes  au  gratin 
and  browned  they  are  a  delicious  accompaniment  for 
chops  and  steaks. 

Baked  Irish  Potatoes. — Scrub  thoroughly  and  rinse 
as  many  good  sized  potatoes  as  will  be  required.  Make 
a  few  slits  in  them  but  do  not  peel.  Place  in  the  paper 
bag  with  a  tablespoonful  of  water,  close  tightly  and 
cook  from  thirty-five  to  fifty  minutes,  according  to  size. 

Baked  Potatoes  Without  Their  Coats  or  Jackets. 
Select  as  many  potatoes  of  the  same  size  as  desired. 
Peel  and  let  them  stand  in  salted,  cold  water  for  ten 
minutes.  Then  drain  without  drying  and  place  in  a 
greased  bag, — bacon  fat  is  good  for  these  potatoes — and 
cook  in  a  hot  oven,  without  disturbing,  for  forty-five 
minutes  if  small,  one  hour,  if  large  .They  will  have  a 
crisp,  brown  coat,  every  part  of  which  can  be  eaten. 

Potatoes  en  Surprise. —  Choose  potatoes  of  smooth 
shape,  not  too  large  and  of  even  size.     Scrape  out  from 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   9? 

the  top  of  each  a  space  large  enough  to  hold  the  yolk  of 
an  egg.  Salt  and  pepper  the  nest,  drop  in  a  tiny  bit  of 
butter,  then  the  egg  yolk,  follow  with  a  thin  slice  of 
bacon  just  large  enough  to  cover  the  egg  and  set  in 
greased  paper  bag.  If  necessary  to  keep  them  upright 
cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  bottom  of  each  potato,  add  a 
spoonful  of  cold  water,  seal,  set  in  a  hot  oven  and  cook 
for  thirty  minutes. 

Potatoes  Farci. —  A  new  and  very  delicious  way  of 
serving  stuffed  potatoes  is  as  follows:  Wash  large  po- 
tatoes and  bake  in  bag  until  nearly  done;  take  from  the 
oven  and  nearly  cut  off  one  end,  leaving  the  skin  for  a 
hinge  and  a  bit  of  potato  for  a  lid.  Pull  out  the  undone 
heart  with  a  fork  and  in  its  place  lay  shavings  of  smoked 
bacon,  peppered  and  tightly  rolled  after  having  been 
laid  for  an  instant  on  a  hot  frying  pan;  close  the  potato 
and  set  in  the  oven  to  finish  cooking. 

Sauer  Kraut.—  Put  enough  to  serve  six  people  in  one 
of  the  largest  size  wood  cookery  dishes,  salt  and  sea- 
son to  taste,  add  a  half  cupful  of  water,  put  in  bag,  seal, 
and  bake  one  hour  in  moderate  oven. 

Waldorf  Sauer  Kraut.— Soak  the  sauer  kraut  in 
cold  water  until  just  palatably  salt.  Put  into  greased 
paper  bag  on  a  wooden  cookery  dish  with  a  little  bacon, 
pickled  pork  or  sausage,  add  a  half  cupful  of  hot  water 
and  cook  about  twenty  minutes.  Drain,  put  in  a  hot  dish 
with  or  without  the  meat  as  desired  and  serve.  When 
boiled  sauer  kraut  is  cold  it  may  be  chopped  and  reheated 
in  a  buttered  bag  with  butter,  gravy  or  a  white  sauce. 

Sweet  Potatoes  and  Bacon.—  Peel  boiled  sweet  po- 
tatoes, fasten  a  slice  of  bacon  around  each,  using  a 
wooden  tooth  pick  to  hold  in  place.  Put  in  buttered  bag 
With  a  spoonful  of  water,  and  bake  ten  minutes. 


98   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Sweet  Potato  Straws. —  Cut  potatoes  in  slices 
lengthwise,  peel,  then  cut  into  straws.  Dip  in  bacon  fat 
or  melted  butter,  put  in  buttered  bag,  seal,  and  cook 
fifteen  minutes.  Take  out  on  soft  paper  to  absorb  any 
grease,  dust  lightly  with  salt  and  serve. 

Sweet  Potato  en  Brochette. — Peel  and  cut  in  half 
inch,  uniform  slices.  Put  on  skewers  in  groups  of  four, 
place  in  boiling  water  and  parboil  ten  minutes.  Drain, 
brush  over  with  vegetable  oil,  sprinkle  with  brown  sugar, 
put  in  greased  bag  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  moderate 
oven. 

Spinach. — Pick  over  carefully,  thoroughly  wash,  then 
put  into  a  bag,  leaving  the  vegetable  quite  damp.  Add 
a  little  salt,  seal  and  cook  thirty  minutes.  Before  lifting 
the  bag  from  the  oven  slide  a  pan  under  it,  and  prick  the 
bottom  of  the  bag  so  the  water  will  drain  out.  Dish, 
adding  butter  to  season  and  serve. 

Summer  Squash  in  Butter. — Cut  into  narrow  strips 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  into  well  greased 
bag,  add  a  generous  lump  of  butter  and  cook  about  half 
an  hour. 

Stuffed  Summer  Squash. — Boil  in  lightly  salte3 
water  until  tender.  Cut  off  the  top  and  scoop  out  the 
inside.  Mix  well  with  seasoned  and  buttered  crumbs, 
chopped  onion  and  grated  cheese.  Fill  the  shell,  sprinkle 
the  top  with  buttered  crumbs,  put  in  bag  and  bake  until 
brown. 

Stuffed  Tomatoes  With  Cream.— Mix  together 
three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  cold-chopped  chicken  or 
veal,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  soft  bread  crumbs,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  quarter  teaspoon- 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY   99 

ful  of  paprika.  Wash  and  wipe  six  medium-sized  to- 
matoes, take  a  small  piece  from  the  stem  end,  carefully 
remove  a  portion  of  the  pulp,  and  fill  the  hole  with  the 
stuffing;  place  in  a  buttered  bag  and  cook  for  thirty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Remove  to  a  hot  platter, 
whip  three  tablespoon fuls  of  rich  cream,  add  to  it  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  melted  butter,  and  pour  a  small  portion 
over  each  tomato. 

Turnips. —  Peel  and  slice  your  turnips  and  put  them 
in  a  well-greased  bag  with  a  light  seasoning  of  salt,  a 
lump  of  butter  barely  dusted  with  flour,  and  enough  thin 
stock  to  half  cover  them.  Seal  and  cook  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  an  hour  more  or  less  according  to  the  tender- 
ness of  the  vegetable.  Empty  into  a  hot  dish  and  if  not 
rich  enough  add  more  butter,  and  dust  with  black  pepper 
and  salt. 

Turnip  Balls. —  Peel  fine  grained  turnips,  then  cut 
into  balls,  using  a  vegetable  scoop.  Put  into  a  well- 
greased  bag  with  a  light  seasoning  of  salt,  a  little  sugar, 
a  dusting  of  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  vege- 
table oil  and  a  quarter  cupful  of  hot  water,  seal,  and  cook 
half  an  hour  until  tender,  but  not  brown.  Take  up,  add  a 
half  cupful  hot  cream  sauce,  stir  lightly  in  it,  sprinkle 
with  minced  parsley  and  serve  very  hot. 

Stuffed  Vine  Leaves  or  Dolmas. — Choose  tender 
vine  leaves  and  scald  them,  after  which  roll  a  little  of  the 
following  stuffing  in  each  leaf,  making  it  round  and  firm 
so  that  the  stuffing  will  not  come  out  when  the  balls  are 
boiled.  Chop  three  onions,  put  a  teacupful  of  good  salad 
oil  in  a  stewing-pan,  and,  when  it  is  boiling  hot,  throw 
in  the  chopped  onion.  As  soon  as  this  begins  to  cook,  add 
a  small  cupful  of  Carolina  rice,  some  chopped  parsley 
and  mint,  salt  and  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful  of  currants 


100  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

and  mix  well  on  the  fire  till  the  rice  begins  to  brown. 
Then  take  a  vine  leaf  in  your  left  hand  and  wrong  side 
upward  and  put  a  little  of  this  prepared  rice  into  it.  Put 
some  of  the  coarse  vine  leaves  at  the  bottom  of  the  paper 
bag  and  arrange  each  little  ball  beside  its  neighbor, 
packing  them  rather  tightly.  When  this  is  done,  put  in 
sufficient  water  just  to  cover  the  dolmas,  add  a  little  oil, 
seal  the  bag  and  bake  till  the  rice  is  soft  and  the  water  is 
all  absorbed.  This  is  a  very  delicate  and  characteristic 
dish,  but  will  be  a  failure  if  the  vine  leaves  are  not 
tender  or  the  oil  is  rancid.  Serve  with  lemon. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
;WARM  BREADS,  BISCUITS,  MUFFINS,  ETC. 

Baking  Powder  Bread. — SIFT  together,  five  times 
over,  four  quarts  of  flour,  six  rounded  teaspoonfuls  bak- 
ing powder  and  four  level  teaspoonfuls  salt.  Have  the 
oven  quite  hot.  Add  to  the  sifted  flour  enough  milk  and 
water  in  nearly  equal  proportions,  to  make  a  moist,  not 
wet,  dough,  stiff  enough  to  handle,  then  divide  into  four 
portions,  mould  lightly  into  shape  and  put  into  brick 
shaped  pans.  Brush  over  the  tops  with  milk,  put  into 
bags  and  bake  an  hour. 

Bannocks. — Sift  together  one  pint  of  corn  meal,  one 
tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pour 
over  the  mixture  enough  milk  or  milk  and  water  to 
moisten.  Let  stand  until  cool,  then  add  three  well-beaten 
eggs,  spread  half  an  inch  thick  in  well-greased  bag. 
Seal  and  bake  in  hot  oven.  Cut  into  squares,  split  and 
serve  hot  and  well-buttered. 

Baking  Powder  Biscuits. — Sift  together  three  times 
over  one  quart  of  flour,  two  rounded  teaspoonfuls  baking 
powder,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Rub  in  with  the  tips 
of  the  fingers  one  rounding  tablespoonful  vegetable 
shortening  or  butter,  and  when  the  flour  feels  mealy,  add 
slowly  a  cup  and  a  half  of  milk  or  milk  and  water  mixed. 
Mix  lightly  with  little  handling,  turn  out  on  board,  roll 
into  a  sheet  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  stamp  out  with 

101 


102  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

small  round  cutter  and  lay  in  greased  bag.  Brush  the  top 
of  each  biscuit  with  milk.  Seal  and  bake  twenty  minutes 
in  a  very  hot  oven. 

Egg  Biscuits. — To  make  these  delicious  biscuits,  beat 
one  egg  until  light,  then  mix  with  it  two-thirds  of  a  cup- 
ful of  milk.  Add  to  one  pint  of  flour  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  baking  powder  and  one-half  teaspoonful  salt, 
and  sift.  Blend  with  the  mixture  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Add  the  egg 
mixture,  make  into  a  dough  and  knead  lightly.  Roll  into 
a  sheet  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  stamp  out  with  a  round 
cutter,  brush  over  the  top  of  each  biscuit  with  cream, 
prick  with  a  fork,  bag,  and  bake  in  a  hot  ove&. 

Maple  Biscuits.— Make  a  very  rich  baking  powder 
biscuit  dough  and  roll  out  to  half  the  thickness  of  biscuits, 
cut  out  with  a  small  cutter,  sprinkle  grated  maple  sugar 
over  the  tops  of  half  of  them,  moisten  the  under  sides  of 
the  others  and  lay  them  on  top  of  the  sugared  ones, 
pressing  them  on  well.  Lay  close  together  in  a  bag, 
brush  over  with  milk  or  melted  butter,  seal  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Nut  Biscuits.— Sift  together  two  cupfuls  flour,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of 
baking  powder. 

Rub  in  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  or  vegetable 
shortening,  and  add  one  cupful  of  nuts,  pecans,  hickory 
or  English  walnuts  chopped  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 
Mix  to  a  soft  dough  with  milk  or  milk  and  water,  mould 
with  the  hands  into  small  balls,  place  in  a  greased  bag, 
brush  each  biscuit  over  with  milk  or  melted  butter,  put  a 
pinch  of  chopped  nuts  on  each,  seal  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  103 

Raisin  Biscuits. — These  are  excellent  for  home  lunch- 
eon or  the  children's  school  or  picnic  lunch.  Sift 
together  one  quart  of  flour,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
two  heaping  teaspoon fuls  of  baking  powder.  Work  into 
the  sifted  flour  a  cupful  of  shortening,  then  add  a  cupful 
each  seedless  raisins  and  milk.  Mix  well  and  roll  out  on 
the  molding  board.  Cut  in  small  round  biscuits,  bag, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Hot  Cross  Buns. — Sift  together  one  quart  of  pastry- 
flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Rub  into  the  flour  a  piece  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg.  Mix  together  a  cupful  each  of  milk  and 
water  and  add  one  cupful  of  sugar.  Stir  into  the  flour, 
add  two  beaten  eggs,  and  mix  soft.  Cut  into  small  bis- 
cuits, make  the  cross  on  the  top  of  each,  bag,  and  bake 
in  a  very  hot  oven.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over  them  as 
soon  as  taken  from  the  bag.  A  half  cupful  chopped 
raisins  or  currants  may  be  added  to  the  dough  if  de- 
sired. 

Warmed  Over  Breads. —  It  is  a  trick  worth  knowing 
that  cold  biscuit,  rolls,  gems  and  the  like  can  be  brushed 
over  with  water,  put  in  a  greased  paper  bag,  sealed  and 
set  in  the  oven  for  eight  minutes  to  emerge  as  fresh  as 
though  just  newly  baked. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
CAKES. 

CAKES  baked  in  paper  bags  will  be  as  brown  as  if 
baked  without  the  bag  and  will  retain  their  moisture  in- 
finitely better;  therefore  plain  loaf  cakes  and  all  fruit 
cakes  are  greatly  improved  by  the  paper  bag  cooking. 
While  drop  cakes,  oatmeal  cookies  and  the  like  can  be 
baked  directly  on  the  bottom  of  the  bag,  better  results 
as  far  as  form  is  concerned,  will  come  from  using  very 
thin  tin  moulds  or  baking  sheets  or  paper  souffle  cases. 
Before  putting  a  cake  in  the  oven,  particularly  if  it  be  a 
fruit  cake,  it  will  be  found  advisable  to  set  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  oven,  a  shallow  pan  with  a  little  water  in  it. 
Put  in  the  bag,  close  the  oven  door  and  leave  ten  min- 
utes with  the  gas  on,  then  reduce  the  heat  at  least  one- 
half.  Bag  cooking  prevents  cake  crusting  over  and  there- 
by permits  it  to  rise  to  its  full  height.  It  also  saves  from 
burning.  Midway  in  the  baking  the  position  of  cakes  can 
be  changed,  those  on  the  grid  itself  set  low  on  the  broiler 
and  vice  versa  so  all  will  cook  evenly.  To  test  whether 
the  cake  is  done  or  no,  make  a  hole  in  the  bag  top  and 
thrust  in  a  clean  straw  or  thin  knife  blade.  If  it  comes 
out  dry  with  no  stickiness,  the  cake  is  done. 

Cheese  Cakes. —  These  are  a  modern  adaptation  of  the 
old  "  flawns,"  a  favorite  Eastertide  cake.  As  formerly 
made,  there  was  a  tedious  separation  of  curds  and  whey ; 
but  the  housewife  of  today  eliminates  that  by  taking 


STANDARD  PAPER;  BAG  COOKERY  105 

a  Neufchatel  or  cream  cheese  as  the  foundation.  This  is 
crumbled  fine  and  added  to  the  other  ingredients,  allow- 
ing to  each  Neufchatel  cheese,  one  small  cupful  of  sugar, 
the  grated  rind  and  half  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  half 
cupful  each  sifted  cracker  crumbs  and  currants,  one 
tablespoonful  melted  butter,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  half 
a  cupful  of  cream  or  rich  milk,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and 
four  eggs.  Crumble  the  cheese  and  crackers  together, 
beat  the  eggs  and  add,  together  with  sugar,  salt  and 
spices.  Next  add  the  butter  and  cream  and  lastly  the 
currants,  lemon  juice  and  rind.  Mix  thoroughly  and  fill 
patty  tins  lined  with  puff  paste.  Ornament  the  top  with 
currants  and  slender  strips  of  citron,  put  in  buttered 
bag.  Seal  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Cinnamon  Cake. —  Cream  one-quarter  cup  of  butter 
and  one  cup  of  sugar,  add  one-half  cup  of  milk,  one  well 
beaten  egg,  one  and  three-quarters  cups  of  flour  sifted 
twice  with  three  even  teaspoons  of  baking  powder,  and 
pour  in  a  shallow  pan  to  make  a  sheet  rather  than  a  loaf. 
Just  before  setting  the  cake  into  the  oven  sprinkle  cinna- 
mon and  granulated  sugar  over  the  top.  Put  into  a  bag. 
Seal  and  bake  twenty  minutes.  Serve  fresh  and  cut  in 
squares. 

English  Fairy  Cakes. — Sift  together  six  ounces  of 
flour  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder.  Grate  a 
lemon  rind  and  add  to  the  sifted  flour  together  with  three 
ounces  chopped  candied  cherries.  Beat  to  a  cream  four 
ounces  of  butter  and  four  of  sugar,  then  add  three  eggs 
one  at  a  time,  beating  thoroughly.  Add  the  flour  and 
cherry  mixture  and  stir  lightly.  Have  ready  some  but- 
tered patty-tins,  half  fill  with  the  batter,  bag,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  twenty  minutes. 


106  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Fruit  Cookies. — One  cupful  and  one-half  of  sugar, 
either  white  or  brown,  one  cupful  of  butter  and  lard  or 
vegetable  shortening,  (half  and  half  is  good)  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  the  same  amount  of  hot 
water,  three  eggs,  one  cupful  of  raisins,  one  teaspoonful 
each  of  soda  (dissolved  in  hot  water),  ginger  and  cinna- 
mon, a  light  sprinkling  of  cloves,  and  flour  to  make  very 
stiff.  Half  a  cupful  or  more  of  chopped  nut  meats 
makes  a  nice  addition,  but  is  not  necessary. 

Cream  the  sugar  and  shortening,  as  for  cake,  then  add 
eggs  well  beaten,  molasses  and  water,  spices  and  soda, 
then  flour,  and  lastly  fruit.  When  the  batter  will  take 
up  no  more  flour,  lift  it  up  by  teaspoonfuls,  pat  it  flat  and 
in  shape  in  the  baking  pan,  which  must  be  well  buttered, 
put  in  bag,  and  bake  in  fairly  hot  oven,  being  careful  not 
to  scorch. 

This  will  be  found  much  easier  than  rolling  the  dough 
on  a  board,  and  will  make  about  forty  cookies. 

Mrs.  Godfrey's  Soft  Gingerbread.— In  a  sympo- 
sium on  gingerbreads  held  one  Summer  afternoon  at  Sun- 
apee  Inn,  New  Hampshire,  this  was  given  as  an  example 
of  a  most  delicate  inexpensive  cake.  Add  to  one  cupful 
molasses,  one  cupful  softened  butter  or  lard,  filling  up 
the  cup  in  which  it  is  measured  with  boiling  water.  Add 
two  even  teaspoonfuls  soda,  a  small  teaspoonful  of  gin- 
ger, a  pinch  of  salt,  one  beaten  egg,  and  two  heaping  cup- 
fuls  sifted  flour.  Beat  lightly  (not  too  much  lest  it 
make  the  ginger  bread  light  colored),  put  in  bag  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Good  Friday  Cake. — This  is  a  simple  tea  cake,  not 
very  sweet,  and  is  served  hot  or  cold  as  preferred.  To 
make  it,  beat  to  a  cream  a  scant  cupful  of  butter  and  a 
quarter  cupful  of  sugar.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  the 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  107 

grated  yellow  rind  of  lemon,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  a  pound  of  flour  and  enough  water  to  make  a  stiff 
paste.  Divide  the  dough  into  two  equal  parts  and  roll 
into  large,  round  cakes  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  pie 
tin.  Mark  the  edges  with  a  "jigger  "  into  some  fancy 
design,  or  simply  pinch  with  the  fingers.  Cut  each  cake 
into  quarters,  brush  over  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  lay 
a  strip  of  candied  lemon  peel  on  each,  sprinkle  with 
granulated  sugar  put  in  bag,  and  bake. 

German  Honey  Cakes. — These  are  fine  for  lunch- 
eon or  the  kaffee  klatch.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  cupfuls 
strained  honey  and  one  cupful  sugar.  Warm,  add  a  cup- 
ful of  butter  and  a  half  tablespoonful  soda  dissolved  in  a 
little  warm  water.  Add  a  half  cupful  caraway  seed  and 
flour  to  roll.  Roll  into  a  rather  thick  sheet,  mark  into 
squares,  put  in  bag,  and  bake.  When  done  cut  in  small 
cakes. 

Pecan  Kisses. —  Into  the  whites  of  six  eggs  put  four- 
teen little  more  than  level  tablespoonfuls  white  sugar  and 
beat  long  and  thoroughly  until  stiff  enough  to  stand 
alone.  Have  ready  a  small  cup  pecan  kernels  having 
them  in  as  perfect  halves  as  possible.  Beat  in  lightly, 
drop  in  greased  baking  sheet,  put  in  bag.  Seal  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

Mrs.  Kelder's  Loaf  Cake.—  Beat  to  a  cream  one  and 
one-half  cupfuls  sugar  and  one-half  cupful  of  butter. 
Add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  until  light  and  thin. 
Add  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  flour  measured  after  sifting 
with  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking  powder.  Lastly 
fold  in  the  stiffly  whipped  whites  of  three  eggs  and  flavor 
to  taste.  Put  in  light  tin,  set  in  paper  bag.  Seal  and 
bake  thirty-five  minutes. 


108  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Hickory  Nut  Macaroons.—  To  one  whole  egg  beaten 
light,  add  one  cup  sugar  and  beat  well.  Add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  flour  and  one  cup  nut  meats  and  lastly  fold  in 
the  stiffly  whipped  whites  of  three  eggs.  Drop  by 
spoonsfuls  into  a  well  greased  bag  and  bake  in  a  moder- 
ate oven  ten  or  twelve  minutes. 

Walnut  Macaroons. —  One  and  one-half  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  one-third  cup  of  butter,  three  eggs,  three  cups  of 
flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  water,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  one 
cup  of  English  walnut  meats,  one  cup  of  chopped  dates. 
Do  not  roll  the  mixture  as  in  ordinary  cookies,  but  drop 
into  a  greased  bag  with  a  spoon.  Seal  and  bake  slowly 
for  thirty  minutes. 

Maple  Sugar  Cake.—  Add  to  one  cup  maple  syrup 
one  beaten  egg,  a  pinch  of  salt,  one  cup  of  thick,  sour 
cream,  into  which  has  been  stirred  a  teaspoonful  (scant) 
of  soda,  a  teaspoonful  of  ginger  and  flour  to  make  a  thin 
batter.  Bake  in  a  bag  and  cut  in  squares. 

Molasses  Coffee  Cake. —  Then  right  here  let  me  give 
you  a  recipe  for  a  fruit  cake  or  gingerbread  with  fruit 
as  you  may  elect  to  call  it.  Cream  together  one  cupful 
of  sugar  and  three- fourths  cup  of  butter.  Add  one  cupful 
black  molasses,  one  cupful  strong  coffee  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda  dissolved  in  it,  four  beaten  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoonful  each  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  three-fourths  tea- 
spoonful  cloves,  one  half  pound  shredded  citron  and 
three  cupfuls  sifted  flour.  Do  not  beat  longer  than 
necessary.  Put  in  tin,  then  in  bag,  and  bake  in  a  slow 
oven. 

Nut  Cake. —  To  make  a  light,  delicious  cake,  cream 
together  one  cup  of  sugar  and  five  tablespoons  of  melted 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  109 

butter.  Into  this  beat  two  well  beaten  eggs,  a  pinch  of 
salt  and  a  cup  of  milk.  Stir  into  this  two  heaping  cupfuls 
of  flour,  sifted  with  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder.  After  this  is  well  beaten,  stir  in  three-quarters 
of  a  cup  of  chopped  walnuts.  Bake  in  square  cake  tin 
in  bag.  Ice  when  cold  with  plain  pulverized  sugar  icing. 
Cut  in  squares,  placing  a  piece  of  walnut  meat  on  each 
square. 

Oatmeal  Cakes.— Beat  to  a  cream  three- fourths  cup- 
ful vegetable  shortening  or  butter  and  a  cupful  and  a 
half  of  brown  sugar.  Dissolve  one  teaspoonful  of  soda 
in  one  cupful  of  boiling  water  and  add  to  butter  and 
sugar  mixture.  Mix  together  two  cupfuls  of  dry  oatmeal, 
two  cupfuls  of  flour  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
add  to  the  other  ingredients.  Flavor  to  taste.  Lastly  add 
two  well  beaten  eggs  and  drop  from  spoon  into  greased 
bag  or  flat  tin  and  place  in  bag.  Seal  and  bake  in  mod- 
erate oven  about  fifteen  minutes. 

German  Peach  Cake.—  Make  a  rich  baking  powder 
biscuit  dough  and  roll  out  in  sheets  to  fit  a  long  biscuit 
pan.  It  should  not  be  more  than  a  half-inch  thick. 
Brush  the  top  with  butter  and  cover  with  slices  of  peach 
arranged  in  symmetrical  overlapping  rows,  or  half 
peaches  with  the  rounded  side  up.  Sprinkle  generously 
with  sugar,  cover  with  another  tin  to  prevent  the  fruit 
from  becoming  mushy  or  hardened,  put  in  bag  and  bake 
about  half  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven.  This  is  a  good  substi- 
tute for  peach  pie. 

Pork  Cake.—  This  is  an  old  New  England  dish  that 
has  been  relegated  to  the  background  these  many  years, 
but  is  lately  coming  to  the  fore.  A  gray  haired  New 
York  physician,  dining  at  my  house  the  other  night,  de- 
clared that  his  old  Connecticut  aunt's  pork  cake  was  one 


110  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

of  the  dearest  remembered  gustatorial  delights  of  his 
boyhood. 

To  make  it  chop  one  pound  of  fat  pork  fine.  Pour 
over  it  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  then  stir  in  three  cupfuls 
brown  sugar,  one  pound  of  seeded  raisins,  eight  cupfuls 
of  flour  and  two  rounding  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  dissolved 
in  a  little  water.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  a  half 
teaspoon ful  cloves  and  nutmeg,  mix  thoroughly  and  bake 
in  a  slow  oven  like  fruit  cake.  If  preferred,  two  beaten 
eggs  may  be  added  in  which  case  less  flour  will  be  re- 
quired. 

Potato  Chocolate  Cake.— To  two  cupfuls  of  sugar 
and  two-thirds  cup  butter  beaten  to  a  cream,  add  yolks  of 
four  eggs  beaten  until  lemon  colored  and  light  and  a  half 
cupful  of  sweet  milk.  Next  add  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water,  one  cup  mash- 
ed potato,  two  cups  of  flour,  and  four  squares  of  chocolate 
melted,  one  cup  chopped  walnuts,  a  teaspoonful  of  van- 
illa. Lastly  fold  in  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  four  eggs. 
This  may  be  baked  either  in  a  large  loaf  or  in  layers  in 
a  paper  bag. 

Potato  Caramel  Cake. —  Beat  to  a  ceram  two-thirds 
cup  of  butter  and  two  cups  of  sugar,  add  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs  beaten  until  light  and  mix  with  a  half  cup  of 
sweet  milk  and  one  cup  mashed  potato.  Add  two  squares 
of  bitter  chocolate  melted,  one-half  teaspoonful  nutmeg, 
and  two  cups  flour  sifted  with  two  teaspoonfuls  baking 
powder.  Fold  in  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  stiff,  a  cupful 
of  nut  meats,  preferably  English  walnuts,  chopped.  Bake 
slowly  for  about  an  hour  in  a  gingerbread  tin  in  paper 
bag,  making  the  cake  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two  inches 
thick;  or  else  in  layer  tins  together  with  white  icing 
This  will  make  four  layers. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  111 

Auburn  Pound  Cake. — Beat  to  a  cream  three- 
fourths  pounds  of  butter  and  one  pound  fine  granulated 
sugar.  Add  the  yolks  of  nine  eggs  beaten  light  and  one 
pound  flour  measured  after  sifting  and  then  sifted  again 
with  a  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  baking  powder.  Fold 
in  the  stiffly  whipped  whites  and  flavor  with  vanilla,  al- 
mond or  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon  or  a  wine 
glass  of  sherry.  Pour  into  well  buttered  thin  tin  mould 
and  seal  in  bags.  Bake  an  hour  and  a  quarter  or  an  hour 
and  a  half  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Raisin  Nut  Cakes.—  For  raisin  nut  cakes  for  after- 
noon tea,  beat  six  eggs  lightly,  beating  the  whites  and 
with  an  even  teaspoon  of  soda,  one  teaspoon  of 
sugar  creamed  with  a  cupful  of  butter,  a  cupful  and  a 
half  of  milk  and  three  cupfuls  and  a  half  of  flour.  Add  a 
cupful  of  chopped  walnuts,  two  pounds  of  chopped  rais- 
ins, a  wineglass  of  brandy,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking 
powder  and  spice  to  taste.  Make  into  small  cakes,  put  on 
tin  in  bag  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Sour  Cream  Cake.-—  Beat  together  one  cup  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  one  cup  of  sour  cream,  add  two  eggs 
beaten  light,  one  and  one-half  cups  of  flour  sifted  twice 
with  an  even  teaspoon  of  soda  twice,  one  teaspoon  of 
vanilla  and  one  cup  of  seeded  and  cut  raisins  rolled  light- 
ly in  flour.  Beat  to  make  the  batter  creamy  and  bake  at 
once  in  a  rather  shallow  pan  sealed  in  a  paper  bag. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
FRUITS. 

Baked  Apples. — WASH,  but  do  not  peel;  cut  out 
specks  and  bruises,  core,  fill  the  bottom  of  the  core-space 
with  a  bit  of  butter,  over  which  pile  sugar  and  add  a 
dusting  of  cinnamon.  A  clove  stuck  in  the  side  may  take 
the  place  of  the  cinnamon.  Seal  inside  a  well-greased 
bag  and  bake  eighteen  to  twenty  minutes  in  a  fairly  hot 
oven.  Serve  hot  with  sugar  and  cream  or  a  hard  sauce. 

Baked  Apple  Dumplings. — Make  a  regular  short- 
cake crust,  using  one  pint  of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls 
baking  powder  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  sifted  together 
three  times,  one-quarter  cup  butter  rubbed  in  with  the 
tips  of  the  fingers,  and  one  egg  beaten  and  mixed  with 
three-quarters  cup  milk.  Roll  out  and  cut  in  five-inch 
squares.  Have  ready  three  large  apples,  peeled,  cored 
and  halved  and  lay  each  piece  on  a  square  of  the  paste. 
Fold  the  pastry  over  each  apple  like  a  blanket,  lapping 
the  four  corners  at  the  top  and  pressing  them  down  firm- 
ly. Turn  the  dumplings  upside  down  in  a  well-buttered 
bag,  dot  with  bits  of  butter  and  sprinkle  with  sugar.  Set 
the  bag  in  a  quick  oven  and  bake  to  a  russet  brown. 
This  will  take  about  half  an  hour.  Serve  with  any 
sweet  sauce,  or  rich,  sweet  cream. 

Cold  Baked  Apples  With  Rum.—  Peel,  core  and 
bake  the  apples  in  a  buttered  bag,  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar  to  each  apple.  Put  in  the  serving  dish,  and  while 

112 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY.  113 

still  very  hot  pour  over  each  a  dessertspoonful  of  rum. 
Let  cool  and  serve  with  cake  or  crisped  water  biscuit. 

Cinnamon  Apples.— Peel,  core  and  quarter  six  good 
cooking  apples,  preferably  greenings.  Melt  a  table 
spoonful  of  butter  in  a  warm  bowl  and  stir  the  apples  in 
it  until  coated  with  the  butter.  Mix  a  teaspoonful  of 
ground  cinnamon  with  a  half  cup  of  granulated  sugar, and 
stir  into  the  apples.  Have  a  paper  bag  thoroughly  but- 
tered and  put  the  apples  in  it.  Rinse  out  the  bowl  with 
a  cup  of  hot  water,  add  it  to  the  apples,  seal  carefully, 
place  on  a  broiler  which  rests  on  a  pie  plate  and  bake  in  a 
hot  oven  fifteen  minutes.  Half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream 
over  the  apples  when  served  is  an  addition,  but  they  are 
delicious,  cooked  in  this  way,  without  it. 

Apples  Stuffed  With  Figs. — Steam  tender  as  many 
figs  as  you  desire,  chop  into  dice  and  roll  each  piece  in 
powdered  sugar  seasoned  with  cinnamon.  Core  large, 
tart  apples  and  fill  the  cavities  with  the  figs.  Bag  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven,  adding  a  little  hot  water.  When  ten- 
der, remove  carefully  to  the  serving  dish  and  pour  over 
them  a  syrup  made  by  boiling  a  half  cup  of  sugar  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  water.  Flavor  to  taste  and  pour  over 
the  apples.  Serve  cold  with  whipped  or  plain  cream. 

Baked  Apples  and  Nuts.—  For  a  half  dozen  large 
apples  a  good  three-fourths  cup  of  nut  meats,  butternuts, 
black  walnuts  or  hickory  nuts — will  be  required.  Chop 
the  meats  fine  and  add  a  half  cup  of  sugar.  Core  the 
apples  and  fill  the  centres  with  the  nuts  and  sugar.  Put 
in  a  rather  deep  pan,  with  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  add- 
ed, bag  and  bake.  When  tender  remove  carefully,  place 
in  a  pretty  dish,  pour  the  juice  over  the  apples,  and 
crown  with  whipped  cream  or  a  meringue  made  from  the 
whites  of  two  eggs. 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Raisin  Apples. —  A  simple  dessert  enjoyed  by  the 
children  consists  of  apples,  cored  and  each  cavity  filled 
with  sugar,  nutmeg,  a  bit  of  butter  and  two  or  three 
raisins.  Add  one  cupful  of  hot  water,  put  in  bag  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven.  This  may  be  varied  occasionally 
by  placing  a  meringue  on  the  top  of  each  apple  when 
done,  and  cooking  in  a  slow  oven  for  seven  minutes 
longer.  Serve  cold. 

Baked  Apple  Sauce. —  Peel  and  core  firm  apples  of 
good  flavor.  Stick  three  cloves  in  each  and  put  bits  of 
mace  and  cinnamon  in  the  core  spaces.  Put  them  in  a 
well  buttered  bag  with  two  heaping  cupfuls  of  sugar  and 
a  half  cupful  of  water.  Cook  thirty  minutes.  Have  the 
oven  very  hot  at  first,  but  slack  heat  after  seven  minutes. 
Lemon  juice  instead  of  water  makes  a  richer  flavored 
sauce.  In  that  case  add  a  half  cupful  more  sugar  at  the 
outset. 

Baked  Bananas. — Peel  and  remove  coarse  threads, 
cut  the  pulp  in  halves  lengthwise,  dust  with  sugar  and 
sprinkle  with  lemon  juice,  put  in  buttered  bag  and  bake 
fifteen  minutes,  or  roll  the  bananas  in  hot  marmalade, 
then  bake. 

Stuffed  Dates.— Select  large,  fine  fruit,  wash  quick- 
ly and  remove  the  pit.  Put  into  the  cavity  a  bit  of  crys- 
tallized ginger  or  citron,  a  nut  or  little  candied  peel,  roll 
in  confectioner's  sugar  and  lay  in  lightly  buttered  bag 
left  open  at  one  end.  Put  in  coolish  oven  to  harden. 

Baked  Gooseberries. — Put  into  a  greased  bag  a  pint 
of  "  topped  and  tailed  "  gooseberries,  add  a  cupful  each 
sugar  and  water,  seal  and  cook  twenty  minutes. 

Baked  Peaches.—  Pour  boiling  water  over  the  fruit, 
then  rub  off  the  skins  and  place  in  buttered  bag  without 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  115 

removing  the  pits.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  water  for  each 
peach,  seal  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 
When  done,  sweeten  to  taste  and  set  aside  to  chill  before 
using.  Serve  with  sweet  cream. 

Baked  Pears. —  Select  ripe,  fine-flavored  fruit,  snip 
out  the  blossom  end  and  stick  in  a  clove.  If  the  skin  is 
thin,  do  not  peel.,  but  if  tough,  remove,  put  in  buttered 
bag  with  a  little  water,  seal  and  cook  from  fifteen  to 
thirty  minutes  according  to  the  quality  of  the  fruit. 

Baked  Plums. —  Put  in  buttered  bag  with  a  little 
water  and  cook  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes.  Sweeten 
to  taste  when  done. 

Baked  Quinces. —  Wash,  core  and  peel,  fill  the  cen- 
ters with  sugar  and  put  in  greased  bag  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water  allowed  for  each  quince.  Seal  and 
bake  slowly  for  an  hour,  until  the  quince  is  tender  but 
not  mushy.  Serve  with  the  quince  syrup  and  a  spoonful 
of  whipped  cream  on  top  of  each  quince. 

Baked  Raisins. —  Remove  stems,  clean  well,  put  in  a 
colander  and  wash  thoroughly.  Put  in  buttered  bag  with 
a  cupful  of  water  for  each  cupful  of  raisins.  Seal  and 
cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  A  mixture  of  dried  apri- 
cots, prunes  and  cherries  is  nice  with  the  raisins,  but 
these  fruits  need  long  soaking  in  cold  water  before  add- 
ing to  the  raisins  and  cooking. 

Chestnut  Patties. — Beat  together,  until  smooth,  one 
egg  and  one  cupful  of  pulverized  sugar.  Add  one  cup- 
ful of  chestnut  meats  that  have  been  put  through  a  nut 
grinder,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder.  Beat  lightly,  then  drop  by  spoonfuls 
on  buttered  tins.  Dust  with  pulverized  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon. Put  in  bag  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


CAPTER  XXI. 
PASTRY. 

USE  tin  or  agate  pie  plates  for  paper  bag  cookery. 
Line  with  a  delicate  crust,  and  prick  the  bottom  with  a 
fork.  Turn  in  whatever  filling  you  elect  to  have,  and 
put  on  top  crust  or  the  latticed  bars.  Cut  a  cross  in  the 
center  of  a  solid  crust  and  turn  back  the  points  or  prick 
with  a  fork.  Any  pie  can  be  baked  in  a  paper  bag  with 
advantage.  Cook  two  pies  at  once,  shifting  midway  in 
the  cooking  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  shelves  and  vice 
versa.  Have  the  oven  hot  when  the  pies  go  in,  but  re- 
duce the  heat  as  soon  as  the  bag  corners  turn  brown. 
Average  pies  require  about  half  an  hour  for  the  baking. 

Plain  Pie  Crust. — For  each  pie  allow  a  heaping  cup- 
ful of  pastry  flour  and  sift  into  a  cold  bowl  with  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  saltspoonful  of  baking  pow- 
der. Have  ready  a  quarter  cupful  of  butter  that  has 
been  washed  in  cold  water,  then  chilled  on  the  ice.  Work 
into  the  sifted  flour  a  quarter  cupful  of  lard  or 
vegetable  shortening,  using  the  tips  of  the  fingers 
or  a  case  knife.  As  soon  as  the  flour  begins 
to  feel  like  coarse  meal,  moisten  to  a  dough  with 
cold  water.  Add  a  little  at  a  time,  handling  the  crust  as 
lightly  as  possible.  It  will  take  about  a  quarter  of  a 
cupful  of  water  to  a  heaping  cupful  of  flour.  Toss  on  a 
smooth  board,  dredged  lightly  with  flour,  pat  and  roll  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  keeping  the  sheet  of 
paste  a  little  wider  than  it  is  long.  Now  place  the  chilled 

116 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  117 

butter  on  the  center  of  the  lower  half  of  the  paste  and 
cover  by  folding  the  upper  part  of  the  sheet  over  it. 
Press  the  edges  together  so  as  to  inclose  as  much  air  as 
possible.  Fold  the  right  side  of  the  paste  over  the  in- 
closed butter  and  the  left  side  under.  Turn  the  paste 
half  way  around,  pat  into  shape  and  roll  out  lightly  hav- 
ing the  sheet  of  paste  longer  than  it  is  wide,  and  lifting 
often  to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  board.  Dredge  slight- 
ly with  flour  when  necessary.  Fold  again  so  as  to  make 
three  layers,  divide  in  halves,  pat  and  roll  out  the  one  in- 
tended for  the  lower  crust  having  it  a  little  larger  than 
the  pie  plate,  to  allow  for  shrinkage.  Fold  back  the 
rolled  out  crust  and  readjust  in  the  pie  tin  letting  it 
come  well  up  over  the  edge,  then  pressing  back.  Turn 
in  the  filling  then  roll  out  the  upper  crust.  When  this 
reaches  the  required  size,  fold  over  and  perforate  the 
center,  piercing  with  a  fork  or  using  a  knife  to  make  anjr 
pattern  desired,  and  place  in  position  over  the  pie. 

Apple  Pie.—  Peel  and  slice  thin,  tart,  well  flavored 
apples.  Put  in  crust,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  dust  with 
cinnamon  or  nutmeg,  cover  with  latticed  or  full  crust, 
put  in  bag,  and  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  steady  oven. 

A  New  Apple  Pie.—  Peel  and  core  about  eight  or  ten 
apples  or  as  many  as  are  wanted.  Make  a  rich  pastry 
dough  and  cut  in  strips  about  two  inches  wide.  Wind  a 
strip  around  each  apple,  but  do  not  cover  it.  Fill  the 
center  of  each  apple  with  butter,  sugar  and  water. 
Sprinkle  with  nutmeg,  put  in  bag,  then  in  the  oven  and 
bake.  Serve  with  or  without  cream. 

Deep  Apple  Pie  With  Cream  Cheese. — Bake  a 
nice  apple  pie  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before 
dinner.  Have  a  small  cream  cheese  pressed  through  a 
ricer  and  mixed  with  a  cup  of  whipped  cream  and  a  little 


118  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

salt.  Press  through  a  pastry  tube  or  tin  funnel  on  top 
of  the  pie  in  a  pattern,  and  serve  warm  for  dessert. 
The  cheese  and  cream  combination  may  also  be  used  on 
a  two  crust  apple  pie. 

Cranberry  Pie. —  Line  a  rather  deep  pie  plate  with 
a  plain  crust.  Put  on  a  border  of  richer  paste,  fill  with 
cranberries  cooked  according  to  directions  for  stewed 
cranberries,  and  put  strips  of  crust  over  the  top,  making 
squares  or  diamonds  as  preferred.  Put  in  bag  and  bake. 

Cranberry  and  Raisin  Pie. — Allow  to  each  pie  a 
cup  and  a  half  cranberries  and  a  half  cup  of  raisins.  The 
latter  should  be  seeded  and  the  berries  washed  and  cut 
in  two.  Mix  with  them  a  cup  of  sugar,  a  tablespoon  of 
flour,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  butter.  Fill  a  pie  plate  lined 
with  crust,  heaping  up  slightly  in  the  middle.  Cover 
with  an  upper  crust,  bag,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Lemon  Pie. — Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  lightly,  add 
one  cup  of  sugar  slowly  and  then  the  juice  and  grated 
yellow  rind  of  one  lemon.  Beat  hard  and  stir  in  two 
even  tablespoons  of  flour  made  smooth  in  one  cup  of 
milk.  Turn  into  a  paste  lined  plate  and  bake  about  half 
an  hour  in  a  paper  bag.  Cool  partly  and  cover  with  the 
whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  stiff  with  six  even  table- 
spoons of  powdered  sugar.  Pile  roughly  and  set  in  a 
very  cool  oven  to  become  firm. 

Mince  Pie. — A  simple  rule  for  making  mince  meat  by 
measure,  calls  for  a  pint  bowl  of  well  cooked  beef  chop- 
ped to  the  finest  mince  and  measured  after  chopping,  two 
bowls  of  tart  apples  chopped  into  coarse  bits  and  a  half 
bowl  chopped  suet.  Add  to  this  a  pound  of  seeded 
raisins,  also  chopped,  a  pound  of  currants,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  citron  cut  in  thin  slices,  a  tablespoonful  each 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  119 

of  powdered  cinnamon,  cloves  and  nutmeg.  Use  enough 
sweet  cider  to  make  moist,  then  add  a  bowl  of  sugar  and 
an  even  teaspoonful  salt.  Scald  well  and  put  away  in 
a  stone  jar.  When  you  make  the  pies  add  a  few  whole 
raisins,  chopped  nut  meats  or  any  jelly  you  have  on 
hand. 

When  mince  pie  is  to  be  reheated  for  dinner  and 
served  hot,  grated  cheese  may  be  sprinkled  over  the  top 
just  before  setting  it  in  the  oven  to  .heat. 

Mock  Mince  Pie. —  To  four  quarts  green  tomatoes, 
chopped  fine,  allow  three  pounds  brown  sugar,  the  juice 
of  two  lemons  and  their  yellow  rind,  grated,  a  table- 
spoonful  each  cinnamon,  allspice  and  salt,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  cloves  and  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  nutmeg. 
Put  into  a  porcelain  lined  kettle  and  simmer  gently  until 
reduced  one  half  in  bulk.  Now  add  two  pounds  and  one- 
half  seeded  raisins,  or  part  raisins  and  part  currants  or 
chopped  prunes  and  a  cup  of  boiled  cider.  Then  cook  an 
hour  or  two  longer  until  thick.  Bake  as  any  mince  pie. 

Pecan  Pie  With  One  Crust.—  One  cup  of  sugar, 
three  eggs,  one  cup  of  sweet  cream,  one  cup  of  pecans 
well  mashed.  Beat  very  light,  pour  into  two  pie  pans 
that  are  lined  with  good  rich  paste,  put  in  bag  and  bake. 

Real  Old  Fashioned  Pumpkin  Pie.— If  you  are  fortu- 
nate enough  to  get  a  genuine  old  fashioned  field  pump- 
kin, you  may  be  thankful.  If  forbidden  that  privilege, 
the  canned  pumpkin  or  the  dried  pumpkin  flour,  or  again 
a  Hubbard  squash  or  a  big  yellow  one,  may  be  so  man- 
ipulated as  to  deceive  even  a  connoisseur  on  pumpkin 
pies,  into  thinking  he  has  the  very  kind  that  "  Mother 
used  to  make,"  and  giving  thanks  accordingly.  If  the 
field  pumpkin  is  yours,  wash,  cut  up  without  peeling, 
scrape  out  all  the  wooly  fiber,  then  put  over  the  fire  on 


120  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

the  back  of  the  stove.  Add  just  a  little  water  to  keep 
it  from  sticking  on  the  bottom,  cover  closely  and  steam 
gently  for  six  or  eight  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
the  pumpkin  pulp  should  be  thoroughly  cooked  in  its  own 
juices.  Take  up,  cool  a  little,  then  pull  off  the  skin  with 
a  sharp  knife.  Press  through  a  sieve  and  let  it  stand 
overnight  in  a  press  so  as  to  remove  the  superfluous 
liquid,  which  should  be  saved  to  use  in  making  Boston 
brown  bread.  When  ready  to  bake,  measure  the  pulp 
and  to  every  five  cupfuls  allow  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  grated  nutmeg,  a  tablespoonful  of  mace,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  ginger  and  a  large  cupful  of  sugar.  Beat 
four  eggs  and  stir  into  the  pumpkin  pulp,  together  with 
four  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk  and  a  half  cupful  cream. 
Beat  well  and  taste  to  see  if  it  is  sweet  enough.  Turn 
into  plates  lined  with  good  pastry,  bag,  and  bake  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  until  a  golden  brown  and  firm  in  the 
center.  Serve  with  good  American  cheese.  Some  old- 
fashioned  cooks  like  their  pumpkin  pies  flavored  with  a 
little  rose  water. 

In  making  pies  of  the  canned  pumpkin,  observe  the 
same  proportions.  If  the  pumpkin  flour  is  used,  spread 
on  a  tin  and  brown  before  adding  the  milk. 

The  English  fashion  of  baking  pumpkin  as  well  as 
mince  pies  in  individual  shells,  is  preferred  by  many 
who  do  not  feel  the  compelling  force  of  tradition.  A 
new  wrinkle  for  the  woman  who  holds  to  her  pumpkin 
pie  for  Thanksgiving,  but  wishes  to  present  it  in  very 
modern  guise  is  to  serve  it  with  cottage  cheese  balls  and 
strained  honey.  The  combination  of  flavors  is  certainly 
a  most  happy  one.  The  cheese  balls  are  piled  in  a  pretty 
dish  and  the  honey  served  from  a  glass  bowl. 

Individual  English  Apple  Tart.—  Peel  and  core  tart 
apples,  put  into  a  large  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  121 

water,  stew  gently  until  the  apples  are  tender  but  un- 
broken. Sweeten  to  taste.  Line  the  edges  of  a  deep 
pie  tin  with  crust,  then  fill  the  center  of  the  dish  with  ap- 
ples, dropping  into  the  center  of  each  a  spoonful  of 
orange  marmalade.  Cover  the  top  of  the  dish  with 
strips  of  pastry  arranged  lattice  fashion,  bag,  and  bake 
quickly  until  brown.  Serve  hot. 

Colonial  Pumpkin  Tartlets.—  To  one  quart  of 
cooked  and  sifted  pumpkin  add  one  tablespoonful  each 
of  butter  and  flour,  six  well  beaten  eggs,  a  cupful  of 
sugar,  a  quarter  teaspoonful  each  of  mace  and  nutmeg, 
four  teaspoonfuls  of  ginger  and  one  gill  of  milk.  Bake 
in  patty-pans  lined  with  rich  flaky  crust,  set  in  paper  bag. 
Remove  from  pans  before  serving.  A  touch  of  novelty 
is  given  by  topping  each  tartlet  with  a  generous  portion 
of  maple  syrup  or  strained  honey. 

TURNOVERS. 

Apple  and  Cheese  Turnovers. — Make  a  crust, 
using  six  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  lard  and  butter,  half  and  half,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt  and  just  enough  water  to  roll  out.  Mark  out  into 
squares  of  about  four  inches.  Have  ready  some  nice  tart 
apples  sliced  fine,  and  also  cheese  sliced  very  thin.  Fill 
each  one  with  apples,  sprinkle  sugar  and  cinnamon  over 
the  apple,  put  a  tiny  piece  of  butter  on  top,  then  turn 
up  the  edges  of  the  crust,  overlapping  the  upper  side 
about  two  inches.  Place  in  a  buttered  bag,  and  having  wet 
the  edges  of  the  crust  with  milk,  bake  to  a  nice  brown. 
Remove  from  the  oven,  raise  up  the  upper  crust,  put  in 
the  cheese,  re-cover,  turn  a  tin  over  the  turnovers  and 
stand  in  the  oven  again  for  ten  minutes,  leaving  the  oven 
door  open.  This  softens  the  cheese.  Eat  while  warm. 
Caraway  seeds  may  be  used  in  place  of  cinnamon  if  de- 


122  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

sired.     The  turnovers  may  be  eaten  plain  with  cream  or 
with  a  liquid  sauce  as  preferred. 

Apricot  or  Plum  Jam  Turnovers. — Make  a  good 
crust  and  roll  out  twice.  Mark  a  square  and  spread 
thickly  with  jam.  Fold  over  two  sides  first  and  pinch 
together,  then  fold  over  the  other  two  sides  in  the  same 
way.  Brush  over  with  milk  and  sprinkle  with  brown 
sugar.  Put  into  well  greased  bag  and  bake  thirty 
minutes. 

Mince  Turnovers.— Make  the  original  round  of 
paste  about  four  inches  across.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of 
mince  meat  upon  it,  fold  over  very  neatly  and  pinch  the 
edges  together.  Flatten  and  cook  inside  a  buttered  bag. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 
SHORT  CAKES 

Banana  Short  Cake.— BEAT  to  a  cream  one-half  cup- 
ful butter  and  one  of  sugar.  Add  two  well-beaten  eggs, 
a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  sifted 
with  a  pint  of  flour.  Flavor  with  vanilla.  Mix  lightly 
and  roll  out  into  a  sheet  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Cut 
into  rounds  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  having 
brushed  each  one  over  with  melted  butter,  pile  on  top  of 
each  other  and  put  in  buttered  bag.  Bake  twelve 
minutes,  separate,  and  spread  between  the  layers  a  thick 
filling  of  sliced  bananas  flavored  with  lemon  juice  and 
sweetened  to  taste.  Serve  with  Foamy  Sauce. 

Peach  Short  Cake. —  Use  for  this  either  fresh  peaches 
or  canned  and  make  in  one  large  short  cake  or  individual 
ones  which  are  really  nicer  in  paper  bag  cookery.  For 
the  latter  sift  together  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  salt.  Rub  in  with  the  tips  of  the 
fingers  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  then  add  one  beaten 
egg  and  milk  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Cut  out  like  biscuit, 
bag  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  When  baked,  split  in  two, 
spread  lightly  with  butter  and  fill  with  the  sweetened 
peaches  and  whipped  cream,  a  layer  of  peaches  first  and 
cream  on  top.  Cover  the  little  short  cakes  in  the  same 
way,  piling  up  the  whipped  cream  on  top. 

123 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Rhubarb  Short  Cake.—  Stew  rhubarb  and  sweeten 
to  taste.  Make  a  short  cake  batter,  using  one-quarter 
cupful  of  butter  and  a  half  cupful  sugar  creamed  to- 
gether, one  egg  well  beaten,  one  quarter  cupful  sweet 
milk  and  one  cupful  of  flour  sifted  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder.  Make  in  two  large  layers  or  indi- 
vidual ones,  and  bake  in  paper  bag.  When  done,  spread 
with  the  rhubarb  filling  and  serve  with  whipped  cream 
or  a  cream  sauce. 

Old  Fashioned  Strawberry  Short  Cake.—  The  real 
old-fashioned  strawberry  short  cake  may  be  made  with 
sour  cream  or  rich  sour  milk  and  soda,  or  sweet  milk  and 
baking  powder.  Sometimes  an  egg  is  added  and  a 
tablespoon ful  of  sugar,  but  it  is  a  far  cry  from  the 
French  strawberry  short  cake  of  hotels  and  restaurants 
which  is  really  a  cake,  either  sponge  or  layer,  with  whole 
berries  between  the  layers  and  thick  whipped  cream  or  a 
meringue  on  top.  To  make  the  genuine  old-fashioned 
sour  milk  biscuit  short  cake,  which  is  really  more  tender 
than  that  made  with  sweet  milk,  put  four  cups  sifted 
pastry  flour  in  a  mixing  bowl  with  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  mix  well.  Add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  chop  fine,  using  a  silver  knife.  Dissolve  a  level 
teaspoonful  of  soda  in  a  little  hot  water  and  stir  into  a 
large  cupful  of  sour  cream  or  rich  sour  milk.  When  it 
stops  "purring"  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  one 
well  beaten  egg  to  the  milk  and  turn  into  the  sifted  flour. 
Mix  well  together  with  a  spatula  or  flexible  knife, 
handling  as  little  as  possible,  then  turn  out  on  to  a  floured 
board.  The  dough  should  be  soft  enough  to  roll  easily. 
Divide  and  roll  lightly  and  quickly  into  two  thin  sheets. 
These  may  be  baked  separately  in  well  greased  round 
tins  in  a  paper  bag  or  laid  one  on  top  of  the  other  with 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  125 

a  thin  coating  of  butter  between  and  baked  in  one  bag. 
Bake  in  a  very  hot  oven.  When  done,  separate.  Have 
ready  a  quart  of  ripe  berries  washed,  crushed  and  su- 
gared. This  should  have  been  done  before  beginning 
the  dough,  so  that  the  sugar  will  have  time  to  draw  out 
the  rich  juice  of  the  berries.  Cover  the  lower  half  of 
the  short  cake  with  a  thick  layer  of  these  berries,  place 
the  second  cake  on  top  and  cover  with  the  rest  of  the 
crushed  and  sweetened  berries  or  large  whole  ones  dusted 
with  powdered  sugar.  Serve  with  thick  cream  or  a 
crushed  berry  sauce. 

PUDDINGS. 

Almond  Pudding. — Blanche  one  pound  of  almonds 
and  grind  to  a  smooth  paste  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  rose 
water.  Add  a  wine  glass  of  wine  and  a  half  cupful  of 
cream  thickened  with  a  large  spoonful  of  bread  crumbs. 
Add  a  half  pound  of  sugar,  seven  well  beaten  eggs  and  a 
half  teaspooiiful  of  grated  nutmeg.  Put  in  a  thin  walled 
pudding  dish,  set  in  bag,  seal  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

Apple  and  Fig  Pudding.—  Select  large  tart  baking 
apples,  wash  and  core.  Stuff  each  apple  with  a  fig  rolled 
small  as  possible  or  chopped,  as  preferred.  Put  in  but- 
tered bag  and  bake  slowly  until  tender,  but  not  broken. 
Place  in  a  glass  dish  and  cover  with  a  thick  boiled  cus- 
tard. Decorate  each  apple  with  a  candied  or  Maraschino 
cherry  and  serve  with  sweet  wafers. 

Banana  Pudding.— Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  and 
whites  of  two.  Add  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  scant  half  cup- 
ful softened  butter,  a  cupful  stale  cake  crumbs  and  a 
cupful  of  milk.  Beat  all  together  well,  then  add  three 


126  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

bananas  sliced  thin,  and  the  juice  of  a  half  lemon.  Put 
into  a  basin  then  in  a  well  buttered  bag,  seal  and  bake 
half  an  hour,  take  out,  cover  with  a  meringue  made  from 
the  whipped  white  of  the  egg  that  was  left  over  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sugar  with  a  little  lemon  juice  to  flavor. 
Strew  a  little  candied  peel  over  the  meringue  and  set  in 
the  oven,  which  should  be  quite  cool  for  the  meringue  to 
rise  slowly  and  stiffen.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

Farmer's  Plum  Pudding. —  Put  into  a  basin  two 
cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  with  two  level  teaspoonfuls  baking 
powder,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  level  teaspoonful  ginger 
and  cinnamon.  Add  one-half  cupful  sugar,  one  cupful 
chopped  suet,  one-half  cupful  each  candied  peel  and  cur- 
rants and  raisins.  Make  to  batter  consistency  with  one- 
half  cupful  each  molasses  and  milk  and  one  beaten  egg. 
Put  in  small  buttered  molds,  set  in  paper  bag,  pour  in 
enough  cold  water  to  come  three  parts  up  the  sides,  seal 
and  bake  two  hours,  reducing  the  heat  of  the  oven  after 
the  first  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  hard  or  foamy  sauce. 

Peach  Betty. —  Sprinkle  a  layer  of  crumbs  in  a  but- 
tered baking  dish  and  over  this  a  layer  of  peach  quarters. 
Sprinkle  with  sugar,  then  repeat  a  layer  of  crumbs  and 
peaches  and  sugar  until  the  dish  is  filled,  having  the 
crumbs  on  top.  Put  in  buttered  bag  and  bake  thirty-five 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  with  sweetened 
cream.  To  prepare  the  buttered  crumbs  melt  a  little 
butter  and  pour  over  the  crumbs. 

Peach  Cobbler. — For  this  the  richest  and  ripest 
peaches  are  none  too  good.  Some  variety  of  the  yellow 
peach  is  usually  chosen  because  of  its  superior  richness. 
For  its  baking  a  pudding  dish  at  least  three  and  a  half 
inches  deep  is  chosen.  This  is  lined  with  a  rich  crust,  a 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  127 

square  of  the  dough  being  taken  from  the  bottom.  Now 
peel  enough  ripe  and  luscious  peaches  to  fill  the  dish, 
tearing  them  apart  but  leaving  the  pits  in  to  impart  their 
superior  flavor.  Sweeten  abundantly,  add  about  two 
tablespoonfuls  water,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  cut  in 
bits.  Cover  with  a  layer  of  puff  paste,  sealing  it  down 
carefully  on  the  sides  to  the  border,  so  as  to  lose  none 
of  the  juices.  Bag  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  forty- 
five  minutes.  When  nearly  done,  draw  to  the  edge  of 
the  oven,  open  the  top  of  the  bag,  dust  with  pow- 
dered sugar  and  set  back  a  few  moments  longer  for  the 
crust  to  glaze.  This  is  perfection,  whether  eaten  hot 
or  cold,  serving  it  alone,  with  cream  or  with  a  hard 
sauce  as  preferred. 

Peach  Roly  Poly.—  Make  a  sweet  biscuit  dough. 
Roll  out  thin  and  spread  with  a  layer  of  sliced  or  chopped 
peaches  and  roll  the  dough  over  as  for  jelly  roll.  Put 
in  buttered  bag  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Plum  Roly  Poly. —  Wash  and  stew  any  ripe  sound 
plums  and  remove  the  pits.  If  very  juicy,  drain  away 
the  most  of  the  juice.  Sweeten  to  taste.  Make  a  good 
biscuit  dough  or  puff  paste  as  preferred,  roll  out  in  long 
strips,  sprinkle  sugar  on  the  upper  side,  then  spread 
thinly  with  the  stewed  plums,  roll  up  and  pinch  the  ends 
tight.  Put  in  buttered  bag  and  cook  thirty  minutes. 
Serve  with  a  sauce  made  from  the  extra  juice  sweeteend 
and  slightly  thickened  with  a  little  cornstarch. 

Rye  Bread  Pudding. —  Toast  stale  rye  bread  to  a 
golden  brown,  then  roll  into  fine  crumbs.  Brush  small 
custard  cups  or  a  mould  with  melted  butter,  sprinkle 
over  a  few  currants,  raisins,  prunes  (cut  fine)  or  figs, 


128  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

then  fill  with  crumbs.  Beat  three  eggs  without  sep- 
arating until  light,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  a 
pint  of  milk  (with  vanilla  or  nutmeg  to  flavor)  and  pour 
carefully  over  the  bread  crumbs.  Let  them  stand  ten 
minutes,  until  the  mixture  has  soaked  into  the  crumbs; 
then  set  in  a  paper  bag  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  and  cook 
like  a  custard  in  the  oven.  It  will  take  about  half  an 
hour.  Test  by  slipping  the  blade  of  the  knife  down  the 
side  of  the  bag.  If  it  comes  up  clear,  the  pudding  is 
sufficiently  baked.  Serve  hot  with  lemon  or  egg  sauce 
or  fruit  syrup. 

Tapioca  Apple  Pudding.—  Soak  one  cupful  tapioca 
in  three  pints  cold  water  over  night.  In  the  morning  put 
on  to  boil  and  cook  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  until  it  looks 
clear.  Add  a  quart  and  a  half  peeled  and  quartered 
apples,  one  cup  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  salt,  and  lemon 
juice  or  extract  to  flavor.  Turn  into  a  buttered  dish, 
put  in  bag  and  bake  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
cold  serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 

A  White  Plum  Pudding. —  Beat  to  a  cream  a  half 
cup  of  sugar  and  three-quarters  cup  of  butter.  Add  four 
eggs  well  beaten,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  two  cups  milk, 
a  quart  of  flour  mixed  with  one-half  cup  shredded 
citron,  one-half  cup  currants,  a  teaspoonful  grated  nut- 
meg and  a  teaspoonful  vanilla.  Just  before  turning 
into  the  mould  stir  in  two  even  tablespoonfuls  pure  bak- 
ing powder.  Put  in  bag,  surround  with  water,  steam  two 
hours  and  serve  with  any  good  sauce. 

PUDDING   SAUCES. 

Caramel  Sauce. —  Put  one-half  cupful  of  sugar  over 
the  fire  in  a  clean,  smooth  saucepan  and  stir  until  it  be- 


STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY  129 

comes  a  light  brown  color.  Pour  in  a  half  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  simmer  ten  minutes,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  serve  with  pudding  or  fritters. 

Cornstarch  Pudding  Sauce. — Beat  together  one 
tablespoonful  cornstarch,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
and  a  half  cupful  of  brown  sugar.  Set  on  the  stove  until 
heated,  then  turn  in  hot  water  a  little  at  a  time  and  cook 
until  consistency  required.  Add  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
grape  or  apple  jelly  with  spices  or  other  flavoring  to 
taste,  and  serve  hot. 

Cream  Sauce. —  Mix  together  two  tablespoonfuls 
each  of  cornstarch  and  sugar.  Add  one  beaten  egg  and 
cook  in  double  boiler  until  thickened.  Add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  flavoring  to  taste. 

Cream  Sauce  a  la  Hotel  Astor. —  Beat  together  one 
cupful  each  sugar  and  butter  until  perfectly  blended.  Add 
cream  until  mixture  is  like  thick  cream,  dust  with  nutmeg 
or  mace  and  serve. 

Delicious  Fruit  Sauce  for  Plum  Pudding.—  Boil  to- 
gether one  cupful  of  water  and  two  of  sugar  for  ten 
minutes.  Thicken  slightly  with  three  level  teaspoonfuls 
arrow  root  or  two  teaspoonfuls  corn  starch  mixed  with 
a  little  cold  water,  simmer  five  minutes,  then  add  a  half 
cupful  candied  cherries,  cut  in  halves  and  a  few  pistache 
nuts  quartered.  Flavor  with  nutmeg  or  vanilla  as  pre- 
ferred. 

Hard  Sauce  for  Plum  Pudding.— Beat  one  cupful 
of  butter  to  a  cream.  Add  sugar  gradually,  two  cupfuls 
in  all,  beating  until  very  light.  Add  the  whites  of  two 


130   STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  dry  foam.     Arrange  on  a  flat  glass 
dish  and  grate  a  little  nutmeg  over  it. 

Molasses  Sauce. — To  make  molasses  sauce,  which  is 
an  excellent  accompaniment  to  a  plain  rice  or  apple 
pudding,  mix  together  one  cupful  of  molasses,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  or  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Boil  ten 
minutes. 


MENUS  AND  INDEXES 


CHAPTER   XXII. 
PAPER  BAG  MENUS  FOR  WINTER. 

BREAKFAST  NO.  1. 

Grapefruit 

Cereal 

Sweetbreads  with  Bacon  (Paper-bagged) 

Scones  (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 

BREAKFAST  NO.  2. 

Oranges 

Cereal 

Spindled  Oysters  with  Bacon  (Paper-bagged) 

Water  Cress 

Warmed  over  Rolls  (Paper-bagged) 
Coffee. 

BREAKFAST  NO.  3. 

Baked  Apples  (Paper-bagged) 

Beefsteak  Leftovers  (Paper-bagged) 

Sweet  Potatoes  Southern  Style   (in  paper-bag) 

Scones  (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 
133 


STANDARD    PAPER,   BAG   COOKERY 


LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  1. 

Chicken  Croquettes  (Bagged) 
Olives  Pickles 

Hot  Biscuit  (Bagged) 

Gingerbread  (Bagged) 
Cheese 

Tea. 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  2. 

Pyster  Bundles  (Bagged) 

Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Celery  Olives 

Pork  Cake  (Bagged) 

Baked  Quinces  (Bagged) 
Cocoa. 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  3. 

Mock  Fried  Oysters  (Bagged) 

Pickles  Celery 

Sally  Lunn  (Bagged) 

Sponge  Cake  (Bagged) 

Baked  Apples 
Tea. 


STANDARD    PAPER   BAG   COOKERY     135 

DINNER  NO.  1. 

Grapefruit  with  Maraschino  Cherries 
Olives  Pickles 

Smelts  Milanaise  (Bagged) 
Roast  Chicken  (Bagged)  Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Currant  or  Cranberry  Jelly  (Bagged) 

Baked  Onions  (Bagged)  Lettuce  Salad 

Plum  Pudding  (Bagged)         Hard  Sauce 

Demi-Tasse. 

DINNER  NO.  2. 

Grilled  Sardines  on  Crackers   (Bagged) 
Ripe  Olives        Celery        Salted  Almonds  (Cooked  in  Bag) 

Ducks  (Roasted  in  Bag) 
Candied  Sweet  Potatoes  Southern  Style  (in  Bag) 

Cranberry  Molds,  Biscuit  (Bagged) 
Baked  Apples  Stuffed  with  Nuts  (Bagged) 

Served  with  Cream 
Gingerbread  (Bagged) 
Tea. 

DINNER  NO.  3. 

Anchovy  Canapes   (Bagged)' 
Olives  Celery; 

Roast  Veal  (Bagged) 

Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Spinach  (Paper  Bagged)] 

Endive  and  Roquefort  Cheese  Salad 

Cheese  Straws  (Paper-bagged) 

Mince  Pie  (Paper  Bagged) 

Black  Coffee. 


136      STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 
PAPER  BAG  MENUS  FOR  SPRING. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  1. 

Baked  Rhubarb  and  Raisins  (Paper-bagged) 

Cereal 

Omelette  (Paper-bagged) 

Crisped  Sweet  Potatoes  (Paper-bagged) 

Rolls  (Reheated  in  bag) 

Coffee. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  2. 

Strawberries  au  Naturel 

Cereal 

Eggs  in  Cocottes  (Paper-bagged) 

Scones  (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  3. 

Baked  Prunes  (Paper-bagged) 

Cereal 

Sweetbreads  (Bagged)  Water  Cress 

Baking  Powder  Biscuit  (Bagged) 

Coffee. 


STANDARD    PAPER    BAG   COOKERY     137 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  1. 

Bhubarb  Short  Cake  (Paper-bagged) 

Cold  Veal  Loaf  (Paper-bagged) 

Chocolate  Cake  (Bagged) 

Tea. 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  2. 
Crab  Meat  au  Gratin  (Paper-bagged) 

Biscuit  (Paper-bagged) 

Mrs.  Kelder's  Loaf  Cake  (Bagged) 

Strawberries 

Cocoa. 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  3. 

Chicken  Croquettes  (Paper-bagged) 

Biscuit  (Bagged) 
Pickles  Olives 

Good  Friday  Cake  (Paper-bagged) 

Custard 

Tea. 


138      STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

DINNER  NO.  1. 

Caviare  Canapes  (Bagged) 
Salted  Nuts  (Bagged)  Olives 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb  (Bagged)         Mint  Sauce 
Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Stuffed  Baked  Onions  (Bagged) 
Rhubarb  Pie  (Bagged) 
Coffee. 


DINNER  NO.  2. 

Bouchees  of  Sardines  (Bagged) 

Deviled  Almonds  (Bagged)  Radishes 

Breast  of  Lamb  with  Tomato  Sauce  (Bagged) 

Parsnips  (Bagged) 
Baked  Potatoes  without  their  Jackets  (Bagged) 

Lettuce  Salad 

Rhubarb  Short  Cake  (Bagged) 
Black  Coffee. 


DINNER  NO.  3. 

Strawberries  au  Naturel  on  Orange  Slices 
Mussels  au  Gratin  (Bagged) 

Irish  Stew  (Bagged) 

Scalloped  Tomatoes  (Bagged) 
Lettuce  Salad 
Lemon  Pie 
Coffee. 


STANDARD   PAPER'  BAG  COOKERY    139 


PAPER  BAG  MENUS  FOR  SUMMER. 

BREAKFAST  NO.  1. 

Raspberries 

Cereal 

Creamed  Mushrooms  (Bagged) 

Toast  (Bagged) 

Coffee. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  2. 

Blackberries  with  Cream 

Moulded  Cereal 

Crisped  Bacon  and  Liver  (Bagged) 

Bolls  (Bagged)  Radishes 

Coffee. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  3. 

Canteloupe 
Moulded  Farina 

Corn  Fritters  (Bagged) 

Baked  Egg  in  Tomato  Cases  (Bagged) 

Scones  (Bagged) 

Coffee. 


140      STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  1. 

Peach  Puree 
Potato  Salad 

Veal  Loaf  (Bag-cooked) 

Raspberry  Short  Cake  (Bag-cooked)  with  Cream 
Iced  Tea. 


LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  2. 

Cold  Game  Pie  (Cooked  in  Bag) 

Hot  Biscuit  (Cooked  in  Bag) 

Oatmeal  Crisps  (Cooked  in  Bag) 

Blackberries 

Iced  Tea. 


LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  3. 

Stuffed  Tomatoes  with  Cream  (Bag-cooked) 

Baked  Lamb,  Sweetbreads  (Bag-cooked) 

Bread  and  Butter 

Lettuce  Salad 

Raspberries  Potato  Caramel  Cake  (Bag-cooked) 

Iced  Tea. 


STANDARD    PAPER   BAG   COOKERY     141 

DINNER  NO.  1. 

Canteloupes 
Radishes  Olives 

Lamb  Chops  (Bagged)    Mint  Jelly 
Green  Peas  (Bagged) 

String  Bean  Salad 
Lemon  Ice 

DINNER  NO.  2. 
Sardines  and  Lemon 
Olives  Radishes 

Saute  of  Chicken  with  Mushrooms  (Bagged) 

Sweet  Potatoes  en  Brochette  (Paper-hagged) 

Sliced  Tomatoes  with  French  Dressing 

Fruit  Syllabub 

Potato  Chocolate  Cake  (Baked  in  Bag) 
Iced  Tea. 

DINNER  NO.  3. 

Watermelon 

Roast  Lamb  (Paper-bagged)         Mint  Sauce,  Currant  Jelly 
New  Potatoes  (Bagged)  Parsley  Sauce 

Oriental  String  Beans  (Paper-bagged) 
Cucumbers  (Dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar) 

Neufchatel  Cheese  and  Wafers 

Lemon  Ice  Chocolate  Wafers  (Bag-cooked) 

Iced  Tea  with  Lemon. 


142      STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 


PAPER  BAG  MENUS  FOR  AUTUMN. 

BREAKFAST  NO.  1. 

Peaches  and  Cream 

Cereal 

Fried  Tomatoes   (Paper-bagged)   Cream  Gravy 

Blueberry  Biscuit  (Paper-bagged) 

Coffee. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  2. 

Baked  Apples  (Bagged-cooked)  with  Cream 

Cereal 
Eggs  Baked  in  Tomatoes  (Paper-bagged) 

Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 
Biscuit  (Bagged) 
Coffee. 


BREAKFAST  NO.  3. 

Canteloupe 
Ham  with  Apples  (Bagged) 

Sweet  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Corn  Meal  Gems  (Bag-cooked) 

Coffee. 


STANDARD  PAPEBS  BAG  COOKERY  143 

LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  1. 

Cold  Roast  Chicken  (Paper-Lagged) 
Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Tomatoes  with  Mayonnaise 

Bread  and  Butter  Folds 

Baked  Sweet  Apples  with  Cream  (Bagged),1 

Chocolate  Cake  (Bagged), 

Tea. 


LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  2. 

Corn  Patties  (Bagged) 

Scalloped  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Olives  Pickles 

Farmer's  Fruit  Cake  (Bagged) 

Baked  Quinces 

Tea. 


LUNCHEON  OR  SUPPER  NO.  3. 

Baked  Potatoes  en  Surprise  (Bagged); 
Chicken  Croquettes  (Paper-bagged) 

Sliced  Tomatoes  with  French  Dressing 
Baked  Apples  with  Nuts  (Bagged), 
Gingerbread  (Bagged) 
Tea. 


144     STANDARD    PAPER    BAG    COOKERY 

DINNER  MENU  NO.  1. 

Canteloupe 

•Caviare  Canapes  (Cooked  in  Bag) 
Sauer  Braten  with  Carrots  and  Onions  (Bagged) 
Baked  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Lima  Beans  (Bagged) 

Sliced  Tomatoes 

Peach  Short  Cake  (Paper-bagged) 
Coffee. 

DINNER  MENU  NO.  2. 
Caviare  Canape's  (Cooked  in  Bag) 
Deviled  Chestnuts  (Paper-bagged) 
Roast  Pork  (Bagged) 

Sweet  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Baked  Egg  Plant  (Bagged) 
Cucumbers 

Apple  Pie  (Paper-bagged)  with  Cream  Cheese 
Coffee. 

DINNER  MENU  NO.  3. 

Grapes  and  Peaches 

Cream  of  Chestnut  Soup  with  Croutons  (Cooked  in  Bag) 
Roast  Duck  (Bagged)  Spiced  Grapes 
Sweet  Potatoes  (Bagged) 

Baked  Tomatoes  (Bagged) 
Grape  Pie  (Baked  in  Bag) 
Coffee. 


CHAPTER   XXIII 

A  FEW  OF  THE  EASIEST  DISHES  FOR 
BEGINNERS 

Baked  Potatoes  in  their  Jackets Page  96 

Baked  Potatoes  without  Jackets "  96 

Bacon  and  Apples 70 

Sausage  and  Apples "  72 

Bacon  and  Bananas 70 

Sausage  with  Tomatoes "  73 

Roast  Loin  of  Pork "  72 

Hot  Cheese  Canapes "  20 

Caviare  Canapes "  20 

Cheese  and  Cracker  Canapes 20 

Cracker  Crisps "  21 

Roast   Clams "  26 

Lobster  in  Shells "  29 

Baked  Blue  Fish "  31 

Filets  of  Flounder "  34 

Lamb  Chops "  67 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb "  69 

Roast   Chicken "  50 

Vealettes   "  76 

Baked  Onions "  94 

Sweet  Potatoes  and  Bacon "  97 

Spinach   "  98 

Peas "  94 

145 


146  STANDARD  PAPER  BAG  COOKERY 

Turnips    "  99 

Baking  Powder  Biscuits "  101 

Baked  Apples "  112 

Cinnamon  Apples 113 

Apple  Dumplings "  112 

Baked  Pears "  115 

Mrs.  Kelder's  Loaf  Cake "  107 

Oatmeal  Cakes "  109 

Pork  Cake "  109 

Mince  Turnovers "  122 

Individual  Apple  Tart "  12Q 


INDEX 


APPETIZERS  AND  RELISHES:  PAGE 

Bouchee  Cases    18 

Bonne    Bouchee    19 

Bouchees  of  Caviare,  Olives  and  Mayonnaise 19 

Bouchees    of    Sardines 19 

Bouchees   of   Sausage   or   Tongue 19 

Canape's,   The  Making  of 19 

[Anchovy   Canape's    20 

Caviare   Canape's    20 

Hot  Cheese  Canape's 20 

Cheese  and  Crackers  Canape's 20 

Cheese   Toast   Sandwiches 20 

Cracker  Crisps  21 

Deviled    Crackers    21 

Diables   &    Cheval 21 

Nut    Appetizers     21 

Salted  Almonds    21 

Deviled  Almonds    22 

Roasted    Chestnuts    22 

Salted    Chestnuts    22 

Deviled  Chestnuts  22 


BEEF: 


Bullock's    Heart    61 

Stewed    Bullock's    Heart 61 

Filet   of   Beef 61 

Hamburg  Steak    62 

Pot  Roast    6 

Rib  Roast  of  Beef 63 

147 


148  INDEX 

Roast  Round  of  Beef  in  Paper  Bag 64 

Sauer  Braten    64 

Beef  Steak  65 

Toledo    Beef    Steak 65 

Stuffed  Koast  Beef  or  "Mock  Duck" 65 

CAKES: 

Cheese  Cakes    104 

Cinnamon    Cake    105 

English   Fairy   Cakes 105 

Fruit    Cookies    106 

Mrs.  Godfrey's  Soft  Ginger  Bread 106 

Good   Friday   Cake 106 

German   Honey    Cakes 107 

Pecan   Kisses    107 

Mrs.   Kelder's  Loaf  Cake 107 

Hickory  Nut  Macaroons 108 

Walnut  Macaroons    108 

Maple  Sugar   Cake 108 

Molasses    Coffee    Cake 108 

Nut   Cake    108 

Oatmeal    Cakes    109 

German   Peach   Cake    109 

Pork   Cake    109 

Potato   Chocolate   Cake 110 

Potato    Caramel    Cake 110 

Auburn    Pound    Cake Ill 

Raisin   Nut    Cake Ill 

Sour  Cream  Cake Ill 

CHEESE  AND  EGG  DISHES: 

Cheese  Balls  with  Tomato  Sauce 87 

Cheese  Fritters  to  Serve  with  Salad  Course 87 

Pepper    Cheese    87 

Cheese    Ramekins    88 

Cheese    and    Eggs 88 

Baked   Eggs    88 

Baked  Eggs  with  Cheese 88 

A  Paper  Bag  Omelette 88 

Cheese  Omelette  89 

Swiss    Eggs    89 

Eggs   in   Tomato   Cups 89 


INDEX  149 

FISH  [(also  see  Shell  Fish);: 

Filet  of  Bass 31 

Baked    Blue    Fish 31 

Bloaters,  A  Breakfast  Dish  of 31 

Cat    Fish    32 

Codfish    Cones    32 

Codfish  a  la  Creme 32 

Eels,    Paper    Bagged 33 

Flounder    a    la    Meunie"re 33 

Filets  of  Flounder 34 

Finnan   Haddie    34 

Fish    Cakes    34 

New  England  Fish  Pie 35 

Fish   Souffle* 35 

Planked  -Fish  Bag  Cooked 36 

Halibut  a  la  Poulette 37 

Herring    au    Gratin 37 

Herrings    with    Herbs 37 

Kedgeree   37 

Kippered  Mackerel  with  Fine  Herbs 38 

Salmon   Loaf    38 

Scalloped   Salmon    38 

Salmon  Souffle*   39 

Baked   Shad    39 

Shad   Roe    39 

Smelts    40 

Bagged  Weak  Fish 40 

White    Fish   Planked 41 

FISH  SAUCE    (also  see  Sauces  and  Gravies) : 

Anchovy   Sauce    42 

Quick   Bearnaise   Sauce 42 

Bearnaise    Sauce    42 

Brown   Sauce    43 

Curry    Sauce    43 

Egg   Sauce    43 

Sauce   Hollandaise    43 

Egg  Sauce  Made  from  the  Hollandaise 44 

Lobster   Sauce    44 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter 44 


150  INDEX 

Sauce  for  Broiled  Shad  a  la  Murray 45 

Parsley   Butter    45 

Sauce   Tartare    45 

FRUITS: 

Baked    Apples    112 

Baked  Apple  Dumplings 112 

Cold  Baked  Apples  with  Rum 112 

Cinnamon   Apples    113 

Apples  Stuffed  with  Figs 113 

Baked  Apples  and  Nuts 113 

Raisin   Apples    114 

Baked    Apple    Sauce 114 

Baked    Bananas     114 

Stuffed  Dates   114 

Baked    Gooseberries    114 

Baked    Peaches    114 

Baked    Pears    115 

Baked    Plums    115 

Baked    Quinces    115 

Baked    Raisins    115 

Chestnut    Patties    115 

GAME  [(see  Poultry  and  Game) : 
LAMB  AND  MUTTON: 

Breast  of  Lamb  with  Tomato  Sauce 67 

Lamb    Chops    67 

Lamb  or  Mutton  Cutlets  with  Tomatoes 67 

Lamb    Fry    68 

Lamb's   Kidney    68 

Leg  of  Mutton  Cooked  in  Cider 68 

Mutton  Chops  and  Sausage 68 

Ragout    of    Lamb 68 

Roast  Leg  of  Lamb 69 

A  Genuine  Irish  Stew 69 

PASTRY: 

Plain   Pie   Crust 116 

Apple  Pie  117 


INDEX  151 

Deep  Apple  Pie  with  Cream  Cheese 117 

Cranberry   Pie    Hg 

Cranberry  and  Raisin  Pie 118 

Lemon   Pie    118 

Mince  Pie    118 

Mock  Mince  Pie  119 

Pecan  Pie  with  One  Crust 119 

Real  Old-Fashioned  Pumpkin  Pie 119 

Individual  English  Apple  Tart 120 

Colonial  Pumpkin  Tartlets 121 

Apple  and  Cheese  Turnovers 121 

Apricot  or  Plum  Jam  Turnovers 122 

Mince  Turnovers • 122 

PORK  IN  VARIED  FORMS: 

Bacon   and   Apples 70 

Bacon    and    Bananas 70 

Bacon  and  Calf's  Liver 70 

Baked    Pork    Chops 70 

Pork  Chops  and  Sweet  Potatoes 70 

Ham  and  Scalloped  Potatoes 71 

Ham,  Spinach  and  Lamb  Chops 71 

Stuffed  Fresh  Ham  or  Shoulder 72 

Roast  Loin  of  Pork 72 

Roast   Spare-Rib    72 

Baked    Sausage    with    Apples 72 

Baked    Sausage    and    Potato 72 

Baked   Sausage  with  Toast 73 

Baked   Sausage    with    Tomatoes 73 

Tenderloin  of  Pork 73 

POULTRY  AND  GAME: 

Capon    , 47 

Chicken  with   Parsnips 48 

Chicken  d.   la  Balitmore 48 

Chicken    Croquettes    48 

Paper  Bagged  Chicken 49 

Chicken   Pie    49 

Paste   for    Chicken   Pie 50 

Chicken    Rissoles    50 


152  INDEX 

Roast  Chicken   50 

Saute  of  Chicken  with  Mushrooms   50 

Smothered    Chicken    51 

Ducks    with    Banana    Dressing 51 

Canvas    Backs    51 

Chicken,  Italian  Style 52 

Roast   Wild  Duck 52 

Roast  Wild  Duck,  Ohio  Style 53 

Frogs'    Legs    53 

Paper  Bag  Roast  Goose 53 

Sage    and    Potato    Stuffing 54 

Roasted  Young  Guinea  Fowl 54 

Broiled  Young  Guinea  Hen 55 

Quail     55 

•Stuffed    Quail    56 

Rabbit    Cookery     56 

Barbecued    Rabbit    56 

Roast    Rabbit     57 

Stewed    Rabbit     57 

Reed  Birds 58 

Squab      58 

Barbecued  Squirrel,    (Southern  Style) 58 

Turkey    £    la   Bonham 59 

Venison    60 

Venison    Steak     60 

PUDDINGS  AND  PUDDING  SAUCEES: 

'Almond    Pudding    125 

Apple  and  Fig  Pudding 125 

Banana    Pudding     125 

Farmer's  Plum  Pudding 126 

Peach    Betty    126 

Peach   Cobbler    126 

Peach   Roly-Poly    127 

Plum    Roly-Poly    127 

Rye   Bread  Pudding 127 

Tapioca    Apple    Pudding 128 

A  White  Plum  Pudding 128 

Caramel    Sauce    1 28 

Cornstarch  Pudding  Sauce    129 

Cream  Sauce 129 


INDEX  153 

Cream  Sauce  &  la  Hotel  Astor 129 

Delicious  Fruit  Sauce  for  Plum  Pudding 129 

Hard  Sauce  for  Plum  Pudding 129 

Molasses  Sauce 130 

RECOOKED  DISHES: 

Beef  Steak  Left  Overs 83 

Chicken    Croquettes     83 

Mock  Fried  Oysters 84 

Turkey    Croquettes    84 

Edinboro  Hot  Pot 84 

Individual  Meat  Pies 85 

English    Pasties     85 

Olla    Podrida    Pie 85 

Oyster  Bundles    86 

SAUCES  AND  GRAVIES: 

Bignon's   Sauce    78 

Bread    Sauce    78 

Brown    Sauce    78 

Celery    Sauce    79 

Currant  Jelly  Sauce 79 

Curry    Sauce    79 

Hollandaise    Sauce 79 

Horseradish    Sauce    80 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter 80 

Mexican    Sauce    80 

Mint    Sauce   for    Roast   Lamb 80 

French  Mustard  Sauce,  Creole  Style 81 

Mustard  Sauce  for  Cold  Meat 81 

Onion    Sauce    81 

Spanish  Sauce   81 

Thick  Tomato  Sauce 82 

Sauce   Tartare    82 

SHELL  FISH: 

Clam    Pies    26 

Roast    Clams    26 

Crabs,  Soft  and  Hard 26 


154  INDEX 

Creamed   Crabs 27 

Crabs  Deviled  a  la  William  Penn 27 

Crab  Meat  au  Gratin 27 

Crab  Flakes  au  Gratin 28 

Lobster   Chops    28 

Coquilles  of  Lobster 28 

Lobster   in   Shells 29 

Mussels   au   Gratin 29 

Boxed  Oysters   (Virginia  Style) 29 

Spindled  Oysters  and  Bacon 30 

SHORT  CAKES: 

Banana   Short   Cakes 123 

Peach  Short  Cake 123 

Rhubarb  Short  Cake  124 

Old-Fashioned  Strawberry  Short  Cake 124 

SOUP  ACCESSORIES: 

Bread  Sticks   23 

Croutons   Toasted    23 

Crisped  Crackers    23 

Egg  Balls    23 

Forcemeat  Balls,  or  Quenelles 24 

VEAL: 

Baked  Calf's  Liver   74 

Calves'  Brains  in  Tempting  but  Inexpensive  Ways..  74 

Breaded  Brains    74 

Sweetbreads     75 

Baked  Sweetbreads    75 

Sweetbreads  with  Bacon 75 

Larded  Sweetbreads   75 

Sweetbreads  Straight    76 

Vealettes    76 

Veal  Loaf    76 

Shoulder  of  Veal  Stuffed  and  Braised 77 

VEGETABLES: 

Asparagus     , 90 


INDEX  155 

Asparagus  with  Cheese 90 

Lima  Beans 90 

String  Beans,  Oriental  Style 91 

Boston  Baked  Bean  Cakes 91 

Bean   Croquettes    91 

German    Cabbage    92 

Cabbage  Hot   Slaw 92 

Carrots    92 

Carrot   Saute    92 

Dolmas     99 

Stuffed    Eggplant    93 

Lentil    Cutlets    93 

Mushrooms    93 

Baked    Onions    94 

Stuffed    Baked    Onions 94 

Onions   with   Cheese 94 

Parsnips     94 

Green  Peas   94 

Stuffed    Peppers 95 

Peppers  with   Cream  Fish 96 

Baked  Irish  Potatoes 96 

Baked  Potatoes  without  their  Coats  or  Jackets 96 

Potatoes  en  Surprise 96 

Potatoes    Farci    97 

Sauer    Kraut 97 

\V  aldrof   Sauer  Kraut 97 

Sweet  Potatoes  and  Bacon 97 

Sweet  Potato  Straws 98 

Sweet  Potato  en  Brochette 98 

Spinach     98 

Summer  Squash  in  Butter 9 

Stuffed  Summer  Squash    9 

Stuffed  Tomatoes  with  Cream 9 

Turnips    9 

Turnip    Balls    9 

Stuffed  Vine  Leaves  or  Dolmas 99 

WARM  BREADS,  BISCUITS,  MUFFINS,  ETC.: 

Baking  Powder  Bread 1° 

Bannocks    101 

Baking  Powder  Biscuits 101 


156  INDEX 

Egg   Biscuits    102 

Maple    Biscuits    102 

Nut   Biscuits    102 

Raisin   Biscuits    103 

Hot   Cross   Buns 103 

.Warmed   Over   Breads ^ 103 


/FIND  THE 
1EW  COOKERY 
111  EASY 

\  i/  you    us.e   onlif 

CONTINENTAL 
*        COOKERY  BAGS 


MADE  expressly 
for  Paper  Bag 
Cooking. 

The  perfected  prod- 
uct of  much  invest- 
igation and  many 
experiments. 


/CONTINENTAL  Cookery  Bags  are  White, 
^  Sanitary,  Strong,  Waterproof,  Grease- 
proof and  entirely  Odorless.  In  every  way 
they  are  Safe  and  Suitable. 

Packages  of  30  Bags,  Conveniently  Assorted, 
with  Special  Clips  and  Book  of  Directions  and 
Recipes,  25c.  A  variety  of  sizes  at  the  same 
price  per  package. 

CONTINENTAL  PAPER  BAG  CO. 
WHITEHALL   BUILDING,    NEW  YORK 


OVAL   WOOD 
Cookery  Dishes 


Should 
be 

Used  in 
All 
Paper 


Cooking 

They  are  as  Important  as  the  Bags 

Because  they  conserve  all  the  delicate  meat  and  vege- 
table juices,  adding  a  savory  flavor  to  everything  cooked 
in  them. 

With  our  Cookery  Dishes  you  can  give  to  all  meats  the 
delicious  taste  which  has  heretofore  been  secured  only  by 
planking  steaks  and  fish. 

The  sweet  wood — we  use  sugar-maple  only — is  always 
fresh,  giving  an  effect  that  cannot  be  maintained  perma- 
nently by  the  ordinary  plank. 

Everything  that  can  be  cooked  in   a   paper  bag  tastes 
better  if  you  use  our  Cookery  Dishes  also. 
ASK    YOUR    DEALER    ABOUT    THEM 
They  are  packed  in  cartons  suitable  for  all  purposes,  assuring  the  de- 
livery of  clean  and  sanitary  dishes  in  your  kitchen. 

THE  OVAL  WOOD  DISH  COMPANY 

Delta,  Ohio 

127  Franklin  St.,  New  York  436  Gravier  St.,  New  Orleaw 

Manufacturers  of  "O.W.D."  Butter  Dishes,  Picnic  Plato,  and  Clothes  Pins 


Refined 
Vegetable  Oil 

Is  recommended  by  physicians  and  culinary  ex- 
perts in  place  of  butter  and  animal  fats  for  all 
cooking;  it  is  more  healthful  and  economical. 

Wesson  Snowdrift  Oil 

The    Best    Refined    Vegetable    Oil 

Is     Unexcelled    for 
Greasing  Paper  Bags 


Y'OU  can  buy  many  different  kinds  of 
*  vegetable  oils,  but  you  can't  get  any- 
thing equal  to  Wesson  Snowdrift  Oil.  It 
is  refined  by  the  Wesson  process  (the 
only  process  yet  discovered  for  properly 
refining  vegetable  oils)  and  we  control 
that  process.  No  other  manufacturer  can 
use  it.  <|  Wesson  Snowdrift  Oil  has  just 
the  right  smoothness  and  consistency  to 
make  rich  and  delicious  salad  dressings. 

AT  ALL  GROCERS 

On  request,  we  will  mail  you  our  Wesson 
Snowdrift  Oil  book  of  150  recipes. 
Please  mention  your  grocer's  name. 

The    Southern  Cotton  Oil  Company 

Dept.  B 

24  'Broad  Street,   New  York,  N.  T. 

Savannah       Chicago       New  Orleans 
San  Francisco 


This  illustration  shows  a  bag 
properly  closed  ivitb  clips. 


The  Cookery  Bag  Clip 

is  the  only  successful  device  for 
effectually  closing  Paper  Cookery  Bags 


The  projecting  lips  permit  the  clips  to  slip  on  to 
the  bags  easily;  the  free  ends  projecting  outwardly 
prevent  the  clips  slipping  off  the  bag  when  in  use. 

Made  by 

THE    OAKVILLE    COMPANY 

Waterbury,  Conn. 

Makers  ot  Sovran  Pin  s  and  the  Clinton  and  T>amas  cut 

Safety  Pins. 


RETURN     NATURAL  RESOURCES  LIBRARY 

TO— ^     40  Gianinni  Hall  Tel.  No.  642-4493 


LOAN  PERIOD    1 
7  DAYS 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

ALL  BOOKS  MAY  BE  RECALLED  AFTER  7  DAYS 


DUE  AS  STAMPED  BELOW 

~~T 





UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  BERKELEY 
FORM  NO.  DDO,  50m,  1/82  BERKELEY,  CA  94720 


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